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and after you get it dead-flat flush and tested, I would put a few dabs of Bondo around the perimeter to ensure it doesn't move during use. (don't put anything over the heads of the screws).
 

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One other option is this set of four plate levelers from Kreg. See pix. Used to be $20 a set, not sure of current price.

Caution. If your table is dense MDF, you must pre drill for any screws you put in. Drill size should be slightly smaller than the screw, just enough so the threads get a grip but you don't split the material. Same applies to the levelers. I've found you don't need to fasten the plate down, the weight of the router is enough to hold it steady.
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If there are no adjustment screws to jack the plate level with the top surface you can add some similar to this -
View attachment 401360
I've had leveling screws strip out in press-board before on my router table top and I drilled a 3/8" hole where the screw was and inserted a oak dowel with glue. Much better than screws in press board..This is a technique I learned many many years ago for repairing stripped out door hinge screws..
 

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Can someone help with how to get the plate flush with the table? View attachment 401359
Try using 8x32 thread brass inserts. You can probably use the same holes in the MDF that have stripped out, to install the inserts. Rockler sells small packs of all sizes. The ones I use have slots on top, so that a flat screwdriver can be used for a quick install. The insert allows use of any head-choice with a machine screw, as long as the thread is the same as the insert. I use screw heads that allow use of an allen wrench for quick adjustment. The weight of the router will keep the screws from moving. To smoothly install the inserts, I rub a paraffin stick across the outside thread of each insert.
 
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