I had a look at the Charnwood and it doesn't seem too bad, just quite small. One option you would have later is to just drop that table top into a larger top. You'd just need to extend the slots for the track maybe but I don't bother with the tracks. Some members don't care for them and some love them. It's a personal preference thing and that is true about router table features as a whole. I'm on my 6th one I think. I've tried a number of things to see what I like and don't like getting to that point. Some features I'm not fussy about, like the tracks, some can't live without. I've tried t-slots to clamp the fence down and just clamps to hold it in place and I don't have a preference either way for those. I do like my router plate offset towards the back of the table like the Charnwood has, but I also like to be able to work from either side of my table. Some members have the plate offset both front to rear and side to side. Those are things you find out by trying them. Some of my tables only cost me $10 -20 to make. This last one is the most expensive of the lot but it very likely is the final version too.
Router Table Question...
Hi folks. While I've been a long time lurker of these forums I'm really only just getting to grips with a router (Finally :grin
and I'm looking for some advice regarding router tables.
Now, I have been searching through the forums so I know that the first and most common bit of advice will be to make one and at some point, I will no doubt go down that route. Right now however, I have a couple of problems. One is that having never used a router table, I don't really know what I want and what I don't want. To begin with I'll be finishing the wooden parts of some wind chimes I've started making as well as some backing pieces for some ceramic frames my other half is making, but, like I say, I don't really know what I need.
My second problem is that, right now at least, I'm much more comfortable working with metal (Although my current home setup doesn't allow me to build a metal router table unfortunately) and I'm not entirely convinced my current skill levels with wood are going to let me build a table with reasonable accuracy yet so I'm looking at a couple of shop bought tables to get me going.
Now, I've only got around £60 to £70 to spend so the first is the generic cast aluminium table with pressed steel legs and side extensions. Having done some research I gather that the legs and extensions can be a bit flimsy so if I got one of these I would screw the legs down to a base which would help stiffen them and I can also brace the extensions to help stiffen them a bit. The other table I've come across is the Charnwood W012 which looks a bit different with the MDF top and so on. One of my thoughts with this one is that when I do get round to building a table, I would have the option of scavenging parts such as the fence, mitre jig, track and so on to go on to whatever I build.
So, I guess my question is, is the Charnwood worth looking at? I know from research that there are issues with it like there are with the generic metal version but I guess that with the money I have to spend, anything is going to have issues. I don't mind doing a little fettling here and there to fix minor issues but could do without buying a complete lemon in the first place!!
and I'm looking for some advice regarding router tables.Now, I have been searching through the forums so I know that the first and most common bit of advice will be to make one and at some point, I will no doubt go down that route. Right now however, I have a couple of problems. One is that having never used a router table, I don't really know what I want and what I don't want. To begin with I'll be finishing the wooden parts of some wind chimes I've started making as well as some backing pieces for some ceramic frames my other half is making, but, like I say, I don't really know what I need.
My second problem is that, right now at least, I'm much more comfortable working with metal (Although my current home setup doesn't allow me to build a metal router table unfortunately) and I'm not entirely convinced my current skill levels with wood are going to let me build a table with reasonable accuracy yet so I'm looking at a couple of shop bought tables to get me going.
Now, I've only got around £60 to £70 to spend so the first is the generic cast aluminium table with pressed steel legs and side extensions. Having done some research I gather that the legs and extensions can be a bit flimsy so if I got one of these I would screw the legs down to a base which would help stiffen them and I can also brace the extensions to help stiffen them a bit. The other table I've come across is the Charnwood W012 which looks a bit different with the MDF top and so on. One of my thoughts with this one is that when I do get round to building a table, I would have the option of scavenging parts such as the fence, mitre jig, track and so on to go on to whatever I build.
So, I guess my question is, is the Charnwood worth looking at? I know from research that there are issues with it like there are with the generic metal version but I guess that with the money I have to spend, anything is going to have issues. I don't mind doing a little fettling here and there to fix minor issues but could do without buying a complete lemon in the first place!!
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Yeah. I'm like Chuck, start simple, build more, build cheap. I think I'm on my 5th one now, and likely less than $5 in it, because I keep reusing the bolts, which are the only things I buy. Look at my latest, and it looks simple, mainly because it is. Top is 1/2" plywood, supported by a spider web of 2X4 chunks, router plate is 1/2" plywood. This last one is somewhere around 15 years old I think. So, make one, if it doesn't do what you want, make another, don't need a lot of money dumped on it. No lift, because I don't want a lift. Does exactly what I want and need.
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I like the key shaped plate, Theo. K.I.S.S. in pictures!
1" or 3/4" MDF plate cut to size at the wood store for you is the way to go. Nothing is flatter or more precisely squared up for the money. It also cuts and edges very nicely and has a reasonably tough surface that will remain true. Don't let it get wet or damp tho, that may be less than ideal. You could also make the fence from MDF in order to ensure concentricity and flatness.
Phenolic is better and 10x the money, so that's out of the question.
If you go on Woodpecker, Kreg or some of the other nicer brands websites, they have online assembly instructions for their tables, so that will be more than helpful in designing and sizing it. Incra, Jessem, etc. Go on Rockler and Woodcraft websites for the brands and pics etc.
I ended up buying a Woodpecker drill press table, and copying it in half scale in MDF to fit on my 8" table drill press. Easy peasy and lots of fun to build once you get rolling.
I'm not a woodworking guy either (car and car stereo guy) so i suffer from stage fright on here as well.
Phenolic is better and 10x the money, so that's out of the question.
If you go on Woodpecker, Kreg or some of the other nicer brands websites, they have online assembly instructions for their tables, so that will be more than helpful in designing and sizing it. Incra, Jessem, etc. Go on Rockler and Woodcraft websites for the brands and pics etc.
I ended up buying a Woodpecker drill press table, and copying it in half scale in MDF to fit on my 8" table drill press. Easy peasy and lots of fun to build once you get rolling.
I'm not a woodworking guy either (car and car stereo guy) so i suffer from stage fright on here as well.
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Thanks for the replies folks. I guess I am now leaning towards making a basic table :surprise:
I'm a bit wary of using MDF for anything that needs to be stable dimensionally as my work space is in a garage that often gets a bit of a damp floor by the door when it rains (We're in the Peak District in the UK and it rains. A lot) so the possibility of the top shifting is definitely there. I know MDF usually absorbs moisture through the edges so would sealing the edges with paint or varnish be worth doing? Or indeed even varnishing/painting the whole thing?
Also I've been looking at table inserts which I like the idea of. The router I'm getting (This is all part of my 50th birthday) is the Bosch POF 1200 AE so, while looking on Amazon, would the Milue Aluminum Router Table Insert Plate (Sorry, can't post links yet but if you search for that one with those words it will come up) be the sort of thing I'm looking for? Having looked at a few the quality of the machining on the back (At least as far as you can tell from a pic on Amazon) would appear to be reasonably clean and the best I've seen.
Also, if I was to sketch up some plans, would it be okay to post them here and see if I've missed anything blindingly obvious :grin:
I'm a bit wary of using MDF for anything that needs to be stable dimensionally as my work space is in a garage that often gets a bit of a damp floor by the door when it rains (We're in the Peak District in the UK and it rains. A lot
) so the possibility of the top shifting is definitely there. I know MDF usually absorbs moisture through the edges so would sealing the edges with paint or varnish be worth doing? Or indeed even varnishing/painting the whole thing?Also I've been looking at table inserts which I like the idea of. The router I'm getting (This is all part of my 50th birthday) is the Bosch POF 1200 AE so, while looking on Amazon, would the Milue Aluminum Router Table Insert Plate (Sorry, can't post links yet but if you search for that one with those words it will come up) be the sort of thing I'm looking for? Having looked at a few the quality of the machining on the back (At least as far as you can tell from a pic on Amazon) would appear to be reasonably clean and the best I've seen.
Also, if I was to sketch up some plans, would it be okay to post them here and see if I've missed anything blindingly obvious :grin:
Instead of sealing the MDF, try a double layer of plywood, preferably Baltic Birch, Glue and clamp them together using cawls, flat lumber spans the plywood, clamps go on the ends to apply pressure evenly across the plywood. Cut an opening big enough for the base of the router in the second layer, or if you are going to use a metal mounting plate, cut the opening about half an inch inside the shape and size of the plate. You can then use screws through the seond layer to level the plate with the top. Cut the top opening the exact size of the plate, PLUS about the thickness of a playing card more or you'll never get the plate out.
I have attached a couple of images of a fence made from ply that are pretty cool. The first drawing is the offset, but slightly different than the simple double layer because you would cut a rebate or rabbet edge slightly deeper than the thickness of your plate.
The second is a Kreg leveling device you may be able to get over there. Or you can drill throught he second layer and fit a screw up through the bottom. File off the sharp end if you wish. Not expensive here, but easy to install, and you can cut the opening the full size, no lip is needed using it.
Glad you decided to jump in. The most important part of learing woodworking is to make stuff yourself. You'll learn from each project you do.
BTW, get yourself a dust mask when working with power tools. The router throws off a LOT of sawdust and it's not good for you. Take and post a picture of your table when it's done.
I have also posted a pdf of the 18 things I've learned over the past decade that accelerated my learning curve. It's about USA gear, but most of it applies to the UK, just different model numbers and brands.
I have attached a couple of images of a fence made from ply that are pretty cool. The first drawing is the offset, but slightly different than the simple double layer because you would cut a rebate or rabbet edge slightly deeper than the thickness of your plate.
The second is a Kreg leveling device you may be able to get over there. Or you can drill throught he second layer and fit a screw up through the bottom. File off the sharp end if you wish. Not expensive here, but easy to install, and you can cut the opening the full size, no lip is needed using it.
Glad you decided to jump in. The most important part of learing woodworking is to make stuff yourself. You'll learn from each project you do.
BTW, get yourself a dust mask when working with power tools. The router throws off a LOT of sawdust and it's not good for you. Take and post a picture of your table when it's done.
I have also posted a pdf of the 18 things I've learned over the past decade that accelerated my learning curve. It's about USA gear, but most of it applies to the UK, just different model numbers and brands.
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Yeah, I do too, no movement at all. And still not sure how I made it, let alone get it so precise. I think it is because I used three pieces for the top. I made a master of it, and cloned about 5 more plates, and they all fit perfectly, just drop right in.I like the key shaped plate, Theo. K.I.S.S. in pictures!
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