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I have a cast iron router table-saw extension wing, that I dont use, as it a PITA to use, always in the way of the T/S.

View attachment 381013

Sorry about the side way pic.

I was thinking about making one out of MDF approx 685mm x 600mm
The cast iron one is only 685mm X 255mm
My router is a Triton, I have the winder handle kit, a while ago I bought a Incea 7518 router plate.

How would you affix it to the T/S?, the T/S fence brackets are not very long.
 

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Mark,

That is one narrow router extension. I added the Sawstop router table to my saw and because I use the Incra LS Positioner and Wonder Fence it all slides out of the way as long as the collet is below the table. For your situation you'll need to create a table extension either in front of the router or behind it but it will need to be dead level with the table saw tables. If you can mill a board the exact thickness of the cast iron tables you could use a board attached to your table to assure the extension table doesn't sit higher. How to attach the two is dependent of the cast iron table but you would support the extension table with legs.

But somehow I think the question is about installing the plate in the cast iron table and that is impossible to tell from just the picture but a guess would be taking the cast iron router table extension to a machine shop to see if they could cut the opening to the plate size you have. If this is what you're asking I'd look at a different router extension altogether. It would likely be cheaper in the long run and maybe sell the one you have now. From what I can tell from the picture it appears you are limited on the size of router bits you can use with the existing router extension.

Hopefully someone will have a better answer.
 

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You could try extending the existing "L" brackets with angle iron and any additional support requirements...braces underneath to the saw base ?

You could then leave the existing extension where it is and relocate your router and plate to that which you build.
 
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I think you are asking about putting in a plywood table in the opening where the existing iron table is located. The wood table should fill the entire space, so it would be larger.

I suggest you build a table that fits into the space, but is half an inch short, using adjustable bolts in the bottom of each leg to level the table with the saw. Then you should be able to drill and add some screws or bolts. Drill throught he angle irons and into the table to secure it once leveled.

I'd make the top double thickness. Lay the plate where you want it, mark it and cut a hole half an inch smaller than the plate through the top. Fit four pieces of wood as shown, around the plate. Add a playing card extra thickness so the plate is easier to remove. Use double sided tape to hold the boards down, then use a mortising bit with a top bearing to route out a rabbet, using the boards as a pattern.

I would enclose the router with a hinged door to manage some of the sawdust. Stick suggests attaching some tubing to the bottom of the router that draws in filtered air through the router for cooling and to reduce sawdust incursion.

I would add a nice drawer underneath for storage, but also to provide a stiff framework for the lower part of the table. It would add rigidity.

Kreg makes some leveling screw devices that go in the corner of the plate opening so you can level the plate. They are really nice. You can see in the picture that you don't need a rabbet for the plate, but it will prevent the plate and router from falling into the opening. The diagram shows the rabbet, which is slightly deeper than the plate thickness.

If you want to get fancy, you could add T track to the sides, front and fence. T track gives you lots of extra options. I would also make a really nice tall, split fence. Several designs exist for such a glorious fence.
 

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I flipped the picture for you Mark but like it seems all of us are a bit confused about what you want to do. One thing I see about your current setup is that it has you reaching either across the table over the bit to finish routing a piece or over the fence. I would want the fence on the other side of the hole so that I could stand at the end of the table in front of and facing the bit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all your replies, a lot of interesting information there.

What I want to do is either sell or attache the cast iron wing to the L/H side the table.
Sell or get rid of that ghastly fence.
With the fence the other way around I have about 125 mm of table are, also it gets in the way of the saw fence.
 

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Do you really have to have the router mounted in the saw table? You've already alluded to what a pain that can be in each getting in the others way. We have tons of posts on building tables. If you are space challenged then one option is to make a bench top router table. I personally like having a floor model and a bench top. The bench top table is handier when doing small parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Unfortunately this is the only place I can have a router table,
I spent yesterday and all day cleaning still got a little bit to do tomorrow, didnt gain any more space.
 

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Get rid of the fence.

It looks like you have a beissemeir fence or a clone, you can build a perfectly good router table fence off of the back side of that. That way, you don't need to have a second fence on the table. This will mean you have to feed your stock in from the back side of the saw, but it not too big a problem.

You could also look at swapping that wing for the left extension wing of the saw. This would give the option to work from the front of the saw.

If you really want to keep it on the right, you can see that I was able to use stock angle iron to extend the rails for my fence in this project https://www.routerforums.com/shop-s...esemeyer-overarm-blade-guard.html#post1647633
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This will mean you have to feed your stock in from the back side of the saw, but it not too big a problem.

You could also look at swapping that wing for the left extension wing of the saw. This would give the option to work from the front of the saw.
Is this because of the direction the the router is rotating?

I like your dust collection guard set, you were lucky to get that.
I dont use my guard as it is a poorly made piece of crap.
 

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Yep. You always (99.44% of the time) want to feed into the rotation of the cutter, so the fence is on the right hand side as you are facing the table.

The guard is a blessing and a curse, sometimes it gets in the way, but that's kind of what it is supposed to do!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for your reply Chuck, after a lot of searching and looking up prices for parts needed. I cheated and bought a ready made 685 x 600 table top.
Living in the middle of Aust, it very hard to get any metal/woodworking gear. If some one by some miracle does have what you need, you will be charged at solid gold prices.

I have been thinking of attaching it to the saw table by a hinge, so I can fold it down when not in use.
It would have a couple of legs to support the outside edge when it is used.

https://www.google.com/url?client=i...FjABegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw0ikKYwcu8a-XiK1618Utrq

C5237 Piano hinge galv 76 X 1.6 X 2160mm is the hinged I was looking at.

Good idea or bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bit of an update, and more question's.
I bought the table top from the Incra distributor here in Australia, after he stuffed up my order then sent the wrong one, I am not very happy with them.
It is bolted to the table with 10 mm bolts and to the router wing with 14 g X 100mm bugle head screws.
396210


Haven’t got a timber long enough, so made these up temporary, will put leg stoppers on the bottom of the legs, will add braces later.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had bought an Incra 7518 router plate earlier, of course no instructions with it.:mad:
According to Incra website they dont make any phenolic 7518 router plates any more.
Looking at Incra and Infinity tools website I found these instructions.
396212


This cam lock is supposed to lock the plate into the table right?
I have a 0.53 mm gap between the cam and the table.
There is nearly 1.5 mm gap between the edges of the plate and table.
How do I lock it down?
 

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