Router table switch

I got the Powertec and it was a dud. I tried contacting Powertec twice to see if there was something I could do with it and they wouldn't even return my email to tell me to piss off. I tried every possible combination to make it work and even finally took it apart to see if something could be done. It would energize the circuit as long as I held the paddle down but would stop as soon as I released it. The magnet that was supposed to hold it down wasn't working. I'm not alone, reviews indicate that there is a small but predictable failure rate. Amazon refunded the money for the switch but not the $7-8 shipping charges. I recommend you buy one where you can walk in and return it for that reason.

As for a switch and where to mount it I went to a standard light switch in a dust proof enclosure, i.e. a plastic electrical box and that special cover. I mounted it on top of the plenum I built in my fence for dust control. Since I like to work from both sides of my table it couldn't be mounted on one side under the table. Since mounting it on the fence I've decided that I will never again mount one anywhere else. In my opinion this is the best and safest place you can put it.

I considered that Tom but if you need both hands on the work then I figured I'm probably doing something I shouldn't or doing it a way I shouldn't. I don't trap boards which is one of those circumstances and the other that comes to mind is dropping a board on a spinning bit to make stopped cuts which is another practice I avoid even though lots of guys do it and say they do it successfully. It just seems too dangerous to me and stopped cuts can be accomplished with a handheld plunge router instead and there is virtually no risk that way.

So if you eliminate all those type operations then every other type allows you to move the piece away from the bit or up off the bit (as in grooves). I have used knee switches on other tools, my Unisaw has one for example, and I find myself searching for it sometimes as it isn't where I expected it. On any tool you use where you move in relation to it as you are using it there is always that possibility that it may not be exactly where you think it is. I can see the switch on my fence so I know exactly where to aim for and it takes less than a second to hit it.

Mine came from Rockler...several years ago.

My choice is none of the above. My switch is a foot switch from Harbor Freight. Step on it, you have power. Step off, power shuts off. No getting startled, jumping back, machine still running, then have to move to shut it off. Get startled, when you move back, your foot comes off the switch, power shuts down. Priced at $13.99 now. They also have a model you step on to turn power on, then step on again to turn power off - personally I would not use one of this model.

Cabbie41 said:

I've read that the Triton routers have a "Euro-style" start switch that is not compatible with an external "On/Off' switch--any truth to that--or is it just another Internet myth?? Is it possible to lock the Triton in the "On" position so that it is totally controlled by the external paddle switch??
Cabbie

Click to expand...

Triton works with an external switch okay, as you can see from my setup. If it is the TRA001 you must first lock the Triton on/off switch to on and then use you external switch. You will need to turn the switch off at the Triton when you want to change bits or the self locking mechanism will not work.