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Router Table

2268 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Lee Brubaker
I recently ordered a P.C. 2 1/4hp router 894pk model and I'm anxiously awaiting it. I also purchased some vertical raised panel bits as I intend to make some kitchen cabinet doors and closet doors. Some of the panels may be large which I suspect may be a bit technical to maneuver. Do you guys have any suggestions on how build my router table?
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There is information about building a horizontal router table somewhere on this forum. This type of table used with vertical panel raising bits is by far the easiest way to create large panels. Your router is mounted to a piece of plywood and a pivot hole is drilled on the left side. With a bolt or wood screw acting as your pivot point you make an additional hole on the right side and elongate it by allowing the panel to swing. This arc is for your height adjustment. You mount a vertical panel raising bit and set your height so your wood passes under the bit. The plywood acts as a fence, this set up can be bolted to the end of a work bench. If you use this method you will want to screw a piece of 1 x 2" above the bit to act as a safety device. This design is strictly for edge treatments.

The one I recommend is the
Industrio Phenolic Routertop with Insert
for 99.oo bucks

It's true that it will not come with a fence but that's no big deal because you can make one quick and easy or use the Oak-Park fence setup,plus you can use the fixtures that Oak-Park sells.
Because the top is the key to any router table this one is great,the base cabinet is a easy one to make also.
The top is big and you can use it from the front side or the back side of the table top.
When you make your cabinet you can make it the same as or work bench or table saw in that way when you need to make big panels you can use them to help support the stock.

Note**** If you buy one besure to buy two offset wrenchs for your PC router in the way you can change the bit from the top side and use any of the big panel cutters on the market today (up to 3 5/8" dia.)
Plus you can get for FREE a video, how to use the table and how to make one.

I just made a new router table with this top and it's the best one I have made so far.
Not blow my own horn but it's great :)
I took Bob and Rick to heart and said OK ,make it simple and I did.
I used the box joint fixture from Oak-Park last week on it and it was duck soup to setup on the new top, it comes with a tee track on one side that worked great for the fixture,two t-nuts and two holes in the top and a new hole in the fixture for the bit it was set.... :)
I used the standard T-Nuts and removed the sharp points on them and took a bit off the side of the T-Nuts and they where set to side in the slot.

The 1/4-20 T-Nut has a outside dia. of a ( N ) drill bit,I drilled the fixture out on one end to let the T-Nut pop in the hole and it's the same size as the T track.worked out great for the box joint fixture.
The box joint fixture is one of the best fixtures Oak-Park sells ,I use it all the time with the 3/8" and 1/2" carb bits to make drawers and unlike the dovetail type it's quick and easy to make them. (takes about 5 mins. per. drawer,when you clamp them up as a pair and make the cuts)

Bj ;)
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If your going to build a horizontal router table.....make a decent one because not only will it handle verical panel raiser bits, but will also function as an edge jointer, simplifies sliding dovetails, make nifty blind dovetails for joining table legs & rails, machining breadboard table ends, & on & on. A good table can be made in a weekend. A good plan is available in a book by Bill Hylton "Woodworking with the Router".

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