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Discussion Starter #1
Hi:

New to the forum. I would like to make a small router table. Which would be better, 1 inch baltic birch or 1 inch MDF? I would cover with laminate. With laminate, is the non-flamable glue any good?

Anyone think the Porter Cable 890 series is good for router table work?

Many thanks.
 

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At the risk of "double posting", the reply I just tried to send sent me to my profile page with no indication that the reply itself had been sent. Hence I try again.

From what I have seen Baltic Birch, even 3/4 inch plywood is stronger than MDF. However, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, so I will be interested to see what others say.

What type of table do you plan to build, an Oak Park-like table or one with T tracks for fences, miter gauges, etc?

What laminate do you plan to use? Again I have heard than melamine (as used in the Oak Park table) is best, but I have no idea where to obtain it.
 

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mftha said:
At the risk of "double posting", the reply I just tried to send sent me to my profile page with no indication that the reply itself had been sent. Hence I try again.

From what I have seen Baltic Birch, even 3/4 inch plywood is stronger than MDF. However, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, so I will be interested to see what others say.

Me too. I thought I would use 1 inch baltic birch.

What type of table do you plan to build, an Oak Park-like table or one with T tracks for fences, miter gauges, etc?

I am not familar with the Oak Park table. I would skip the miter guage. I have heard you don't need it.

What laminate do you plan to use? Again I have heard than melamine (as used in the Oak Park table) is best, but I have no idea where to obtain it.
I think I would not use melamine, but rather the counter top type laminate.

Any responses are very welcome.

Any feedback on 890 Porter Cable routers?

Thanks
 

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Personally if you are going t cover it with laminate I would just use MDF. Baltic Birch makes a great cabinet, that is for sure. MDF is used a lot in router top construction. Either way if you like laminate it will work on both surfaces and you need to apply it to the top and bottom of the top. This controls the moisture absorbtion and will help prevent warping.

corey
 

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mftha said:
At the risk of "double posting", the reply I just tried to send sent me to my profile page with no indication that the reply itself had been sent. Hence I try again.

From what I have seen Baltic Birch, even 3/4 inch plywood is stronger than MDF. However, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, so I will be interested to see what others say.

What type of table do you plan to build, an Oak Park-like table or one with T tracks for fences, miter gauges, etc?

What laminate do you plan to use? Again I have heard than melamine (as used in the Oak Park table) is best, but I have no idea where to obtain it.
Please refer to your original post at:
http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/4234-router-table-size.html
 

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Welcome to the Router Forums S Bolton. I'm glad to see you have jumped right in and started asking questions. We incourage new members to do just that. Feel free to ask away. We have many experienced members who will gladly help. Have fun and work "SAFE".
 

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Welcome S Bolton.
On my table top I used MDF. I glued a 3/4" piece to a 1/2" piece giving me a 1 1/4" thick table and then layered Formica on the top and bottom using the non-flammable glue. I haven't had the table very long but so far no problems and the glue worked fine.
 

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Baltic birch plywood is very high density, many fine layers and no voids spaces as in regular construction grade plywood. 3/4" BB plywood is strong enough by itself to use as a top. Both sides should be covered with Formica or other brand of plastic laminate. I have always used Weldwood contact cement for this and it has been trouble free.
At this time I would have to recommend you avoid the Porter Cable 890 series routers. The reason for this is a very high disatisfaction rate from purchasers.(about 40% negative feedback on Amazon.com) We have noted that the clear plastic sub base plates are too soft and flex with thumb pressure, do not fit properly to the bottom of the router fixed bases, the plunge bases rock when placed on a level surface. I have contacted PC about these and other problems with quality control for the 890 series and they choose not to respond. In fairness there are forum members who have this model and love it. Playing russian roulette with quality on a $200 purchase makes no sense to me. I would encourage you to examine other brands or different PC models instead of the 890 series.
 

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wow.... i just read mikes' post on the 890 series. i have the 892 and i have had none of these problems. in fact it is my everyday router.. now by the same token i also have a pc693 that i use just to run quarter inch bits and a hitachi m12v to run the big stuff. i paid $139.00 for mine from ebay. as far as the table, i have used mdf (double layered) and found no problems. try to use a water based contact cement for the laminate, its better for the brain cells.
 

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Scott, you can follow the saga of the 890 series routers in the News forum. You got one of the good ones, but with such a large proportion of the 890's having trouble that is clearly quality control PC took action to correct it. Now if they will only help the owners of the problem units I will be a happy person.
 
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