I believe the routing won't be an issue after the epoxy is thoroughly cured but why not go one better and use phenolic coated Baltic Birch or HPL...
go w/ a torsion frame instead...Or, drill and screw some scrap 1/8" x 1 1/2" angle iron to the underside. Old bedframe metal is perfect, and free from a mattress store.
I like dowels...Thats the way I do it too only use thin wood strips like lath.
Herb
I've always used waxed paper. The glue doesn't stick to wax paper. You lay them across (as in multiple sheets) and pull out a sheet at time and stick the laminate down before you pull out the next sheet. Just don't stick it down too close to the next sheet or it will be hard to pull out. It's really easy to line the laminate up to the substrate when there is only wax paper between so you don't need much extra for trim. Once I have it lined up I usually have my wife hold it in place until I get a sheet out and part of it stuck down. That makes her feel important. :laugh2:Thats the way I do it too only use thin wood strips like lath.
Herb
Bring a straight edge with you when you find a source of baltic birch with a laminate. These are not necessarily flat to begin with.
I agree with these flatness comments. I started building a 10" x 36" taper jig out of nominal 3/4" Baltic Birch that was reasonably flat when I started. After cutting dovetail slots for MicroJig's dovetail clamp, the edge looked like a banana.
MDF is going to be more dimensionally stable than the best plywood. Do some online shopping for the more expensive (non cast iron) router table tops and see what material and thickness they use. Try to replicate what they offer. The last thing you want is to spend a lot of time to save a few nickels and end up with a finished product that you are unhappy with.