Hi PointFive

That's one job that should have been done when you did the oval
You can still get it done with a plunge bit like below,,,

You will need to lock the frame down to some plywood and use a edge guide and a oval / bead bit..

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?dept=10
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?dept=46

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Hi,

In RWS DVD series #6 Bob & Rick make and route a oval mirror. Might be worth the $$ to purchase and see the experts do it. Just a thought.

 

HI Ken

I will agree they are the pro's. but in this case I think he needs a jig to get it done.. now that's he has it cut out..

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17282&filter=oval jig
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17282&TabSelect=Videos

on sale for 50.oo bucks
I have one and I would give 5 stars out of 5 stars
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You can rout the face of an oval by placing your wood face down on the table and using a bearing guided bit for the inside and outside edges. Routing the outside requires a safety or starting pin but this is not needed for inside routing. You can accomplish the same and more by using Template Tom's methods of guide bushings, templates and router ski's. Spend a few minutes reviewing his posts under Templates and guide bushings.

 

Hi Mike

I guess I miss read his post, he said he wanted to put a bead on the face side of the oval frame,,,that's why he was putting on edge on the router table,,, I don't know he could do that by putting it face down on the router table and using guides..and a starting pin...

I guess he could get the job done with a a template and a guide and a plunge router but it would be tricky at best..

Please tell me how you would do it on the router table

Thanks


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Paul
I think I have an answer to your problem if I understand what you want to do but before I go and explain what I would do I would like a clearer picture of what you really want to do and what you have produced. So my advice is to submit a drawing or a picture of what you have achieved so far then at least we can have an idea of the problem. As it is an elliptical shape and I assume you still have the original template you used to cut the shape then the problem can be solved. So please some more information of what you have done so far and details of the template you used to cut it out.
Tom

Samples; Smaller elliptical frames cut from solid timber

 

Face Routing an Oval Mirror Frame



So far, I have glued up the segments and rough bandsawed out the shape close to the line from the template. I have the original oval plastic frame to use as a template and I see no problem following the template on the router table or applying a roundover bit as in RW#6 which I bought. Bob and Rick have a plain face on their frame. I need beads and shape, like yours.

I have not yet routed the inside and outside shape following the template. I was testing the face beading concept on a piece of wood that I cut in the shape of an oval when I realized that you can't evenly add the decorative FACE beads etc by standing the piece on it's edge on the router table in front of the spinning bead bit.

Your picture is what I'm trying to achieve. Mine is even simpler - a plain oval. No scallops. How did you do that? The beads look perfectly parallel.

Thanks for the help,

Paul

 

Hi Paul

Just a butt in post

Just chuck one of the bits below and put the profile in place on the router table..
the bearing on the bit will do all the work for you..


http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_covbd.html
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...g.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_bead.html#classical_bits_anchor

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Two laps with a point cutting round over bit with a fence adjustment. This might work better face up with an edge guide.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...e_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_groove.html#Point cutting round over anchor

 

Face Routing on Oval Frame

Mike,

I think the technical question (for producing beads and steps and shapes on the FACE of the oval frame) is what kind of edge guide to attach to the plunge router? A big flat edge guide isn't going to follow the varying path and will cause the bead line to vary its distance from the edge as you change the slope of the edge ahead of the cutter. If I were just routing the edges or near the edges, the suggestions, so far, would work well.

The FACE of the frame is 2-1/2" wide. I need to put some beads 1" from the edge and to make some steps and curves joining the beads and steps.

Paul

 

Paul, you are correct when you say a flat edge guide would not work. I stand by my first answer, this can be done face down on the table with a fence that has sliding faces or a fixture with two wheels to act as guides. Face up could be done with a variation of the two wheel fixture attached as an edge guide. These two reference points would allow for rotation and provide an accurate path for the bit to follow. You see, given some thought "90% of routing jobs can be done with a table mounted router." Tom loves to disagree with this statement. Tom will show you his methods which offer great merit. Like most woodworking jobs there is more than one way to "Get er done!" Choose which ever works best for you.

After giving this more thought I think the easiest way to cut your beads and even to shape the frame would have been with Rocklers eliptical jig. A few bit changes and ajustments and you would be done.

 

Paul, you are correct when you say a flat edge guide would not work. I stand by my first answer, this can be done face down on the table with a fence that has sliding faces or a fixture with two wheels to act as guides.

Mike
Using this method has in my humble opinion two problems.
First lowering the material on to the cutter.
Secondly using the two wheels to act as guides will not produce the face moulding in from the sides equal distance.

Face up could be done with a variation of the two wheel fixture attached as an edge guide. These two reference points would allow for rotation and provide an accurate path for the bit to follow.

Again Mike we have the same problem.

You see, given some thought "90% of routing jobs can be done with a table mounted router." Tom loves to disagree with this statement.

Mike I will always stand by what I have said and to this extent I had submitted a project to illustrate the reason for using the guides and not the router table that was a couple of weeks ago and I still have to have one comment from a member of the forum to say that it could be achieved with the aid of the router table. As I said I am willing to learn new techniques.


Tom will show you his methods which offer great merit. Like most woodworking jobs there is more than one way to "Get er done!" Choose which ever works best for you.

Thanks Mike for your encouragement and also trying to promote the use of the guides. Except for a few members I think I am 'fighting a loosing battle' in my attempt to get others to use the template guides

After giving this more thought I think the easiest way to cut your beads and even to shape the frame would have been with Rocklers eliptical jig. A few bit changes and ajustments and you would be done.

Mike Working with an elliptical cutting jig would be more complicated as it sounds (Though I would love to hear from those who may have tried that method) too many changes to the size of the elliptical shape when a new cutter is required not an easy way to calculate the various adjustments required each time.

Routing the face of the frame in the router table is not the safest method of adding any face moulding, though as said I would like to hear from someone that has used this method and what success they had

Tom

 

Did you ever succeed in completing your project????
Tom