routing curved edges on a router table

A starting pin is necessary, but there alternatives. Anything that is fixed, such as a board clamped tightly to the table a couple of inches away from the bit will work. The main thing is to have some other support on the piece when the piece is fed into the bit. I have had a piece catch and kick back a bit as I brought it into the cutter. You would be impressed how much force a 3/8 roundover bit can generate.

Once you are on the bearing, you can move away from the bit safely. Make sure that you are feeding in the correct direction. Going in the wrong direction can pull the work out of your hands, or your hands toward the bit.

Also, with any work, try to set up a guard to cover the bit area. Since you aren't using your fence, a fence mounted guard won't help, but if you watch Bob and Rick they use a guard that clamps to the table and hovers above the cutter.

Hope this helps,

Good advice from Doug. Be safe!

One thing I do if the piece is very curved is to use the pin to start and route in an couple of inches then take the workpiece away, shut the router off then when it has stopped I take out the pin. Power up again and start routing on the part of the work piece that has been routed... away from the corner. Once you are on the work piece you can route without the pin in place.

Ed

Oops! In my second paragraph, I meant when you are on the bearing you can move away from the STARTING PIN safely. Sorry if I confused anyone!