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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All.....

I'm trying to rout a dovetail slot on the bottom of a cribbage board with a corresponding dovetail slid to hide the pegs. I'll use small magnets to hold the slide in place.

I have a Veritas router table.

I want to do this as safe as possible, seems like I'd need to do climb cuts on all the cuts (makes me a bit nervous).

Does anyone have advice on the cuts?

Thanks to all for looking and a prosperous 2019......
 

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Ed how were you planning on doing this? Are you doing stopped dovetails on the case? That of course would leave rounded corners where you crossover and comeback to the open mouth. If that's what the problem is then I would suggest that you go all the way through and then mill a piece to blank off the one end instead which means you don't need to climb cut.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was planning to chisel the rounded end, I'd rather than routing all the way thru. I'd also chisel a fingernail "hold" in the dovetail slide.

Thanks for replying Chuck.....
 

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Ed,

Can you use a bit that would do it in one pass ? Usually the openings aren't that big !
I would do it on the table with a stop block and then either leave the end round and rout the piece to also be rounded or as you stated use a chisel to square it. If you do it in one pass you wouldn't have to step it. I mean one pass on the width, you can do several on the depth.

Dan
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Dan, the dovetail bit I have now is 1/2 inch, I was looking to make the slot approximately 7/8 inch.

I should have looked, they do make 7/8 inch dovetail bits, a bit pricey but probably the way to go.

How about making the matching dovetail sliding key? Table saw angle cuts?
 

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Paul
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If you need to make more than one pass for the width, cut the pass furthest from you first. Then move the fence away from the bit for the next, etc. Use a stop block to limit the length of the slot. Use a featherboard! Adjust it for each pass. You can't lift the piece when finished a pass, especially the first one. So I guess I would stop the router, loosen the featherboard and back the piece out. Practice on a scrap first.

I made a projectile once while slightly widening a slot on the climb-cutting side, without a featherboard... exciting!
 

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You can chisel the rounded corners square but chiseling in the dovetail could be tricky. You have to chisel in from two directions at each corner. Another option besides a dovetail would be a slot. They are a bit hard to find but there are slot cutters that have flat tops (no bearing or nut exposed). Of course all of this is much simpler if you just glue a lot of separate pieces together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like a plan, I'll try this first, thanks for the diagram!

I happen to have a magnetic featherboard for my router table.

I've gotten the corners square or within my tolerances using several sizes of sharp chisels.

Thanks Guys.....I
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Paul.....

Just finished a 1-inch dovetail in the cribbage board end using your instructions. Worked great! Thank you so much, really appreciated the helping hand.

My little project is coming along nicely.
 

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Hi Paul.....

Just finished a 1-inch dovetail in the cribbage board end using your instructions. Worked great! Thank you so much, really appreciated the helping hand.

My little project is coming along nicely.
I'm glad that it worked out for you, Ed. Post pics of your completed board.
 

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...They are a bit hard to find but there are slot cutters that have flat tops (no bearing or nut exposed). Of course all of this is much simpler if you just glue a lot of separate pieces together.
Charles, you mean like the old pencil boxes, that would be nice. I guess a keyhole bit would require too thick of a cover. They must have had a custom one pass cutter for those pencil cases. You could make a groove simply, if it was separate pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm hoping to get a few minutes over the weekend to complete it. I'll put a photo or two of it when it's done.
Thank you again for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, not too bad for my first attempt. Some of the holes aren't perfect, I don't have a drill press. Overall I'm happy with it, there's enough storage for 6 pegs I bought from Rockler.

The board is curly maple.

I'm going to finish it with tung oil & a few light coats of shellac.

I'll try my hand at carving pegs, not sure how that will go....

Thanks for looking
Ed
 

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Looking good, Ed. Nice looking wood which should 'pop' with a finish on it.
 
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