Router Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone;
I have just enrolled into your forum. I want to say hello to every one and hope you accept me as a junior woodworking fan.

I have a brand new Makita RP1800 3.25hp and a nice chinese trimmer that I used for most of my work so far. I'm building a router table and couldn't find T-Track locally while through the net no one guarantees the T-Track bending during transportation so, I decided to make it from Engineering Plastic (if applicable) and would like to ask if any one had used his router to groove Engineering plastic and if there is any advise/technique to follow if this is possible!?

Your advise will be very much appreciated

Best Regards
Reslan Hawasli
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
11,934 Posts
Reslan, you should have no problem getting the track shipped. Rockler packs theirs in a sturdy cardboard tube. That said you do not have to use T track, you can easily clamp feather boards or jigs in position... no limitations on placement this way.
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
16,385 Posts
I use t-track for my fence on my current table but I have 2 more that the fence just clamps to the edges. Either one gets the job done. If you were thinking about installing a miter track in the table keep in mind that using a miter groove requires that you get the fence perfectly parallel to the miter track and get it set for the correct amount of bit exposure. Doing both can be time consuming. I just use a square push block to guide my piece along the fence.
Your new table might be simpler than you originally thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
T-Track

Thanks mike, I will order the track from Rockler.

Reslan, you should have no problem getting the track shipped. Rockler packs theirs in a sturdy cardboard tube. That said you do not have to use T track, you can easily clamp feather boards or jigs in position... no limitations on placement this way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Appreciate the advise :)

Thanks for the advise Chuck, actually I am concerned about the fence track as it is necessary like you said. Just for experiance I will examine if I can make slider groove on the table that is exactly parallel to the fence. First, I am willing to make two slotts on the table perpendicular to the fence (L shape fence) and underneath it so that I can always slide it straight and parallel to the miter slot. I will extend the marking lines to meet at 90 degrees with the miter slot and then draw it and rout it. What do you think? Any advise?
Best Regards
Reslan
I use t-track for my fence on my current table but I have 2 more that the fence just clamps to the edges. Either one gets the job done. If you were thinking about installing a miter track in the table keep in mind that using a miter groove requires that you get the fence perfectly parallel to the miter track and get it set for the correct amount of bit exposure. Doing both can be time consuming. I just use a square push block to guide my piece along the fence.
Your new table might be simpler than you originally thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advise Chuck, actually I am concerned about the fence track as it is necessary like you said. Just for experiance I will examine if I can make slider groove on the table that is exactly parallel to the fence. First, I am willing to make two slotts on the table perpendicular to the fence (L shape fence) and underneath it so that I can always slide it straight and parallel to the miter slot. I will extend the marking lines to meet at 90 degrees with the miter slot and then draw it and rout it. What do you think? Any advise?
Best Regards
Reslan
 

·
Official Greeter
Joined
·
19,126 Posts
Welcome to the forum, Reslan.
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
16,385 Posts
Thanks for the advise Chuck, actually I am concerned about the fence track as it is necessary like you said. Just for experiance I will examine if I can make slider groove on the table that is exactly parallel to the fence. First, I am willing to make two slotts on the table perpendicular to the fence (L shape fence) and underneath it so that I can always slide it straight and parallel to the miter slot. I will extend the marking lines to meet at 90 degrees with the miter slot and then draw it and rout it. What do you think? Any advise?
Best Regards
Reslan
Reslan, this is all I use to miter with. I just find a square piece of scrap and use it to push my work past the bit. I don't need the fence to be square with the table. To me, this is much faster and a lot easier and is very accurate. I believe in keeping it as simple as possible.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,486 Posts
For routing an end piece, I like using the square scrap method, its easy to keep the piece perfectly square to the fence and acts as a backer to stop tear out. I mostly use MDF scrap for that purpose. I like the scrap to be 7-8 inches wide where it meets the fence. If the edge that goes into the bit gets torn up, I put it in a table saw sled and cut a fresh face.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thnks to every one who wellcomed me and advised me for best solution for my router table that I really appreciate and will certainly follow. By the way I liked the comments you put under your messages gentlemen, I will soon find one for me.
Reslan
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top