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Gentlemen I'm sure this is a novice question with a simple solution but I am relatively new to woodworking. I am making a custom shoe rack that involves routing of both sides of several 5-foot long oak boards. The routing went just fine on the narrower boards of 2 1/2 inch widths but on the 3 1/2 inch boards I keep getting tear out on the last inch to inch and a half. I made a sturdy backer board as I am getting to the end and used a ball bearing third hand support to hold the piece of the board that extends beyond the table. I am still getting tear out. I know the easy way would be to precut all my lengths two inches longer than I need just so I can cut those troublesome last inch or so. However that seems like cheating. I sure would like to do it right. Is handheld routing these cuts a better approach. Any help or suggestions is welcomed. Thanks.
 

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John
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You are probably running against the grain,can you flip the board 180* and cut with the grain
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was going against the grain on the first board but the next two occurred with the grain. I did not get as much tear out but continued to occur. Maybe I am not using the backer board properly. I am pushing forward but emphasizing the pressure to keeping the project board and the backer board edges square. Thanks for your help.
 

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Sometimes the grain starts to run in a different direction as you go along, so I find it necessary to go to the end and pulling it being very careful. Another trick is to clamp a thin peice over it as a helper when you route to prevent tear out.
 

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Gentlemen I'm sure this is a novice question with a simple solution but I am relatively new to woodworking. I am making a custom shoe rack that involves routing of both sides of several 5-foot long oak boards. The routing went just fine on the narrower boards of 2 1/2 inch widths but on the 3 1/2 inch boards I keep getting tear out on the last inch to inch and a half. I made a sturdy backer board as I am getting to the end and used a ball bearing third hand support to hold the piece of the board that extends beyond the table. I am still getting tear out. I know the easy way would be to precut all my lengths two inches longer than I need just so I can cut those troublesome last inch or so. However that seems like cheating. I sure would like to do it right. Is handheld routing these cuts a better approach. Any help or suggestions is welcomed. Thanks.
what kind of bit ? and what kind of profile ? i route on my table all the time and i will not get tare out , are you going full speed on the bit, what size of bit , if small diamater than full speed , and a good sharp bit , oak could tare out but i hardly get tare out , the only time that happen's is when you go across grain or end than when you go length wise that clean's that up , i think you are doing a over kill but you should be able to do that with out all the stuff you are doing ?? and it isn't still working right , all bit's have a speed that they need to run at, and need's to be sharp good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am using a Freud 1 inch convex bit that is brand new on 3/4 inch board. My router is a variable speed on the middle 3 setting and and the fence is set so that maybe an 1/8 inch of the bit is showing, just enough to soften the edges. Thanks for your help.
 

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I am trying to visualize how to clamp the thin piece of wood and currently having a senior moment. Can you break it down for me. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you talking about using a toggle clamp to hold down the thin strip of wood over the stock and backer board. If so should the thin wood be right with the stock's edge at the bit? I got past my senior moment and does the above coincide with your idea. Thanks
 

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It doesn't seem as though you are making a heavy duty cut, but you might try multiple passes, increasing the depth each time, to see if that works. Steve in California
 

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Are you talking bullnose bit? Are you getting chip out or snipe? Different solutions need for each of those problems. Picture of the bit and the board with the problem may help.
 

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Try routing the end 1"-2" in reverse direction before routing the board the way you have been doing. I have been told this may eliminate the tear out that you get the last inch or so. Oh yea, try this with some scrap before you route the real piece.

Good luck,
Ken
 

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I am probably more of a novice but when it happens to me it's been because I've left the bearing proud of the fence and it dips in at the end or didn't featherboard the piece correctly and it moves "all by itself" (especially long pieces)...and almost every time I make too deep of a cut. There are many sites that provide bit size vs speed charts...that might help as well...I seem to remember almost any bit below 1" wants close to full speed. Not sage advice by any means...just what I've run into in my own "woops"...

Nick
 

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I find with wood prone to tear out to make several relief cuts right at the end opposite the end that you normally start at. In fact there is nothing to stop you doing this every 2 or 3 inches along the entire board then route as normal.

Regards Jeff
 
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