Is this the 'badboy'?
TSS Tablesaw w/ Scoring by Laguna Tools - 800.234.197
You'll need a firewall to stop the members drooling all over it!

 

Yes it is. (Treating myself.) Got the quote last night. But even though we talked about this router table, they mistakenly left it off the quote. The router table kit is really an option for their Platinum series saws.

The difference in those two saw's table size is 4". The Fusion and Platinum series saws have the same width front to back as most traditional saws = 27"... which would make any accessories (router table kit, sliding table) for them able to go on "most" saws. Enter the TS and TSS with a table 31" front to back.

The cast iron router table wing bolts on to those saws - 3 bolts holes on one side / 4 bolt holes on the opposite side. Made that way to fit most saws. But that is with a 27 inch table...

I think the wing weighs about 80 pounds without a router mounted on. Mounted on the end of the right extension table, there is legs right there to help support.... possibly other braces /support and maybe a 4 inch filler on the table. Cast iron warps also. I don't want to pay that much and have it warp.

EDIT-- Now thinking about it in this thread... 19-3/4" wide? Half that for the center of the router would be a router table at 9-7/8" deep?

 

Mike this is a tough question but I would go for the saw that I could get an exact match for. There is something to be said about the look of a tool as well as how well it functions. A tool like this deserves respect! A large Formica out feed or side table look fine because they are wide but I'm not sure how good a 4" strip would look. If you could get some laminate that was cast iron in color it might not look too bad.

 

Go to a step down in a saw to get a router table extension that matches? LOL. Not going to happen. I'm set on the functionality of the TSS. I've gone years with Cabinet Saws, using sleds and other jigs to expand functionality to what this saw does out of the box, with the accuracy I want.

Of the tools I require and their use in order- (1) Sliding Compound Miter Saw, (2) Table Saw and (3) Router Table. I'm not currently working full-time as a carpenter, so I see the table saw use going up in my ranks. Woodworking helps me unwind, relax and get my head straight.

Why add a Router Table Extension to this Saw? The saw's footprint is large and I have limited work space. My current shop saw has a large footprint, but this saw is larger- not just in size, but how the infeed and outfeed goes.

I looked at this company's 5 function combo machine (TS, shaper, jointer, planer, mortiser... but it had twice the footprint. I saw problems going from one function to another that sacrificed form, function and time. I didn't like how it was laid out and it seemed I would have to make concessions and workarounds to use each function. (and it was 3-phase) Space is an issue with me. Like some other members here, I often have to move stuff out of the garage to work seriously.

I already have 3 router tables, which I hope to replace at least 1 table with an extension wing... And later build a horizontal table to replace one of the others. On the extension, I can use many of the fences and other accessories from the table it's replacing.

On this planned router extension... I could make it one piece in wood. But besides woodworking, I have experience with welding/fabrication and machining. Whatever I do, I will make it look clean and professional. I want to keep the lines of the saw and in the same style of the saw. If I add 2 inches on each side of the cast iron extension and wrap around the end to add another 8" or so to the router table, that it would look more professional and be more usable to me. Like I said, I don't want to step down by losing function.

I looked at the Bench Dog's and Grizzly's cast iron router extensions (same size). I didn't like their tables and fences.

I could add on to a standard sized TS router table extension and make it the same size easily by just using some 2" extruded aluminum on each side of the extension. But I also thought about using aluminum plate or stainless.

I don't plan on just hanging something off the end... I want to to be sturdy and last. Weight of the extension and any needed bracing is not an issue as the saw itself is already over 1000 pounds. I plan on making it look good. Most importantly, it needs to be as functional or more so than what I already have.

I toyed with the idea of morphing in a shaper table instead of a router table extension... but I love working with router tables.

 

I have "retro" fitted a RT into TS wing. Now this is on the CHEAP. I fitted a Masterforce RT top into the wing of my Crafstman Contractor TS. The "void" front to back was a structural pain to execute. Most RT are mounted to right on TS. This means direction of feed is opposite from TS to RT. The void must be filled so that there is no bump in either direction. If I was spending that type of money it would be ALL factory not one with my COB JOBS attached. But I love my COB JOBS so I guess I will forgo the laguana

 

I recently added a router table to my Ridgid 4512. Bought the cheapest top from Rockler (about $80) and cut the end that met the TS top and the sides to fit in the wings. It does not look like a "perfect" thing, but it works like it is supposed to. Of course, for the price of a Laguna I would want it to look like it was a match made in heaven!

 

Mike, I understand the need for saw mounted router tables with limited space but I recommend against them. First off a router table needs to be higher for comfort and control. Another important consideration is once you have either the saw or router set up you have to change everything to use the other portion. Set up time is something I am happy to reduce when ever possible. Saw extension router tables are also restricted by virtue of the saw frame. I think you are better off keeping them apart.

 

I respect all you said Mike.

The right side of the saw table is 54" out from the blade. The saw's fence system only goes out to that far. A router extension would be out from there (another 19-3/4"). Their router extension kit has a separate router fence, which I kind of like.

If I needed to go out further than 54" for sheets, I think I would gladly take off the router fence and appreciate the extra 19" plus of support. The fence comes off easily and the router table extension would also except my other fences.

On table height. I'm used to that height. I'm remembering that you are tall, towering over things. Remember, I'm just a short little cuss. (LOL) The table it would replace is not very tall, the same height as my shop saw.

But I'll think on what you said more while I'm working tonight. For instance, that's another $500 that would go into that order. I already have that capability with what I have.

 

Mike, router table height should be 3-5" below your elbow for maximum comfort and control. Lower than that requires more bending and stooping. If your current router table is lower than that you could easily adjust the height by putting something under it to see how different it feels. Once the set up is done on a table saw the cuts are made quickly and guided by a fence/sled or slider. Router tables are often used with bearing guided bits or guide bushings for irregular shapes. This requires your arms to have a bit of "preload pressure" if you will. It is easy enough to check out and well worth your time to try this. I am sure you have routed stuff on a step stool style metal router table sitting on the floor, it works but is far from comfortable.