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Hi all,while routing the rabbet for the Kreg insert plate,I've lost control of my 3 1/4 hp Triton & ran a groove outside the line by about 3/4"inch.I'm going to attempt routing an extra rabbet around the original one & inlay a hardwood frame to cover my mistake.The substrate is MDF so what glue should I use,if any,or should I throw the table top out & begin anew.Thanks for advice in advance,James jj777746
 

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MDF...
can't help ya...
start over ...
 

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I'd start new , but that's just me . Did you not build a template to guide your router?
 

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Hi all,while routing the rabbet for the Kreg insert plate,I've lost control of my 3 1/4 hp Triton & ran a groove outside the line by about 3/4"inch.I'm going to attempt routing an extra rabbet around the original one & inlay a hardwood frame to cover my mistake.The substrate is MDF so what glue should I use,if any,or should I throw the table top out & begin anew.Thanks for advice in advance,James jj777746
James ,you might be able to patch the spot, depending how large it is with Bondo or even glue in a wood patch with TiteBond II or III, and put a new laminate top over the one you have. Be sure to rough up the existing top with some 80 grit to get a good glue bond. Use contact cement.

Herb
 

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Hmmm, my perfectionist side says start over. But, you could patch it. I would try to at least make it look "planned" - block out a square area around the mistake and route it out to a standard MDF depth that works for your top (1/2"?). Then square it off with a sharp chisel and cut a piece of MDF to patch with. Any wood glue is fine - I've used TBII on MDF.

As for making rabbets - I got a Freud rabbeting set and use it a lot. Makes for pretty fool proof rabbets. If you have weird corners on the rabbet, I would use double sided tape and stick straight edge guides down to confine the router.
 

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Laminate the top

I once worked in a millwork shop and saw similar mistakes fixed by letting in what they called a "Dutchman". It involved enlarging the hole to a regular size, cutting a patch from similar material, and then gluing it into place. In your case MDF is hard to glue as it swells with normal wood glues, but poly glues (Gorilla glue is the brand that comes to mind) seem to work. Once done, I would cover the whole top with plastic laminate and they re-route the insert hole using a template. Laminate makes a great top, it is slick, cleans easily, and is forgiving of glue and paint mistakes.
Big routers are no fun to hand hold, I have lots of stories from my millwork days!
Mike
 

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I'm sure you could pick one of any number of ways to fix/patch/edge, etc... the mistake.

Personally I would start over making sure you use a template or guide edge. By the time you decide on some way to repair what you have you'll have replaced it with a new top.

If you do edge you'll want to find a way to strengthen the edging joint to the MDF...dowels maybe, after edging and gluing (drill and plug)... a rabbet for the edging for support...? Other ideas, I'm sure.

...but I would start over...
 
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I only use Melamine glue or polyurethane for mdf and particle board. You can patch it easily enough. Replacing it shouldn't be that big a deal either. We can get 2' x 4' cuttings of HPL at many of our hardware stores here for $5-7 dollars a sheet and mdf is cheap. Remember that if use use guide strips and work to the hole side of them that the only direction the router can get away from you is toward the center hole.
 

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Stick may be correct and it could just be easier to start again, here's a tip and a photo from my workbench thread, when you want to have an exact cut then make a jig to keep the router trapped, this box will never let a cutter get loose. I included the photo of how I made it/ N
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'd start new , but that's just me . Did you not build a template to guide your router?
I followed the instructions exactly,sticking 5 inch wide boards down with double sided tape etc.But still managed to stuff it up.Thanks for all the advice.jj
 

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Stick may be correct and it could just be easier to start again, here's a tip and a photo from my workbench thread, when you want to have an exact cut then make a jig to keep the router trapped, this box will never let a cutter get loose. I included the photo of how I made it/ N
Thank you Neville,your's is a much better method & I shall do it your way next time
 

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I followed the instructions exactly,sticking 5 inch wide boards down with double sided tape etc.But still managed to stuff it up.Thanks for all the advice.jj
Don't feel bad James as I'm sure most of us have done it . I finally gave up on making a template and bought a top from Incra lol . I'm going to build the stand though, as this way I can design it for my storage needs .
Bit by purchasing a top the plates hole is already done and a perfect fit , plus it has a miter slot .
I am going to build a double router table though , and will see how that goes
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I only use Melamine glue or polyurethane for mdf and particle board. You can patch it easily enough. Replacing it shouldn't be that big a deal either. We can get 2' x 4' cuttings of HPL at many of our hardware stores here for $5-7 dollars a sheet and mdf is cheap. Remember that if use use guide strips and work to the hole side of them that the only direction the router can get away from you is toward the center hole.
Thank you Charles,this is the first RT I have built & I appreciate your advice about which glue to use etc.
 

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I just noticed that you are in Oz James so I don't know how hard it would be for you to get the Melamine glue. I'm sure the Titebond will work too but I find the Melamine glue doesn't get starved as easily by the composite boards as most conventional glues seem to, especially when edge gluing.
 
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