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I am having problems keeping surface rust off tool surfaces. Can anyone suggest the best product to use to REMOVE rust from metal surfaces and also what product is best used to KEEP the rust off.
 

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luvmyretirement said:
I am having problems keeping surface rust off tool surfaces. Can anyone suggest the best product to use to REMOVE rust from metal surfaces and also what product is best used to KEEP the rust off.
Not too sure if Naval Jelly is best for tools, however it works great on other metals. With rust continuing to be a problem, I'd suggeat that HUMIDITY might be the primary problem. A light coat of oil will preserve a rust free surface, as a LAST RESORT - WD-40.


Hope this helps

cfm
 

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I read an article in one of the woodworking magazines suggesting WD-40 to be the best surface coating as far as resisting future rust based on their test results. The suggested method was to allow the clean metal to soak in WD-40 for 5 minutes, then to wipe dry. They also had a bunch of methods to remove the rust. I will sort through my collectiion and try to find which issue for you.
I have always used WD-40 and scotchbrite to clean my tools.
 

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Ahh.... A chance for a newbie to contribute something :p

Johnsons paste wax is great on the machine surface. Helps prevent rust as well as keep the surface slick and the stock moving freely. Another good choice is Top Coat which is a spray on and easier to apply. Both should be wiped and buffed a little after drying.
 

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Rust

Bob N said:
Ahh.... A chance for a newbie to contribute something :p

Johnsons paste wax is great on the machine surface. Helps prevent rust as well as keep the surface slick and the stock moving freely. Another good choice is Top Coat which is a spray on and easier to apply. Both should be wiped and buffed a little after drying.
I had a table saw left outside for 3 weeks when I built my new shop. Used a grill stone on the surface(all I could find at the time) worked real good and sprayed with silicone spray that I keep to lubricate door hinges. But the wax sounds like a good idea though. I used to simonize my tool box to keep it looking good and protect it.
 

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I heard from someone who restores cars he uses a "frog????" I forgot the name but I have also seen it mentioned in woodworking mag's. He says it the best he has ever come across for restoring rusty surfaces. Anyone know what I'm talking about????

I personal like to use wax to protect and lub..... do a search or look around I just put a message out on the subject of wax this past few days.....

Ed
 

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OK OK I was a little off it is Bull-Frog...... as in:
www.bull-frog.com

look for the rust remover.......

If you go this way I'd like to hear what you think of the product.

Ed
 

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rusty table saw

I was suggested to use an auto wax. Once the surface is clear of rust( and if you have one) use a high speed buffer and a finish wax. With car wax there should be no oily residue left on the table that will transfer to your work and should protect it for a while. I know for myself even this is hard to work seeing as that my shop is unheated and I live on the wet coast, but it is definitely better than nothing
 

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I ues W-D 40 and 400 grit wet dry sand paper and some hard work . But it comes up real nice. Then I use a top grade wood paste wax Like Johnsons .But I do know that wood wax works a lot better than car wax .Car wax drys to hard and is not as slick.
Learning Herb
 

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Learning Herb said:
I ues W-D 40 and 400 grit wet dry sand paper and some hard work . But it comes up real nice. Then I use a top grade wood paste wax Like Johnsons .But I do know that wood wax works a lot better than car wax .Car wax drys to hard and is not as slick.
Learning Herb
Just a note on WD-40. WD stands for Water Displacing, and the 40 is the 40th formula tried. TIP! Try scotchbrite pads (light pressure) or fine steel wool.

Reible wrote "OK OK I was a little off it is Bull-Frog...... as in:
www.bull-frog.com

look for the rust remover.......

If you go this way I'd like to hear what you think of the product."

Why do I have visions of you doing a google search of "Rusty + Frog"? ;) :D

Cheers!
CB
 

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CanuckBeaver said:
Just a note on WD-40. WD stands for Water Displacing, and the 40 is the 40th formula tried. TIP! Try scotchbrite pads (light pressure) or fine steel wool.

Reible wrote "OK OK I was a little off it is Bull-Frog...... as in:
www.bull-frog.com

look for the rust remover.......

If you go this way I'd like to hear what you think of the product."

Why do I have visions of you doing a google search of "Rusty + Frog"? ;) :D

Cheers!
CB
I had alerted to the name because of what I had heard from a friend so I recalled seeing the product mentioned "Rust Removal & Prevention" where someone ask "A fine layer of rust has developed on my band saw tabletop...." The answer was Bull Frog Rust Remover and Bostik TopCote.
See the June 2004 issue of Workbench page 8. I was lucky it was the first copy I looked at and it was right inside the first few pages.... I don't always look to the web to find things but I could also see me doing that search and finding a lot of things other then what I wanted.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for your suggestions everyone. I am going to try to purchase Bull Frog Rust Remover and then apply a coat of wax. I will post my results once I have tracked down the product.
 

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I seem to recall a similar thread in another forum that advised against using auto wax on unpainted surfaces because many of them contain water - I use Johnson's on my BS as well as on squares, rulers and other items with bare steel exposed, including the old circular saw that I found in an open shed.
 

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FYI

My order arrived today for a 16oz bottle of Bullfrog. $11.95 + 5.00 S&H (US) from Klingspor's.

Ed
 

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BigEd

Learning Herb said:
I ues W-D 40 and 400 grit wet dry sand paper and some hard work . But it comes up real nice. Then I use a top grade wood paste wax Like Johnsons .But I do know that wood wax works a lot better than car wax .Car wax drys to hard and is not as slick.
Learning Herb
Good idea Herb gave you the only thing I do different ( I have a humidity
problem ) is after the WD-40 treatment I scrub with a medium steel wool
it gets down deep into the little grooves
Big Ed
 

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There is another alternative. Try Oxisolv rust remover, followed by Boeshield Rust & corrosion protection. Both products together set me back $20. However, I live in the Seattle area and rust/corrosion is a problem. After all, after living here for more than two years your toes will web together from the humidity and moisture. :)

Honestly, though. My Jointer, bandsaw tables, and router bit shanks have remained virtually rust free with treatment from Boeshield T-9, after cleaning with Oxisolv. I'm sold on the products, even though a bit costly. I would follow the advice of others though that a light coat of paste wax is a great idea.

My 2 cents worth.

Clay
 

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I have used WD-40 and 800 grit wet dry sandpaper from the auto supply store with great success. I have also read that auto paste wax often contains silicon which can transfer to wood plugging the pores and causing a problem with finishing. Not sure this is true but it seems to make sense.
 

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Even though this thread is 4.5 years old, the subject always comes up.
I have switched from using WD-40 to Bar Keepers Friend.

A powder in a can you mix with water and scrub on the surface. Rinse it off good, dry the top, and apply FURNITURE wax. You are correct that auto wax is bad.
Welcome to the forum Steve.
 

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Still using Johnson's paste wax after 30 years on the "wet" coast. Not a speck of rust on any of my cast iron tables. If rust does show up, scoth brite pad cut to size on the hook 'n loop random orbit sander makes the removal process a piece of cake. Wax after clean up.

Bob'n is right again!
 
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