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Discussion Starter #1
After all these years, I got around to buying a couple clamps to hold sacrificial fences to my table saw fence. They work great, and are an alternative to my old method of securing the fence, which involved drilling holes in the both my regular and sacrificial fences, countersinking the holes.

The only disadvantage of the clamps is, they are not permanently mounted to the sacrificial fence, so must be stored so they can found, when the fence is used.

To solve that problem, I merely made a couple slots in the face of the fence, just below the top, wide enough to, easily, slip Velcro strips through, then turn the clamps over and place them back into the holes, then secure them with the Velcro.
 

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I have just been laying mine down by where the sacrificial fence is--that's a great idea Kelly. Sure is simple enough for me and i have a good supply of those straps around.

earl
 

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I'm cheap and impatient, I made mine, all the tool supply businesses left our area, the only way to get something is to order it on line or one of the small tool and supply shops which takes forever. I hang the S fence on the wall behind the TS and the clamps over it. To date the clamps work fine, the knobs were about 8-$9 total and the rod maybe $5
 

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Has anyone ever found any issues with the clamps not holding the sacrificial fence vertical? This was one of the issues I looked t when trying to figure out how to attach one to my excalibur fence. I finally drilled holes through it, one of the hardest things I've ever had to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Threads elsewhere suggest you are far from the first to have this problem.

It makes me wonder what would happen if you stood the bent bolt (for lack of a better term) on end and whacked it to add one degree, or bent it in a vice, to remove a degree, depending on need.

Has anyone ever found any issues with the clamps not holding the sacrificial fence vertical? This was one of the issues I looked t when trying to figure out how to attach one to my excalibur fence. I finally drilled holes through it, one of the hardest things I've ever had to do.
 
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Thanks for the reminder and great idea.

Dejure, your fence and storage method look great!

I don't have a permanent place for my table saw since I'm still sharing my garage with other things. I don't get to use the table saw as often as I'd like. It is kind of an inconvenience but that's ok for now. My point, your post reminded me that I ordered the same clamps that you have so I'll be ready to make that fence when I start my next woodworking project. Since then, I've forgotten about the fence project. This is like a bonus remembrance! I know where they are stored for now but I can see your point of losing them. I'm not really sure where I'd store the fence once I build one though I'm hoping I can hang it under the table saw top.

Thanks for the reminder and the Velcro idea.

Bryan
 

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My biesemeyer fence inherently does not lock in place @90° to the table, most of the time there's crap between the fence locks silicon offsets and the rail. When the cut is critical I lift the fence and clear the debris then verify 90 with a 4" machinist square.

When I made my clamps the 1st thing I did was check the S fence to the table with the square. Even though the biesemeyer was @ 90 to the table and the S fence clamp rod holes were bored with the DP and the clamp rods were squared to the 6" machinist square the S fence was not square to the table. The clamp rods fit the s fence holes smooth without being over snug, eventually what I believe I discovered, (right or wrong, convinced at any rate) was that the clamps were pulling more at the vertex and pressing more at the top of the s fence rod hole.

So 1st I enlarged the s fence rod holes 1/64, no change, then I enlarged the top of the rod hole and it improved the error a couple to 3 thou. I then decided to decrease the angle a couple degrees, (not sure how much), a visual gap at the vertex. This over compensated, so I cut a 1/2" off the bottom of the clamp rod and like magic the fence was now @ 90° to the table.

Through trial and error I believe I redistributed the clamping pressure.
 

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Kelly that kind of fine tuning should get it accurate.

That's interesting Ron. I wouldn't have thought that the hooks would require that much tuning.

I studied the problem for a while before I drilled my excalibur. I just couldn't think of a practical way to eliminate the problems that I anticipated but had not proven. To qualify things though I'll readily admit that the excalibur extrusion has to the hardest one imagineable to attach anything to. I'm sure the designers only meant for it to be used as a rip fence.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Another advantage of this for many like me - a reminder of what the fence was for. I may go months before I do a project requiring me to bury the blade and I am likely to scratch my head wondering what I'd used this for. Seeing the clamps attached to it would remove that possibility.


Dejure, your fence and storage method look great!

I don't have a permanent place for my table saw since I'm still sharing my garage with other things. I don't get to use the table saw as often as I'd like. It is kind of an inconvenience but that's ok for now. My point, your post reminded me that I ordered the same clamps that you have so I'll be ready to make that fence when I start my next woodworking project. Since then, I've forgotten about the fence project. This is like a bonus remembrance! I know where they are stored for now but I can see your point of losing them. I'm not really sure where I'd store the fence once I build one though I'm hoping I can hang it under the table saw top.

Thanks for the reminder and the Velcro idea.

Bryan
 

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Me Too

I have been using this exact clamp and fence combo for a few years. I have not had a problem with alignment but I do hold the sacrificial fence to the Bessy fence with my thumb and then tighten the clamps before using. I use the same, but shorter version, for a stop block on my Bessy fence. It works good as well and will slide by the blade for measurement then back toward the front of the saw for cutting.
 

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Charles,
Flew over my head too, I figured Square, Plumb, Level and I'm good to go. I even filed out a notch at the vertex to minimize deformation during bending and then light hammering. In retrospect I think its a couple things, the 3/4" ply frame flexes unlike a proper metal frame and the threaded end of the clamp is way higher than the factory jobs.
 

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Superb idea Kelly! I will definitely be "barrowing" this one. ;-)
 

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excellent...
 

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Kelly that's a great idea . In my case I have an Excalibur fence that detaches so I just made another face
 

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Good thread and great info. Thanks to ghidrah and Abthom for the pictures of their DYI clamps.
 

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If I make another set I'm locking the corners with dove tails
 

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Hi Why not drill another "clamping" hole further away from the end of the sacrificial fence and just tighten the clamp on the end of the sacrificial fence. Position the hole so that there is minimal adjustment required from the "normal" fence clamping distance.

Regards

Peter
 

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How do you keep from loosing the Velcro straps when the fence is in use? LOL
 
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