[Eazygeezer]

Hi, I have recently bought a Henry Disston saw as a renovation project, I have cleaned up the back and blade and straightened both. Unfortunately, the back edge of the saw has sheared off. The current handle position doesn't look right and when attached, the blade doesn't fit in the spine/back.

Can anyone advise me if the position is right? If not I was thinking of grinding the back section straight and re drilling holes for a new handle I have made.

 

[Stick486]

best bet is that is not the original handle...
leave the blade and back alone and make a handle that fits...
keep the old handle...

 

[DesertRatTom]

The handle doesn't look quite right. Stick's right, make a new one. I think Paul Sellers has a video (and maybe a 10,000 word blog) on hand sharpening classic saws like this. Looking forward to seeing progress on the project.

Making a replacement handle for an antique saw.

Saw sharpening

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

Lie Nielsen makes a tenon saw based on a Henry Disston saw from the early 20th century. Here's what it looks like: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/1-saw-ts-r11-16-tenon-saw-12-rip Seems to me I read recently that a tenon saw should be angled so that you get good downward force when cutting with them. I don't think that handle has quite enough angle to it.

 

[skiroy56]

IMHO the saw back has shifted. Remove the tote, put the saw plate between two pieces of wood in the vise (preferably pine) and reset the back using a piece of wood to protect the spine with a hammer until parallel. Then I believe you will find that the tote is correct.

 

[TwoSkies57]

@skiroy56

The top front leading edge of the handle does appear to line up with the spine,but looking closely at the bottle edge of the spine towards the back near the handle there does appear to either have or have had moved at one time. Nice carch.
I do believe the handle to be common to the saw. Although in need of a bit of work.if I am not mistaken the slope of the saw plate compensates for the handle positioning.
@Eazygeezer

What are your plans for setting the teeth?

 

[Eazygeezer]

Update

For some reason I could only upload 1 pic, the other 2 are in my album.

When the saw back is fully on the blade the top hole for the handle simply doesn't fit. It's a pretty crummy hack job, when the handle is on there's a steep angle from front to back and only about 2-3mm of the blade is slotted into the back. I have already made a new handle and it's ready to drill. I just wanted to be sure about the position before I drill the handle and look at setting/sharpening.

Can anyone recommend a good UK brand saw sharpening file/files?

I'm going to use the Paul sellers method, it's 10tpi so not quite sure of the set yet all advice gratefully taken

 

[Pounamu]

best bet is that is not the original handle...

Maybe but if not it's a good copy. Or it may have been transplanted from another saw?

Here's mine (yes, I know, it could do with a good clean-up!).

 

[Stick486]

leaning twoaeds a transplant...

 

[Eazygeezer]

Here's a couple more pics. As you can see when the saw back is in place one of the handle holes is obscured. Is this normal? Should the back be inclined from front to handle?

 

[woodknots]

Not sure if you've checked this out but if not, here's a link to a website on Henry Diston saws. If you can make out some of the markings on yours you may be able to compare it to see how the tote sits in relation to the blade and the back.

Disstonian Institute.com -- Online Reference of Disston Saws

 

[Eazygeezer]

Hi yes I have looked on there a great info source, it appears to be a no 4. I believe the back corner has fractured off and the handle has been repositioned to try and accommodate this. A repair to the blade is impossible. If I can't position the handle to accommodate this I see no option but to shorten the saw blade and back and fit the new handle into new holes

 

[Eazygeezer]

Okay so I decided not to cut away any of the blade, I've cleaned up the back and straightened it, give the blade a good sanding. Cut a new tote and it's currently drying from coat 1 of boiled linseed oil. I've drilled the tote holes so the blade is a couple of mm out of the back at the handle end.
I have also sharpened the saw with a rip cut, progressive (a la Paul Sellers) and given it a set of 8 (initial set, this may change)

Once complete I'll upload a pic of the final version! Thanks for your insights and advice

 

[sunnybob]

The back is wrong. It should not cover the holes.
try this site for some really fanatical tool restorers and experts in the UK
Login - UKworkshop.co.uk

 

[DesertRatTom]

I would consider just shortening the back. If the blade has been shortened and the back left full length, then my bet is that someone tried to restore the saw, ran into your situation, and gave up on it. Looking forward to seeing the finished saw.

 

[Eazygeezer]

Renovation 1
Handle 1 constructed and attached, back approx 5 mm from blade. Made a few minor mistakes but on the whole quite pleased with the result. It also cuts nicely as well!!