Wow, nice design.
Sawhorse with wings
I hadn't seen this idea before, it looks useful, and it looks like an easy addition to existing sawhorses:
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OK, but I'd just have made a couple more sawhorses, and used them. You can always use more sawhorses.
The devil is in the details...
The hinge pins protrude above the top of the saw horse, so you can't use the full width for supporting sheet goods. If the wings are open, a sheet of plywood won't touch them, because it's resting on the hinges ;-(
And I'm not big on the idea of screwing nylon web belt to wood and expecting it to hold a load, but it doesn't much matter because the weight will all be on the hinge pins.
The hinge pins protrude above the top of the saw horse, so you can't use the full width for supporting sheet goods. If the wings are open, a sheet of plywood won't touch them, because it's resting on the hinges ;-(
And I'm not big on the idea of screwing nylon web belt to wood and expecting it to hold a load, but it doesn't much matter because the weight will all be on the hinge pins.
Interesting design. What concerns me is that he cuts the wood "between" two supports. To me that is a classic recipe for kickback on a skill saw. Given the degree of movement in all the board he cuts makes me nervous.
Excellent points. I suppose you could use some really tight fitting door hinges, but orginary strap hinges will always be a little loosey goosey. Just enough error to mess you up. Now, if the wings folded down are a bit taller than the center, then you'd have pretty good support anyway. Also, I would make the top bar of the wings extra wide to allow for a blade to cut through without hitting the hinges.The devil is in the details...
The hinge pins protrude above the top of the saw horse, so you can't use the full width for supporting sheet goods. If the wings are open, a sheet of plywood won't touch them, because it's resting on the hinges ;-(
And I'm not big on the idea of screwing nylon web belt to wood and expecting it to hold a load, but it doesn't much matter because the weight will all be on the hinge pins.
Which makes me wonder if the top hinge could be replaced in some way, to get the hinges away from the top edge and the blade. Hummmm. Put hinges on a block between the two long leg piece to lower the hinge a few inches?
Any thoughts on the sloppy hinge pin thing?
I built the Paulk total station which uses 2" webbing for the hinges and the stops. I was skeptical but they work great for the purpose of holding the total station up. I've thought about building more to use as stand alone saw horses, I like this idea. One could use a router to mortise out for whatever kind of hinges to be used. The mortise could be used to 'recess' the hinges below the top.
chessnut2 is that your British accent?
chessnut2 is that your British accent?
you could just cut the profile of the tops so the hinge pins were just shy of the top of the plywood. Might require tapering the insides of the tops.Excellent points. I suppose you could use some really tight fitting door hinges, but orginary strap hinges will always be a little loosey goosey. Just enough error to mess you up. Now, if the wings folded down are a bit taller than the center, then you'd have pretty good support anyway. Also, I would make the top bar of the wings extra wide to allow for a blade to cut through without hitting the hinges.
Which makes me wonder if the top hinge could be replaced in some way, to get the hinges away from the top edge and the blade. Hummmm. Put hinges on a block between the two long leg piece to lower the hinge a few inches?
Any thoughts on the sloppy hinge pin thing?
I think there are ways to do this properly, I just don't think this is one.
Me, I just buy adjustable height saw horses, because I want them taller than usual because of a bad back.
An improvement, but you still have the hinge slop. One thing I liked about the original design is it's built like a face frame, so it's quite light weight. Ply is considerably heavier. Of course, you could build it with the center support a little taller, put the hinges on, then use a straight edge to mark level between the wing tops, then trim the center down to match the exact height. A track saw would make that work. Relatively thin, light weight, easily stored out of the way are all very desirable traits in a saw horse.One could make one side taller than the other, with the hinge at the top of the shorter and lower on the taller.
Piano hinge?
I agree with the face frame design, I just didn't bother to put that detail in sketchup.
No need to cut the center to match the wings, instead put a level on the top when attaching the straps. Use the length of the strap to set the angle of the wings so they become level with the center.
I agree with the face frame design, I just didn't bother to put that detail in sketchup.
No need to cut the center to match the wings, instead put a level on the top when attaching the straps. Use the length of the strap to set the angle of the wings so they become level with the center.
Yet another idea for a folding sawhorse design. Still have to use them in pairs to support the offcut, but it addresses some of the negatives of the other design. And I guess you could make it with three leaves per horse (basically a Z configuration) if you wanted to cut sheet goods.
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This is the design I used and it worked well for me, at least for sheet goods. I can a use for the design that Jim posted. I think that design would work great for dimensional lumber.Yet another idea for a folding sawhorse design. Still have to use them in pairs to support the offcut, but it addresses some of the negatives of the other design. And I guess you could make it with three leaves per horse (basically a Z configuration) if you wanted to cut sheet goods.
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