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Mike I like your version the best so far as without your locking outside supports IMO this one posted here could possibly be to wobbly .
I'm still going to attempt building my chain driven adjustable work height router/ outfield/ workbench table
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In case you haven't seen it, I built an adjustable height work table w/dual routers. It works great, especially since I have cramped working quarters. Router table, assembly table, extension table for my outfeed table/workbench. Lots of possibilities.

Adjustable Height Worktable/Dual Router Table
 

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In case you haven't seen it, I built an adjustable height work table w/dual routers. It works great, especially since I have cramped working quarters. Router table, assembly table, extension table for my outfeed table/workbench. Lots of possibilities.

Adjustable Height Worktable/Dual Router Table
Mike I've always admired the job you did building and designing your router combo work station , and that is what's made me take on the challenge of making my own version . My idea may not work but I'm going to try it anyways . Have most of the parts but it's one project at a time
:|
 

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In case you haven't seen it, I built an adjustable height work table w/dual routers. It works great, especially since I have cramped working quarters. Router table, assembly table, extension table for my outfeed table/workbench. Lots of possibilities.

Adjustable Height Worktable/Dual Router Table
I think that I like this better too, it has the advantage that the size isn't limited by the envelope of the scissor lift. Using the mounting pads for the casters as the lower stop for the legs is slick, that's a great idea. I do have a question though - from the photos, the slots in the plywood legs for the dowel bolts don't appear to go all the way to the bottom, does this mean that the top is built around the assembled legs and that they can't be removed without a lot of disassembly?
 

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I think that I like this better too, it has the advantage that the size isn't limited by the envelope of the scissor lift. Using the mounting pads for the casters as the lower stop for the legs is slick, that's a great idea. I do have a question though - from the photos, the slots in the plywood legs for the dowel bolts don't appear to go all the way to the bottom, does this mean that the top is built around the assembled legs and that they can't be removed without a lot of disassembly?
Here is a better angle. Undo the knobs and lift the top half off.

It also works as a camera stand! :grin:
 

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Thanks Mike. Looking at photos 6 and 8 in your article, it sure does look as if the slots don't go all the way through to the bottom.

I'm OK with my router table the way it is, thinking that I would make this a clamping table with track in the top as I just can't bring myself to rout dadoes in my nice maple top - although I just bought the Kreg clamp and will be inletting the aluminum plate in there.
 

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Tom, I think I finally realized I needed to cut the grooves all the way. I just winged it!

I can't bring myself to cut any dadoes in the table. It gets used for all sorts of stuff, including clamping as well as assembly.

I clamp my router fence on the sides. I have a custom made jig for mounting featherboards if needed.
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/48798-router-table-featherboard-jig.html
 

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Tom, I think I finally realized I needed to cut the grooves all the way. I just winged it!

I can't bring myself to cut any dadoes in the table. It gets used for all sorts of stuff, including clamping as well as assembly.

I clamp my router fence on the sides. I have a custom made jig for mounting featherboards if needed.
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/48798-router-table-featherboard-jig.html
OK, the through slot seems t make more sense. I'm leaning towards your Rev 1 top with the holes and slots. I looked at the Festool MFT replacement tops but they're a little pricey and a home made version would work just as well - and there are a lot of clamps and fixtures out there that fit into the 3/4" holes that slots and T-tracks may not be necessary 19 mm System: Bench Dogs, Panel Clamp, Surface Vise, Bench Anchor, Planing Stop - this is a British supplier but I copied the link because of the variety shown on one page.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
OK, the through slot seems t make more sense. I'm leaning towards your Rev 1 top with the holes and slots. I looked at the Festool MFT replacement tops but they're a little pricey and a home made version would work just as well - and there are a lot of clamps and fixtures out there that fit into the 3/4" holes that slots and T-tracks may not be necessary 19 mm System: Bench Dogs, Panel Clamp, Surface Vise, Bench Anchor, Planing Stop - this is a British supplier but I copied the link because of the variety shown on one page.
My grand daughter came to stay for the weekend. Yesterday, she helped in the shop. She is a ready and willing participant, always ready to help.
http://www.routerforums.com/lobby/66650-totally-random-chat-thread-130.html#post768722

Note that we were using the mobile workstation I built in 2013BS (Before Sketchup). It is versatile and works great.
 

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My grand daughter came to stay for the weekend. Yesterday, she helped in the shop. She is a ready and willing participant, always ready to help.
http://www.routerforums.com/lobby/66650-totally-random-chat-thread-130.html#post768722

Note that we were using the mobile workstation I built in 2013BS (Before Sketchup). It is versatile and works great.
She's a sweetheart, going to be a big help in a couple of years I'm sure.

That's one sturdy bench you built there, no problems with wobble I'll bet. I see that HF has the scissor jack on sale right now, may go ahead and pick one up while I'm deciding how big/small my top can be. That will probably be based on where I can store it when not in use and still have room to move around.
 

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Thanks. I always have time to get the grandkids involved, even if it is something simple. They won't forget the experience.

I bought the larger one for RV's mainly because it had a 19mm head welded on the jack so a drill or impact wrench or even a ratchet can be used. And the offset handle comes with it.
 

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She's a sweetheart, going to be a big help in a couple of years I'm sure.

That's one sturdy bench you built there, no problems with wobble I'll bet. I see that HF has the scissor jack on sale right now, may go ahead and pick one up while I'm deciding how big/small my top can be. That will probably be based on where I can store it when not in use and still have room to move around.
Tom , so your saying your going to build one too . Will definitely be watching that build thread ;)
 

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Tom this is how I want to approach it . I realize it's far more complicated than it should be but I'm going to attempt it anyways .
These are not great pics but it gives you an idea


Im not going to actually use a DC motor but instead have all the drive train assembly in the top part and use a cordless drill threw the top to raise and lower the table


This isn't a great representation of how it works but it sort of gives you an idea . I already bought 5 sprockets , chain and the 1" threaded rod. Instead of having the working parts in the lower area as shown , I will have them in the top section . So there will be two sections to this table , a lower piece and a top section that slide together like Mikes . May have to use Mikes idea to lock down the corners if it's not stable enough with the screws I bought . Wish I had a place to but acme screws and do it right
 

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Tom this is how I want to approach it . I realize it's far more complicated than it should be but I'm going to attempt it anyways .

I'm not going to actually use a DC motor but instead have all the drive train assembly in the top part and use a cordless drill threw the top to raise and lower the table

This isn't a great representation of how it works but it sort of gives you an idea . I already bought 5 sprockets , chain and the 1" threaded rod. Instead of having the working parts in the lower area as shown , I will have them in the top section . So there will be two sections to this table , a lower piece and a top section that slide together like Mikes . May have to use Mikes idea to lock down the corners if it's not stable enough with the screws I bought . Wish I had a place to but acme screws and do it right
I have a couple of projects that have to come first - my track saw table with lift being on top of the list to replace my RA saw (and my wife has some things in mind too), but I will be sure to take some photos. I knocked out a diagonal cabinet for the corner of the shop and have only about 6 photos of the whole build.

If you're looking for Acme threaded rods, do a quick Google search - here's one that seems to have good prices ACME Threaded Rod Coarse Thread | Right Handed Coarse Thread ACME Threaded Rod | ACME Threaded Rod Sizes | Precision ACME Threaded Rod | Free Shipping but Enco sells it too (spent my allowance there more than once). I'm not sure that you need 1" rod though, look in the book for axial rating of the Acme thread and compare it to the anticipated weight of the table plus workpiece - costs go up with size for all components. You need to figure out some method of taking the backlash out of the system or the corners wont raise and lower evenly.

Looking at your schematic, I'm assuming that the sprockets are fixed to the structure somehow and don't just "float" - you might want to check out this site as they have some ideas that may be useful - 8020 dot net (for some reason I can't post the URL) Warning - you will definitely spend your insulation budget here.
 

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@tom
Thanks for the link Tom I will check it out later tonight ;)

Yes I'm sorry the picture leaves a lot to be desired . Yes there fixed , and I was going to have a tensioner to hold the chain tight , plus the white plastic cutting board stuff for guides and so on .
I'm concerned that if go with the good acme rod that the next thing you know I'll be installing the electronics for a stepper motor and programming it to automatically restore itself to out field table height and on and on lol.

Want to keep it sort of simple . Was thinking that if I had 4 screws turning in unison that once it was setup and calibrated I could keep it perfectly level at all times as it raises and lowers . Kind of like a planer does .

I'd like about a foot of travel but 8" would probably do it .
It may be a better project for metal but I was going to try wood first and see how it works
 
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