This is a combo introduction/question. Hope that's OK!
I'm getting back into woodworking after a lengthy absence. Not that I was very advanced before. I like having a workshop and tools so I can fix things and occasionally make something, but I have so many other interests, I don't get enough workshop time to remember the skills! I'm also into photography, video editing, website development, application development, volleyball and gardening! Lucky I'm retired.
I've had a couple of routers for 20 or 30 years, a fixed base and a plunge. I wanted a table mount, and decided it was better/cheaper to buy a Ridgid router with a through the table depth adjustment than to try mounting the plunge router (which was the more powerful) and then add a router lift.
I chose a R29302 with R2911 fixed base and R29202 plunge base. I replaced the plate on the fixed base with a Veritas Base Plate from Lee Valley.
So I'm cutting the hole for the circular router plate and trying to sneak up on the depth, which is frustrating because after each cut, I have to remove the screwed on board which locates the centre point. After three or four incremental depth adjustments, the plate is still above the table by an amount I can't measure, but can feel with a fingernail or metal straightedge. I'm using the depth adjustment knob and increasing the depth by one increment (1/64) at a time, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Eventually, I abandon that approach and use the existing cut: I drop the bit until it hits the existing floor, move back (to a spot where the cut goes right through, and use the micro-adjust to lower the bit until it just catches the edge when I move the router back. Now i do another cut and (of course) it's now too deep. Aargh!!
Questions:
1. When you're dealing with tiny increments, I imagine many things come into play, maybe even the pressure applied when making the cut. Any hints for dealing with these variables?
2. I noticed that when the lock is loosened (which it has to be when making depth adjustments), there is a fair amount of play (1/8" maybe) due to the coarseness of the thread, I think. What techniques should I employ so that the slop doesn't affect the measurement? (I'm thinking this would not be a problem after it's mounted in a table, but it would be good to know anyway.)
3. Any thoughts on raising the plate back to the level of the table? I tried one, then two, layers of masking tape, but it didn't do the job. I'm wondering about applying wood glue and sawdust, then re-routing. Anyone had this problem? My eyesight isn't good enough to measure this (I'll try a dial indicator later!) my feeling is it's about 1/16" or less)
I've never tried to make cuts to this level of accuracy before and it's a whole new world!
Thanks in advance!
David
I'm getting back into woodworking after a lengthy absence. Not that I was very advanced before. I like having a workshop and tools so I can fix things and occasionally make something, but I have so many other interests, I don't get enough workshop time to remember the skills! I'm also into photography, video editing, website development, application development, volleyball and gardening! Lucky I'm retired.
I've had a couple of routers for 20 or 30 years, a fixed base and a plunge. I wanted a table mount, and decided it was better/cheaper to buy a Ridgid router with a through the table depth adjustment than to try mounting the plunge router (which was the more powerful) and then add a router lift.
I chose a R29302 with R2911 fixed base and R29202 plunge base. I replaced the plate on the fixed base with a Veritas Base Plate from Lee Valley.
So I'm cutting the hole for the circular router plate and trying to sneak up on the depth, which is frustrating because after each cut, I have to remove the screwed on board which locates the centre point. After three or four incremental depth adjustments, the plate is still above the table by an amount I can't measure, but can feel with a fingernail or metal straightedge. I'm using the depth adjustment knob and increasing the depth by one increment (1/64) at a time, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Eventually, I abandon that approach and use the existing cut: I drop the bit until it hits the existing floor, move back (to a spot where the cut goes right through, and use the micro-adjust to lower the bit until it just catches the edge when I move the router back. Now i do another cut and (of course) it's now too deep. Aargh!!
Questions:
1. When you're dealing with tiny increments, I imagine many things come into play, maybe even the pressure applied when making the cut. Any hints for dealing with these variables?
2. I noticed that when the lock is loosened (which it has to be when making depth adjustments), there is a fair amount of play (1/8" maybe) due to the coarseness of the thread, I think. What techniques should I employ so that the slop doesn't affect the measurement? (I'm thinking this would not be a problem after it's mounted in a table, but it would be good to know anyway.)
3. Any thoughts on raising the plate back to the level of the table? I tried one, then two, layers of masking tape, but it didn't do the job. I'm wondering about applying wood glue and sawdust, then re-routing. Anyone had this problem? My eyesight isn't good enough to measure this (I'll try a dial indicator later!) my feeling is it's about 1/16" or less)
I've never tried to make cuts to this level of accuracy before and it's a whole new world!
Thanks in advance!
David
