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sharpening stones

1117 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  DesertRatTom
Faithfull FAIDWTRIPLE Diamond Whetstone Sharpening Kit
I saw these on on Amazon - has anybody tried them, they are a lot cheaper than Trend, but are they as good?

Diamond Stones
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These are only about 2.5 inches wide, which limits plane iron size, but they got 4 plus stars on 357 ratings, so they are probably OK for smaller blades. I would add some 2,000 and 4,000 grit sandpaper, and a leather strop to really finish the job. I went to a glass shop and they gave me a chunk of half inch plate glass, which I use under the sandpaper. Nice and flt, and the guy in the shop even beveled the sharp edges for me. If you can shave the hair on your arm, it's probably sharp enough to work well. But the finishing, removing the burr, makes a real difference in performance and ease of use.
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did you read the Reviews and Customer Q&A at the bottom of the listing? They would be good for my hobby desk as I have mostly small carving and chip knives. For larger tools, not so good, as Tom said.
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Ah, they are very small, only suitable for chisels
It says in the description suitable for plane blades, however the size description is a bit ambiguous.
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Ah, they are very small, only suitable for chisels
It says in the description suitable for plane blades, however the size description is a bit ambiguous.
there are small planes and there are large planes. You have to decide what is best for you.
Has anybody used this? are they any good or is there something better or better value about

I used the 'scary sharp' method with sandpaper to sharpen my chisels and plane blades.
I did purchase some stones, but never used them....!!!
Why is it called scary sharp?
Why is it called scary sharp?
I guess that is just a 'nick'name for the process.
Uses various grade of sandpaper, and does get blades very sharp....
Why is it called scary sharp?
Some folks get nervous about ultra sharp tools, but super sharp tools are easier to work with and much safer because you don't have to apply as much pressure to make a cut, so there is less chance of it slipping. A relative helped me install double french interior doors, and borrowed one of my chisels to cut a latch mortise. He said he'd never worked with a chisel that sharp before, it was like a hot knife through butter. Most people don't do the final steps of ultra high grit to bring the chisel to a fairly shiny appearance, then a leather strop with some sharpening compound to work off the slight burr on the edge.

I have a sharpening machine, but almost never use it, except to deal with a damaged chisel. I don't like wetstones because you must flatten them. When I use sandpaper, it's attached to a piece of half inch plate glass, which is ultra flat.

The only other consideration about using powered grinders is that they can overheat the blade so it loses it's temper, in which case it won't hold an edge very long.

Look up the method on YouTube. There are a lot of videos on the topic. Some include how to tune up a chisel or plane iron, which must be done before you use it the first time.

You might already know this stuff, so I wrote a bit long so someone who hasn't done this before gets the info.

Here's the Stumpy Nubbs video on the topic. Very detailed.
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I too am a convert to the 'scary sharp' method (no idea about the origin of the name other than it does produce some scary sharp edges...!). Rockler has a kit, which includes a piece of plate glass and some rubbery feet to mount to the glass, along with a set of graded grit 'sand' paper. One set goes from 220, 320, 400, to 600 grit and another set goes from 800, 1200, 1500, to 2000 grit, I think the tempered glass piece is around a foot or so square and the sandpaper is 4-1/2" x 11" inches I've got it set up so I have the coarse grit set on one side of the glass and the fine grit set on the other. I cut the paper to just less than 3 inches wide so I could mount all four grits on one side of the glass. I use this mainly for chisels. What's nice about it is that I've got the glass piece stored in a plastic box I got at an artist supply store and it sits on the shelf above my workbench. When I need to touch up the edge to my chisel, I pull it out, grab my spray water bottle and in a few strokes, have the edge back to being scary. I confess I use a chisel holder to do this - I know the 'big kids' don't need that crutch and can just find the right angle.

I read an article about sharpening in either Fine Woodworking or Woodsmith that suggested that for chisels, it makes sense that the chisel have two angles - the final cutting angle at the tip (most of mine are 30 deg) and a smaller angle for the rest of the blade. So once that 'base angle' is set then using the scary sharp sandpaper method, starting with the coarsest grit, will give you a tip that's about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Its also important to flatten the back. The Stumpy Nubs video mentioned above goes into this, as I recall. BTW, I have no relationship with Rockler other than being a usually satisfied customer...
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BTW, I have no relationship with Rockler other than being a usually satisfied customer...
Like you, I'm a fan of Rockler. Bought both my Laguna saws through them and on the band saw, they didn't have one on hand, so the manager of an Orange County store loaded it into his truck and ferried it out to the Ontario store.

As to sharpening, I keep a fine diamond "stone" around just for touchups I do with every chisel immediately after using it. About 5-6 strokes does the trick. I don't do my hand planes that often, except for my block plane, which gets a fair amount of use.

Good to emphasize flattening the back. Only have to do it once, but what a difference it makes.
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