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David
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I'm building a Curly Maple and Purpleheart audio rack and the front edge of the Curly Maple needs to be pristine. When I tried to run it across the straight knives of my jointer a while back it did what I expected it to do - it chipped. So I ordered a Shelix cutterhead but they were back ordered and it just came in a few days ago.

The install of these is well documented so I won't bother with that except to show a few photos, the most significant being the huge drop in sound level. I wear hearing protection at all times when equipment is running in the shop but it's still cool that the sound dropped this much. The before and after sound tests were on the same piece of Walnut, 6" wide (the capacity of my jointer) and about 11" long, rough side straight off the sawmill for both tests. I took the board from rough to smooth and recorded the highest sound for before and after.

001 - Shelix cutterhead - PM54a jointer.JPG

007 - Installed Shelix cutterhead.JPG

006 - Sound level - before and after Shelix cutterhead install.jpg

David
 

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John
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WOW. That is a big difference in sound levels
 
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Ross
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Good outcome David.
 
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I was not aware of the noise level difference, seems very significant. Wish I had those cutters myself
 

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Comparing decibel levels;

70 Arbitrary base of comparison. Same noise as a domestic vacuum cleaner. Upper 70s are annoyingly loud to some people

80 2 times as loud as 70 dB. Possible damage in 8 h exposure.

100 8 times as loud as 70 dB. Serious damage possible in 8 hr exposure.

A very good reduction for the neighbours, but dont take off the hearing protection while using it.
 

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David
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Discussion Starter #7
Comparing decibel levels;

70 Arbitrary base of comparison. Same noise as a domestic vacuum cleaner. Upper 70s are annoyingly loud to some people

80 2 times as loud as 70 dB. Possible damage in 8 h exposure.

100 8 times as loud as 70 dB. Serious damage possible in 8 hr exposure.

A very good reduction for the neighbours, but dont take off the hearing protection while using it.
Thanks for pointing this out, Bob. Most folks don't realize the difference in dB levels is exponential, not linear.

Our shop (two-car garage) is well insulated and on the front of the house where people walk by on the sidewalk, and even though my neighbors know I do woodworking (I give them gifts :wink:) they have never heard any equipment running. I know because I've asked.

The DeWalt 735 planer and my 50-year old circular saw are probably the best candidates for noise outside the shop. I need to check those but I wouldn't be surprised to find they're in the 115 dB range.

David
 

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Its THE most stupid scale of measurement I've ever come across. Even worse than PH tests because the measurement has to be taken at a certain distance from the sound. Move back 5 years and you get a completely different number..

A very loud motorcycle with open pipes comes in at around a 105db. But 60 is normal conversation and 25 is a whisper.

I'm lucky in that there is a 100 yards to my nearest neighbour because I cant sound insulate my single car garage workshop. I have a roll up door at each end. If I know they are home, I keep the doors closed, and thats the best they'll get.
 

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David I did the same with my 8" Powermatic jointer but ran into a bit of a snag and was happy that I had hired a tool repair guy to install the Shelix head. Seems my jointer is a transitional unit made during the switch from made in the USA to overseas and there was a mix of parts evidently during the transition. Seems the bearing housing was slightly different and I would have had no idea what to do if it wasn't for Greg being there, Adjustments made and tested out fantastically. And yes the noise level dropped considerably, cut quality improved even though the knives were relatively new and sharp, but the effort to pass the board over was increased somewhat and that made sense to me considering the difference in the cutters/knives. But I think I was making too aggressive a pass before and have taken the approach of making more lighter passes to achieve the flat side now days. The only complaint I had was that the Shelix sticker didn't adhere well to the jointer itself.......and maybe the cost. But I don't regret it all.
 

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Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.
 

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So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut? I've been thinking about getting one for my old Porter 12 inch jointer, but they're pretty pricy, and I haven't found anything with just the right shaft diameter and length. I'll probably have to do lathe work and may be change the bearings. I had converted this machine from babbet bearings to high speed ball bearings with oil lubrication several years ago. I'd consider changing to the insert head just because I don't like sending the blades out for sharpening, waiting, paying, and finally a half day of re setting the blades.

Art S
 

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David
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Discussion Starter #12
Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.
Yes, actually, it's not as good now. I guess the little chips are smaller and they seem to come out from everywhere. I may do a little duct tape work on the gaps in the sheet metal to prevent that.

So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut?

Art S
I sharpened my own blades before so that wasn't an issue for me. The cut is very good, very smooth, but it was also very smooth with sharp knives before. I guess the advantage is now I can rotate the knives 90° and get fresh edges very quickly without doing any setup work like I had to do before.

On this figured wood the cut is glass smooth where it had chunks taken out before, so for this wood it's night and day different.

David
 

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Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.
I have a Grizzly clone of the DJ 20, with a shelix head. There is a gap between the infeed table and body of the jointer. This gap allows a lot of chips to escape the DC. I have seen a few "fixes" on you tube, but since I would rather cut wood, I just sweep.
 

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David
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Discussion Starter #15
Is it wicked for me to have jointer envy?
If I could ever find an 8" Powermatic for a reasonable amount I know where you can find a 6" with new Shelix head to cure that envy... :wink:

David
 

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I have a Grizzly clone of the DJ 20, with a shelix head. There is a gap between the infeed table and body of the jointer. This gap allows a lot of chips to escape the DC. I have seen a few "fixes" on you tube, but since I would rather cut wood, I just sweep.
Just to compare experiences, The long soft wood chips coming out of my old 12 inch jointer (sometimes 8 to 10 inches long) can clog up the intake of of my 5 inch dust collector tubing, but the little 1/2 inch chips from my 20 inch planer never have a problem. Both are connected with 10 feet of hose to my home made dust blower made from an old farm machine's grain separator fan.

I live in the country, so I just blow the chips out into a pile behind the shop. People sometimes come to get them for animal bedding.
 

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So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut? I've been thinking about getting one for my old Porter 12 inch jointer, but they're pretty pricy, and I haven't found anything with just the right shaft diameter and length. I'll probably have to do lathe work and may be change the bearings. I had converted this machine from babbet bearings to high speed ball bearings with oil lubrication several years ago. I'd consider changing to the insert head just because I don't like sending the blades out for sharpening, waiting, paying, and finally a half day of re setting the blades.

Art S
I thought I'd show a few photos of my old Porter 12 inch jointer. Please excuse the dirt and clutter, but it's a working shop and ... OK no excuses?.

The machine had babbitt bearings originally, so after re shimming a few times with only moderate success, I Sawed the babbitt holder castings off with my Sawzall, and ground the surfaces flat with a 9 inch hand held Milwaukee grinder. I had a machine shop buddy make the rectangular blocks seen in the photo, bolted them on using 2 of the holes tapped for the old bearing cap, then installed the new self aligning ball bearings. any vertical errors in mounting the bearings were easily adjusted out using the elaborate 4 corner independent height adjustment on each table. Turning the hand wheel moves all 4 wedges at once as they are all linked together.

People have guessed that it weighs nearly a ton. I made a heavy duty, very low, foot pedal lift, dolly to enable moving it around the shop.h
 

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Super Moderator
David
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Discussion Starter #19
Is there a way to rearrange my photos into the sequence I want them in?

Art
Try these tips, Art -

Here are some photo posting tips if you’re taking photos with your phone or iPad – the best way for proper orientation is to shoot landscape (widescreen). Rotate your phone or iPad CCW for proper orientation. If you want your photos to be portrait then open the photo in a viewer on your computer, rotate it to the orientation you want, then save it in that orientation. It will be correct when you upload it to the servers here. If you’re shooting video please shoot widescreen like our monitors, not portrait.

The best way to post photos in line with your text is to use Go Advanced below the Quick Reply window. If you’re starting a new thread then you’re automatically in the Advanced editor. Click on the Paper Clip on the ribbon bar and that will bring up a dialogue box where you can browse to your photos. Upload them and then put your cursor where you want a photo, hit the dropdown beside the Paper Clip, and choose the photo you want inserted. If you have several photos and just want them at the end of your text then put your cursor at the end and hit the Insert All on the dropdown list of photos.

Always post a photo rather than a link; most folks won't click on a link.

David
 

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Try these tips, Art -

Here are some photo posting tips if you’re taking photos with your phone or iPad – the best way for proper orientation is to shoot landscape (widescreen). Rotate your phone or iPad CCW for proper orientation. If you want your photos to be portrait then open the photo in a viewer on your computer, rotate it to the orientation you want, then save it in that orientation. It will be correct when you upload it to the servers here. If you’re shooting video please shoot widescreen like our monitors, not portrait.

The best way to post photos in line with your text is to use Go Advanced below the Quick Reply window. If you’re starting a new thread then you’re automatically in the Advanced editor. Click on the Paper Clip on the ribbon bar and that will bring up a dialogue box where you can browse to your photos. Upload them and then put your cursor where you want a photo, hit the dropdown beside the Paper Clip, and choose the photo you want inserted. If you have several photos and just want them at the end of your text then put your cursor at the end and hit the Insert All on the dropdown list of photos.

Always post a photo rather than a link; most folks won't click on a link.

David
Thanks David. I'll try that. My photos were transferred to router forums OK, just in a random sequence.

So I can post videos here? I don't know if I can figure that out, but I've got lots of short vids about gluing up and turning my multi species bowl.
 
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