[jerrymayfield]

Do any of you use shellac?, premixed or mix your own, what colors, what do you think of shellac.

regards
jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

I think shellac is one of the most useful finishes available,it has been in use for thousands of years. In addtion to its other attributes it is very resistant to water vapor.

regards
jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

Julie, the first thing anyone sees of your projects is the finish. As Bob Flexner says finishing is very easy,just the take the ingredients from the can and apply to the wood.

regards
jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

While it may not be easy, with a little help, it can be made enjoyable.

regards
jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

You do not need a spray gun to get get good finishes. Try using an alkd or phenolic resin varnish instead of that polyurethane varnish and your finishes will be clearer and not darken as much. As an added benefit you will have less sanding,the reason you must sand between each coat of polyurethane varnish is because it has adhesion problems and doesn't even adhere to itself well. There is a whole world of finishing out there away from the big box stores (Home Depot,Lowes etc.)

Regards

Jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

The mixing proportions are not difficult when you just think of the numbers,and ignore the old pound cut description.A thin mix (1lb cut) is 16 ounces of shellac to one gallon -128 oz- or a ratio of 8 to 1. One quart of alcohol -32oz- mixed with 4oz shellac flakes is also a 1lb cut. What I usually do is loosely fill a small mason jar half way with flakes and finish filling with alcohol.Since i pad on most of the shellac I use I want the first application to be thick, I then add more alcohol. If you brush or spray use the 8 to 1 ratio per lb/cut. And what ever you do use some of the less refined flakes to add some natural color to your work. Once you get used to using shellac you will enjoy its many benefits.
Regards
Jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

Berry, I missed some of your post. Most of the time it isn't necessary to use an addtional sealer, the first coat of any finish is a sealer, on a few woods,such as cherry,maple & birch pigment stain tends to blotch and a wash coat of shellac is useful there. If you don't want to add any color use super,or ultra blonde.If you like golden oak stain on oak,substitute orange shellac,its cheaper and dries in about a half hour.

Regards

Jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

GoonMan: I can't tell what wood you are using or what you want the finish to be,except dark. Waterlox original finish is a phenolic resin- tung oil varnish. The original sealer is their finish thinned with with MS to make a wiping varnish (there really isn't any reason for you to buy any of the wiping varnish -make your own ). I don't think there is any reason to use the shellac under the Waterlox varnish although you could. This is a very tough varnish( but it is pricey) it was originally sold to schools as a gym floor finish. If I had a little more info perhaps I would see the reason for the shellac.

Regards

Jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

As Mr. Flexner says finishing is,or ought to be, a simple thing. Take the material from a container and apply to the wood.

Regards
Jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

I answered this post but it seems to have disappeared. There isn't any reason to use anything other than the Waterlox Original Finish, it is more than good enough for any table.If you want to try shellac get a sampler pack and denatured alcohol and have at it. A couple of sources for shellac are Homestead Finishing Products and shellac.net. The big box stores are a good source for alcohol and boiled linseed oil.

Regards
Jerry