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shop-made router lift using drawer slides: any play / wiggle?

11K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  mrblint  
#1 ·
An aftermarket router lift is not in my budget at the moment, and I've been looking at several designs on YouTube.


  1. an inclined plane design with roller bearings;
  2. an all-wood version that relies on wooden slides in a slot and uses wooden gears;
  3. one that uses a steel wire on pulleys;
  4. one that has the chassis riding up and down on drawer slides.

My question relates to the drawer slides. Is there going to be some lateral play that shows up at the cutting bit as runout? Or is there a good brand of drawer slide with almost no side-to-side play?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Mechanically- Like many DYI materials, a single drawer slide is not precision and has play, but...

That depends on how many drawer slides you use and while using multiples of drawer slides "together," using them to take up the play in each other. Example: pushing each against each other to take up that play. (Properly Braced to take out the flexibility factors)

You could do the same by creating opposing wooden grooves and splines... to create a vertical splines protruding off in your motor mount and vertical tracks for them to slide in.

Still, the basic design of a wedge underneath the motor mount to raise and lower it, with the wedge pushed or pulled by a piece of all-thread is a design that is hard to beat for simplicity and effectiveness.

But realistically, me using a standard router base in my tables, I really can't justify where "I" need to build a a router lift for myself. (IMHO) No problems with play in those. No limits beyond that, that I need to adjust to. I don't see where I'd gain anything for the extra cost and what little it would add in functionality. My routers lift right out for easy access.

Anyone else have a different perspective on that?
 
#3 · (Edited)
I use a plunge in my table so no lift and I like to be able to lift it out when I change bits just like Mike does. That is a much easier job with the router laying on its side. It also allows to make a rough height adjustment and then I only need to fine tune when it is back in the table.

What Mike suggested about using wooden or metal slides will work. I would try wood I think, probably would make dovetail splines. For a lift you could use a scissor jack and then once in position I would lock it in place by screwing a bolt against one of the splines.
 
#5 ·
If an after market lift may not be in the budget now then I would just let it go. There are some things that shouldn't be made and this is one of them. For under $100 dollars you can buy a Router Raizer brand which will give you the precision you need. Don't waste your time or money on something that will not work perfectly. Put $3.00 dollars away each week and buy yourself one for Christmas.
 
#11 · (Edited)
i've been going back and forth on a lift. my router (the cheapest ryobi 1/4" made) allows for above table height adjustment, which is great. but changing bits is a pain, even though the whole thing pops out because it's on an inerts plate.

that is why i want something different.

this one is really good, and it is designed to be able to adjust out any play. This, plus a $13 plate from Grizzly, will set you put and end up costing much less than $100.

Router Jig: Router Lift | Woodsmith Plans

i am working on a design for a lift that uses this technique for taking out the play, but is not attached to the plate, so that i can have the table top on a hinge and lift that up to make changing bits easy.
 
#13 ·
I've read through all the replies this morning, and want to thank you guys for responding. I already have a router, so buying a new Trend is out, for now, and I am also trying to do things without spending major $$, since I've been saving for a bandsaw. I may go with wooden splines instead of drawer rails, and the inclined plane approach. But I might try to mount the chassis as a stalagmite, so to speak, on the floor of the router cabinet rather than as a stalactite hanging from the top.