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The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know. So, in line with shopping for a new fence and after much deliberation and soul searching, I came to the realization that it is necessary to get a new saw. In particular, I’ve been looking into contractor and hybrid models and for my budget, the top picks would be Ridgid R4512 and Grizzly 0771Z.

I’m leaning more towards the Ridgid since it’s readily available at a big orange store, about 30% cheaper than the Grizzly and easier to pay off; there are certain things I’ve read about it that concern me somewhat, but I’d like some input from the community first.


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Depends on what your concerns are with the Ridgid. Several of the members here (me included) have the Bosch 4100-09 and are pleased with it. That's not the newer model with the safety feature (REAXX). The -09 means it has the gravity rise stand. I bought a used one a few years ago, after much searching and deliberation to replace an older 8" Beaver I had for many years. TBH, I took it off the stand and built my own stand. If you have limited space, the gravity rise stand comes in handy as you can fold the saw/stand up and roll it into a corner. I really deliberated on getting a cabinet saw, but couldn't justify the price and even used ones (unisaw, General) on Kijiji (Canada) are priced high in my area.

I should have mentioned that you could check out CPO Outlets as they have a Bosch 4100-10 with stand for $599. or a 4100-RT (no stand) reconditioned for $349.

https://www.cpooutlets.com/on/deman...-Show?q=table saw&srchSrc=br&fq=brand:"Bosch"
 

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I have the 4100...
and it to be applauded...
 
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Doug
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Reaxx not available in the US anymore (thanks, SawStop…..)

I have an older Craftsman Hybrid, like the Grizzly it has the enclosed base, and I love it. It's over 400 lbs, it came with a big table extension on the right hand side and I added a deep outfeed table. Needless to say, it doesn't get moved often, and takes up a lot of floor space.

I hadn't seen this grizzly (I don't need a TS right now...) but it looks like a nice saw

 

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The big things to look for in portable saws are "will it take a full dado blade stack", "are the miter slots the full standard dimension of 3/4 X 3/8", and "is the arbor shaft 5/8" diameter"? Most won't take a full dado stack, and few have accurate standard 3/4 X 3/8 miter slots, although some are close, but not a proper fit for a standard miter gauge bar.

Most of these saws use a high speed drill type motor that screams when it's running and none of these saws seem to have any really good saw dust control. It is possible to cut dados with routers, so having dado capability isn't a deal breaker, but it's a nice feature. A Ryobi BT-3000 saw that I once used would take about a half stack of dado blades, so 3/8" dados were possible with it, but it sure did scream because of the type motor in it. It didn't even have a miter slot, so commonly available jigs couldn't be used on it without extensive modification. I've heard that the present DeWalt saws have inaccurately sized miter slots, so again, available jigs won't work well on them.

Older "Contractor Saws" have motors hanging out the back and these motors are much quieter induction motors with better speed control at the proper rated blade speeds, but none seem to have any good method of controlling saw dust issues, but all of these that I've seen can take a full dado blade stack. Be careful to avoid the pre 1950's saws with 1/2" arbor sizes, because finding blades for them is now nearly impossible. You can get bushings to make 5/8 arbor blades work, but they are hard to keep in place when changing blades and get lost in the saw dust easily.

The older Delta Contractor Saws use a specially made motor that produces 1.5 hp on 120 volt power to keep it's running current rating below the common 15 amp rating of construction site circuit power, but will produce a full 2 hp when connected to 240 volt power. All have 5/8" arbors and can take full dado stacks. The Delta 34-444 model that I found for my son has proven to be every bit as accurate and capable as my Unisaw once we cleaned it up and calibrated it. Any one of the 34-4__ series seems to be the same saw with tiny year to year changes. I think they incremented the model number each year that they were in production, so any one of them should prove to be a good and accurate saw once cleaned up and calibrated.

I have no experience with the newer Bosch Contractor Type Portable saws, but other's recommendations on them would have me leaning toward one of them if I wanted to buy a new portable saw. The included folding stand is a nice feature in this saw too.

Charley
 

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I'd be inclined toward the Grizzly hybrid. I have a Laguna and really like using it, and it's very close to the Grizzly design. I'm not really much of a fan of contractor saws, and yet, would not be unhappy with the Bosch 4100.
 

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You can get bushings to make 5/8 arbor blades work, but they are hard to keep in place when changing blades and get lost in the saw dust easily.
Things like that are the reason I keep a large speaker magnet on a string in the shop.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Based on what I learned so far about the R4512, it’s a hybrid saw masquerading as a contractor type. At a price point of <$700, it’s impossible to beat.

The high points are belt drive, iron cast table with extension wings, full length 5/8” arbor, under 300 lbs weight, portability, lifetime service (if bought at HD) and, of course, the price tag. The low points would be the common issues people complain about, such as getting a lemon with uneven table, 3-wheel system, sloppy fence and the dust collection isn’t the greatest. I can live with the wheels (don’t need them TBH, not planning to move the saw around) and the fence since I’ll change it to the W1410 anyway, but will definitely bring a straight edge to the store for checking the table before buying. Plus, as opposed

I thought that perhaps someone has/had it and could provide some 1st hand perspective.


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B...but will definitely bring a straight edge to the store for checking the table before buying.
I got a bowed wing on my Laguna, and they replaced the whole darn saw. Drove to thier warehouse and they had a new saw all setup. Brought out a stainless steel machined straight edge and feeler gauges. One spot was out fifteen thousandths, which to all intents and purposes is considered flat. So pack along some feeler gauges too.
 

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The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know. So, in line with shopping for a new fence and after much deliberation and soul searching, I came to the realization that it is necessary to get a new saw. In particular, I’ve been looking into contractor and hybrid models and for my budget, the top picks would be Ridgid R4512 and Grizzly 0771Z.

I’m leaning more towards the Ridgid since it’s readily available at a big orange store, about 30% cheaper than the Grizzly and easier to pay off; there are certain things I’ve read about it that concern me somewhat, but I’d like some input from the community first.


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I love my Grizzly 0771Z! I share my shop with a contractor and between us we use the he** out of that saw. It stays in adjustment, the stock fence is accurate and easy to adjust, and the price was right for me. I'm not a fan of Rigid tools in general, so...
 

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I have the Bosch 4100-10. No real complaints though it has an aluminum, not cast iron table which I would much prefer.

It's very easy to move about on its stand. Easy to set up, and I've improved the dust collection by using an old photochemical developing tray secured with bungee straps under the motor area. It's wedged up tight so I get about 90% of the dust that falls below the table.

It's accurate, and I have zero clearance inserts for 10" regular and thin kerf blades and 7-1/4" blades.

Having said all that, I'm looking for a Grizzly cabinet saw with a 3 hp motor and keep the Bosch for outside building projects.

In your case though, I would opt for the Grizzly.
 

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Let be the naysayer. Stay away from anything and everything with the Grizzly name on it. Grizzly is basically Harbor Freight with a better advertising firm. You will be much better off in the long run on spending more for what is basically the most important tool you will ever buy. Decide if you want a contractor type saw or a cabinet type. They both do the same only the cabinet style will be more powerful, can handle bigger jobs and will certainly look better in the shop. The downside is the size and price but if you get a good saw it will last a lifetime and when ready to sell it will bring a much higher percentage of its original cost. If you can live with a contractor style then look for a cast iron Craftsman from the 70's or 80's with a 1 hp belt driven motor. You can pick one up for around $150.00 about what they cost new 40 years ago. A better choice would be a Delta Uni-Saw of the same era which can be had for about $700.Better yet a Powermatic 66 from the 90's for about 1,100 or 3/4 of what it cost new. If you really want a Grizzly then you should be able to pick up a 10-year-old Grizzly cabinet for about $400, a fraction of what it cost new or a contractor saw for about $125.00. You can't go wrong with quality but you can go wrong with choosing based on looks which is what Grizzly is very good at selling. Let the flames begin.
 

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If the saw is mechanically sound, then it's all about how well you set it up. I think it's wise to take a straight edge along to check out your saw's top before you buy it. That means getting the display model, which often are not well set up, and sometimes missing parts. You're probably going to get one in a shipping crate. If you check out the table and wings before assembling, and something's off, you'll find it easier to return it if necessary. One of the reasons I went with Laguna is that they insist that the Taiwanese "rest" the cast iron for at least 6 months before milling it. They also have really heavy duty trunions. If money were an issue when I bought it, I'd probably have gone with the Grizzly, which I'd considered at the time.

Rigid had a very nice middle sized, 6 inch jointer that I looked at long and hard. Reviews were really good, but I recall signing a new client and suddenly could afford the PowerMatic jointer.

I do remember how great it felt to finally have some top notch tools in my shop.
 

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I replaced my old Craftsman (1980 model) contractor saw about 3 - 4 years ago with a Ridgid R4512 and never regretted it. Huge improvement on everything from having dust collection(compared to none), better fence, less vibration compared to the Craftsman. Plus additional features like portable base and Riving knife!
I could not afford the higher end saws and also I am not a professional woodworker - I do quality work but it is a hobby-not my income. If it was my business, that would be a different story and would definitely go for a higher end saw.
But if your needs are not professional in nature I think you would be happy with the
Ridgid.
With that said, my saw is the only Ridgid tool I own. Most of my small power tools and routers are Bosch which I am also happy with.
 

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I also have the Bosch 4100 and I have absolutely no complaints. Like Vince I took mine off of the gravity rise stand and built my own cabinet for it. I actually sold the stand for $125 which made the saw price even cheaper. I don't think you would be unhappy with the 4100.
 

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I too am looking at a larger table saw ( I have the rigid R4516) and been looking at the R4512 but also Delta 36-725. Both look good and are able to move around since I have a small shop and I can park them against the wall and out of the way. The reviews on the delta and the rigid are about the same more good than bad and Lowes in my area carries Delta and it is cheaper. And having using Deltas Unisaws in the past and with no problems and with straight cuts I would not hesitate in buying a Delta
 

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Shopping for a new Table Saw.
I bought an old Emerson Craftsman unit several years ago for $50. The top and frame were intact, with no noticeable play. That leaves a lot of money for upgrades. A 2 hp 240 volt motor for starters, with a linked belt.
The base was given to a 6" belt sander rig, and I built a wood base, enclosed, and with a drop-down door for sawdust removal on the front. The cast iron top is perfect, with 3/4" X 3/8" miter channels. Wings are cast iron as well. Found a Vega fence (originally on a Powermatic) for another $50. Keep your eyes on places like Craigslist, especially near larger cities. We are all builders, in some fashion. I doubt that I have much more than $200 in the saw, and it cuts to accuracy in the few hundredths of an inch.
 
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