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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the 3rd version of the shoulder Plane. Input from an experienced wooden plane authority, I made some changes to improve the shoulder plane.

1. Enlarged handle so all 4 fingers would fit inside.

2.Remove the finger bumps inside the handle.

3. Tilt the handle 12°forward.

4. Make the bump on the back of the handle more rounded.

5. When I increased the size of the handle, I made the plane longer and higher to balance out the increase in handle size,

Here are the end results. It is much more comfortable,and seems easier to use.

The last pictures are the comparison of the first one with the latest one.



Herb
 

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Rick
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I don’t know much about planers , but that sure looks very ergonomically designed . Your certainly a true craftsman Herb . It’s unfortunate none of these millennials will ever have this skill set
 

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oh my...
WOW!!!

that is impressive...

KUDOS to you Herb..
 
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Beautiful job again Herb. The handle reminds me of an article I just read about the hang (handle angle) on high end tenon saws. Getting the angle right can make a big difference. Those varied from about 30 to 50 degrees. I think the idea is to split the force up between a balance of forward motion and downward pressure without having to consciously work at it.
 
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You certainly put a great deal of thought into your projects and use a logic that some of us seem to have lost or never had. As I start down the path of hand planes I told my wife that buying a tool such as a hand plane becomes personal. I need something that feels right both in size and feel. not too heavy but heavy enough for control, and then the actual look might have a bit of consideration. The actual ability and comfort are tops. As I start to have some hand/wrist issues which may be part of the shoulder replacement, sharp wrist pain that radiates to the fingertips and last a short while if I move it incorrectly, I need to be sure of comfort and purpose so the tool actually gets used. Fortunately the Stanley #62 low angle jack plane feels very comfortable for the short amount of use it's had. I have a vintage Stanley Bailey #4 coming Tuesday that I hope fits that bill as well.

As for the handle I thought the proper hand positioning was the index finger was outside the handle and pointed forward although maybe I'm thinking of the "other style" such as used on those 2 planes mentioned above. It's all a bit new to me.

Regardless, they are a work of art with a purpose and beautifully constructed. These are in a class of Artisan tools not likely to be found in most shops.
 

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WOW...not only building now but ergonomic design too...

One surprise after another...

Beautiful result...
 
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Wow Herb, that is a beautiful tool. The upgrades are really well thought out. I really love using a hand plane. Tried to make a wooden block plane a few years ago, but couldn't quite get it cut just right. Have a nice Hock iron laying about somewhere in the shop.
 

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Mike
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Herb great job.

I like the extra length on the front of the sole. That should help stabilize it in use.

I might need to make one once you get all the bugs worked out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Very well done! A real show piece. How does it work?
I tried it out when I set the iron, and it seems to do a good job. At first I was digging in and chattering the cut, but found that if I lightened up on the downward pressure it sailed right along.

If I was going to start a rabbet, I think I would have to clamp a straight edge on the board first. If I am cleaning up a rabbet I would just follow the cut.
But it has to be the same way the grain is running.

Herb
 

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Paul
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As soon as I read the title in my email, I thought "Herb's at it again". Nice looking plane, Herb. :)
 
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