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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I'm not sure how to clamp objects that I want to "flatten" with router skis - I know I have to clamp it from the sides, but I'm not sure how to do so securely. I would hate to have it become unclamped during routing. For instance, I would like to flatten this disc by passing my router over it...


Wacky maple by bobbotron1, on Flickr
 

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Hi Rob

I use a board with a matrix of tapped holes all over it. The tapped holes all use T-nuts to provide the threading. I've then got eccentric clamps that can be fitted on to the threaded holes that are most suitable, once the work piece has been laid upon it. The outer limits of the board provide the guidance for the skis.
Does this make sense?

Cheers

Peter
 

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One approach would be the work-holding jigs that many here use - essentially a support surface with a matrix of holes, into which a series of wooden cams can be inserted and turned to make contact with the work piece, and then screwed tight to the support surface. The matrix approach is often more secure than the typical three-point system used with bench dogs.

To keep the router's vertical position consistent, the router can be mounted on skis (lots of discussion about skis here), or mounted on an over-sized base that rides on a frame of some sort.
 

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Hi Bob

Just to add to Peter post, one picture is worth a 1000 words.


============

Hi all,

I'm not sure how to clamp objects that I want to "flatten" with router skis - I know I have to clamp it from the sides, but I'm not sure how to do so securely. I would hate to have it become unclamped during routing. For instance, I would like to flatten this disc by passing my router over it...


Wacky maple by bobbotron1, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey guys!

That's interesting, thanks for the info! Hrm, I get the idea... Bob, do you think you could post a photo of one of those oak cams unscrewed from board? And, is there a knob per cam on the underside to tighten down each cam?

I thought, another way to do it could be to have a number of verticle wooden clamps, attached to a table. I think that board would get less in the way of the skiis though.
 

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Hi Bob

I use Tee nuts on the back side of the board but it's not a must have item a simple dry wall screw will do the same job, screwed down to some scrap plywood..it's the off center hole that works on the cams lock blocks..

Just about any clamp will get the way of the router but the cams are below the edge of the lumber.

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Hey guys!

That's interesting, thanks for the info! Hrm, I get the idea... Bob, do you think you could post a photo of one of those oak cams unscrewed from board? And, is there a knob per cam on the underside to tighten down each cam?

I thought, another way to do it could be to have a number of verticle wooden clamps, attached to a table. I think that board would get less in the way of the skiis though.
 

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Hi all,

I'm not sure how to clamp objects that I want to "flatten" with router skis - I know I have to clamp it from the sides, but I'm not sure how to do so securely. I would hate to have it become unclamped during routing. For instance, I would like to flatten this disc by passing my router over it...



Wacky maple by bobbotron1, on Flickr
Whilst I have several cam boxes, in my humble opinion, pinning pieces of scrap material around the item is far simpler and very effective as I've shown in many of my threads, here is but one example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Bob

I use Tee nuts on the back side of the board but it's not a must have item a simple dry wall screw will do the same job, screwed down to some scrap plywood..it's the off center hole that works on the cams lock blocks..

Just about any clamp will get the way of the router but the cams are below the edge of the lumber.

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Ah, ok I get it now. It's morning here, and I took another look at your photo. I think I have some scrap plywood and jig hardware that would work well for this... :) Thanks!
 

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Hi all,

I'm not sure how to clamp objects that I want to "flatten" with router skis - I know I have to clamp it from the sides, but I'm not sure how to do so securely. I would hate to have it become unclamped during routing. For instance, I would like to flatten this disc by passing my router over it...
I see no-one replied so I thought I'd take a stab. I've used the rubberized drawer liner you can get at any household store to hold items to a workbench while routing. You just place the stuff on the workbench and then the item on that and it stays put. Same way that the Bench Cookies work.

If the stock is really thin or you're worried about it not staying put I'd build a small box/square around it via 1x1 stock, screwed into a flat board such as plywood, to hold it in place while skiing over it. That should trap it in place so it can't move.
 

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I see no-one replied so I thought I'd take a stab. I've used the rubberized drawer liner you can get at any household store to hold items to a workbench while routing. You just place the stuff on the workbench and then the item on that and it stays put. Same way that the Bench Cookies work.

If the stock is really thin or you're worried about it not staying put I'd build a small box/square around it via 1x1 stock, screwed into a flat board such as plywood, to hold it in place while skiing over it. That should trap it in place so it can't move.
Ok that's weird the page loaded at first without any replies...probably the work web filter being screwy.
 

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Hi Bob

Just to add to Peter post, one picture is worth a 1000 words.


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Bob,

Do you cut you cams from dowel stock or use a circle cutter?

I was thinking of using a large curtain rod to cut the cams?
 

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Curtain rods are usually pretty soft James. In the past I've used Jarrah dowel rod but it's very expensive, others I've routed. I'm sure that you've noticed that I rarely use cams these days, pinning bits of scrap around the work piece is so fast. Someone once suggested using a hole saw but, whilst that's fine, you do end up with two holes.
 

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I like the cams to be a bit larger so I use a hole saw (extra pilot hole doesn't hurt anything) and cut the cams from 1/2" plywood. If I need a taller cam, I just stack two of them. That works when I need space below the workpiece for through cuts also. I stack two cams, the bottom one rotated under the workpiece to raise it off the cam board and the top one against the edge of the workpiece to secure it in place.:)
 

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Hi Sir

I use Oak dowel rod, I take it to the chop saw (miter) and a stop block clamped in place and just cut off what I want,very easy and quick..than to the drill press and drill out the holes on the outer edge of the cam block..

In the picture you will see what I had left over from the dowel rod, ( up at the top in the center of the picture )

They work so much better than some scrap wood stock pinned to the board or screw to the board, as you know once you pin some wood to a board you will have a high spot on the board that must be sanded off flat b/4 you can use it one more time. a little turn and your stock is locked in place..

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Bob,

Do you cut you cams from dowel stock or use a circle cutter?

I was thinking of using a large curtain rod to cut the cams?
 

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"as you know once you pin some wood to a board you will have a high spot on the board that must be sanded off flat b/4 you can use it one more time. a little turn and your stock is locked in place.."

Not so with the cheap chipboard that I use Bob.
 
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