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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a newbie with T-tracks and I have some simple qestions about them.
Can I mount a pair of them on the side of the table and with some plastic sliders atache a U-shaped bridge betwene them and on top a router. What kind of sliders should they be to work properly? The table and the side will be birch plywood 18-20mm.
Is there a standard or must I stick to one producer? Who has most accessorys?

I'm not interested in routing T-tracks or slots or what is the name of it.
Thank's
 

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Dan, something went wrong with the last 2 links. Esko, I would try something like this, a miter track, and use the plastic strip for a guide Veritas® Miter Slot Extrusion - Lee Valley Tools

T track has a narrow opening and will be difficult to make work. You would just need to make the sled a good fit across the width so that there is just enough clearance to allow for easy sliding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thaznk's Dn and Charles.
I was thinking that the trak's would be tiltted 90deg so the chips etc. won't jam the slider. I don't have any experiense with these. Can't see your link's Dan.
Can those lee valey tracks be tilted on their side Charles?
 

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That was how I thought you would want to use them Esko. Place them on the edges and screw into the edge of the of the table. To use the sled you would slide it into the tracks from either end of the track's open ends. You could use them on the flat side too if you added boards under each end of the table and left enough sticking out from under the table to mount the miter tracks onto.
 

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Why not just make a set of router skis?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hello James. In my opinion router-ski's isn't the best solution when the work piece is 20x51" or bigger. The clamps require their own space and since repairing old windows or any other old "thing" you have to be careful and know all the time what you are doing so you don't destroy something. Besides with ski's I can't restrict the movement to a sertain part of the work. Do you see my point, James? If I wish to stop routing at an exact point I can do it with a table of my designe but doing it with router ski's... it's a mess. But with x and y motions I can do whatever I like with a pair of stopers.
 

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If I understand the conversation you want to make the equivalent of a set of skis that work in both the x and y directions. IF this is the case use 2 pieces of angle aluminum, with the inside of the angle sliding on the edges of the work-holder surface and form the "U" between them as a rail that the router can side over. This maintains the distance to workpiece in both X / Y directions and avoids T tracks altogether. Drilling holes in the top and adding a vacuum would keep the surface free of cast off.

Good Luck - Baker
 

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The miter track has a very small radius to the corner. If the plastic drags a little you could fix that by making a few strokes with sandpaper on the corners of the slider. Esko, you should be able to put these tracks on the flat if you want. When you move your sled back and forth the chips should get pushed out of the track without jamming just like on a table saw.
Esko, there is no reason why you couldn't make a table top, say from ply or mdf, and make some grooves near the edges for track (on the flat). You could make the slides out of hardwood. Hardwood slides work well, especially if you rub them with candle wax for lubricant. You can put a strip of kitchen counter top laminate in the bottom of the groove and it will work even better and last longer. This home made table would give you a chance to try your idea to see how well it works without spending a lot of money and, who knows, maybe you would not need to replace it if it worked very well.
 

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Esko-

As you started this thread, I had a picture in my head trying to figure out what you were trying to do. The picture in my head was as a precision x-y axis railed support for your router, suspending it over a piece of work... As this thread continues, you seem to be leaning closer to that picture I had in my head.

I use a planing jig. Besides doing planing, it can also be used for controlled x-y axis routing on large pieces. For the x-axis, I use rails that I built. They are "L" shaped. One leg of the "L" supports another jig, that slides along the tops of the rails. The other leg of the "L" is used to attach the rails to plywood. The rails consist of a pair of rails that I set up parallel to each other.

Between those rails, I use a modified dado jig (which we will now call a router support). The modification is that instead of the dado jig setup to be perpendicular to just the near edge... I set it up the router support to be perpendicular to the top edge of both rails.

So, the router support travels along the rails at an X-axis. The router travels across the dado jig in a y-axis. This router support bridges between the rails. Stops on this router support limit the y-axis travel across the work... Stops clamped to the rails limited the x-axis travel of the router support.

You can add more precision, to this, in steps in how the router support travels along the rails and how the router travels across the "jig"...

For t-track, jigs, mechanisms and loading... think outside the box. Turn the t-track upside down and use t-bolts with the threads extending up. Gravity and the t-nuts will help keep the tracks clear of shavings and sawdust by the t-nut wiping the debris out of the track and letting gravity do it's job. But this sliding joint could also be a spline joint, such as a dado (groove), a tongue & groove with the tongue facing up or a sliding dovetail, with the key facing up...

...So what you want to do, you really wouldn't need to start out with the extra cost of t-tracks or 8020 extrusions unless you really needed the extra precision and durability and you could afford the cost. (Especially in a prototype stage.) You could limit excess play in x-y axis movement in the jointing you use between the rails and the router support... x-axis = left-right travel. y-axis = across (to me or away) z-axis = height. You have experience with windows and sliding joints... (hint). Add in a plunge router to that and there you go...

I think that kind of setup would help with the type of work you are describing.

Do you need pictures of mine? There are pictures of mine in my uploads... But I could sort through them for you if that would help.

EDIT--

When I was building that jig, I was trying to replicate having manual x-y-z axis control, such as the Maxis Mulit-Axis Tool system (see attached). Of course that system was $10,000 and I could not afford nor justify, so I made something that I could afford and gave me "some" of those capabilities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Marellous!!
You are right I should think out of the box. i've put my self there with alla this thinking. Thank you very much. That would be great with pic's.
It's good not to have to pay any extra for track's and rail's if they are not nesessary.
Thank's again.
 

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Marellous!!
You are right I should think out of the box. i've put my self there with alla this thinking. Thank you very much. That would be great with pic's.
It's good not to have to pay any extra for track's and rail's if they are not nesessary.
Thank's again.
Esko-

I editted my last post... and here is the original post where I attached photo's of my planing jig, so you can get a visual of what I was talking about:
http://www.routerforums.com/294251-post24.html

<<Basic concept of trying to create a CNC "gantry" without CNC control ... manual>>
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Mike. That link opend me a rectangle with a txt:

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These touch screen's can be very anoying...
 

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