Very nice, Mark! And the statement above just means it's a well-built jig. I love building them and have at least a dozen that fall into that very category - hours to make, minutes to use.
David
Sliding Thin Rip Fence
Well, I just climbed out of another rabbit hole on my way to my real project. Up until now, I’ve avoided using splines (in favor of biscuits or dowels) due to the difficulty of fabricating them in a repeatable / safe manner with the tools I currently own. But my next project will be expensive enough (time & materials) I thought I should make it work. It was suggested on my previous thread I could re-saw splines from a sufficiently thick piece of stock on the TS (I need approx. 20 linear feet) …. so I acquired a suitable block of white oak for the job and became committed. Anyone with experience on an older Craftsmen rip fence knows the rest of this story.
Plan A: … Two trial run passes, spline against the fence (it’s too hard to adjust the fence to cut the spline on the outboard side), with a GR-Gripper … safer but not really safe enough, not really fine tunable to any slot cutter, ¼” thickness min. (I had one of those Rockler thin rip jigs. I had to give it away … I could never get it to lock into the miter). So on to Plan B and the scrap pile.
Plan B: … Fix the problem (although a new TS was not an option). Make a sliding rip fence which uses the miter slot for alignment; carries the piece with it so I can stay away from that sharp spinning thing; is EASY to move laterally while maintaining square to the miter slot; and loses no depth of cut. The results came out well, the first cut-offs were uniform in thickness both between pieces and along the piece (as much as I could tell with my Vernier). Its capacity is limited to stock only as wide as the blade to miter slot minus ¾”.
Fence Highlights:
Thin Rip Jig Highlights:
Unfortunately, I probably spent more time designing and building it than I will be using it
Plan A: … Two trial run passes, spline against the fence (it’s too hard to adjust the fence to cut the spline on the outboard side), with a GR-Gripper … safer but not really safe enough, not really fine tunable to any slot cutter, ¼” thickness min. (I had one of those Rockler thin rip jigs. I had to give it away … I could never get it to lock into the miter). So on to Plan B and the scrap pile.
Plan B: … Fix the problem (although a new TS was not an option). Make a sliding rip fence which uses the miter slot for alignment; carries the piece with it so I can stay away from that sharp spinning thing; is EASY to move laterally while maintaining square to the miter slot; and loses no depth of cut. The results came out well, the first cut-offs were uniform in thickness both between pieces and along the piece (as much as I could tell with my Vernier). Its capacity is limited to stock only as wide as the blade to miter slot minus ¾”.
Fence Highlights:
- Lateral rail movement controlled using 2 opposing (1 adjustable) 30deg (dovetail like) fixed matching rails. To minimize friction, I put 2 “bearing” oak shims between the base and the moveable rail (hence it’s slightly higher than the fixed ones). All contacting surfaces waxed well.
- The entire fence unit will move along the miter slot or can be locked in position using the wedges into the miter rail slot at each end. Miter rail is stock maple, screwed to the full edge of the base … runs smoother than the ones I put on the crosscut sleds.
- The whole project hinged on an “adjustable” paint sticks “idea” to hold the stock (I wanted to keep it thin and blade friendly). Partial success – forward and down, ok; but it had a tendency to flex the piece out on backing the fence away … so, double sided tape too, I can live with that.
Thin Rip Jig Highlights:
- The 2 pieces slide against each other on 1/8” aluminum bar stock which was CA glued to the moveable piece.
- A repurposed an old rabbiting bit bearing for the guide, which happened to fit nicely onto a piece of ¼” drill rod.
- Miter lock … threw away the aluminum bar that comes those Rockler kits and replaced it with a 1.5” maple miter block, drilled for the expansion bolt and split on one end up to the hole. It expands and holds nicely. The extra oak piece is just for alignment.
- Added bonus … intrusive enough to block the cutoff coming back.
Unfortunately, I probably spent more time designing and building it than I will be using it
Attachments
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Fence Modifications
A few modifications were made. The results were better (uniformity) on the inside cutoffs if I ripped the splines first without cutting them off until last so I put away the thickness gauge and added an indexer to the back of the fence. I'm adding about 1/2" scrap to the cutoff. The paint stick holders were replaced by 1/4" rod. The rod mounts pivot so location of matching holes in the stock is not critical. I still have non-destructive ends for the rods if needed.
A few modifications were made. The results were better (uniformity) on the inside cutoffs if I ripped the splines first without cutting them off until last so I put away the thickness gauge and added an indexer to the back of the fence. I'm adding about 1/2" scrap to the cutoff. The paint stick holders were replaced by 1/4" rod. The rod mounts pivot so location of matching holes in the stock is not critical. I still have non-destructive ends for the rods if needed.
Attachments
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
