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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have loads of drill bits lying around in various packets and boxes so I decided to make a couple of small pine chests with shallow drawers to get them organised.

The cases just have rebate joints at the corners, glued and reinforced with a few nails. Then I rounded over all the edges on the router table after assembling the case. The rebates for the back panel were cut before assembly. The overall size of each case is 30x20x20cm (12"x8"x8").

The drawers are of the style where the plywood bottom extends past the drawer sides, to act as runners in slots. Rather than cut the slots directly in the case sides, I opted to make separate runner panels out of plywood that will get screwed inside the cases. I routed the slots in one long strip of plywood then cross-cut it into the 4 separate runner pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The drawers... first up we have the 10 drawer fronts, 5 for each chest. Each one has a rebate at the bottom to receive the drawer base, and rebates at the ends that will receive the sides. Plus holes and counterbores for the handles.

Then 10 sets of sides and backs - all sawn to length, ends shot and planed to width by hand. I need a cup of tea after that!

The final picture shows the assembly of the drawers. The bottom is glued into the rebate on the front and nailed from underneath. The strip of paper is just a guide to remind me not to put any nails where holes for the drawer handles are. The sides and backs of the drawers are glued and nailed from underneath in the same way.
 

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Finishing touches... the handles are cut from a leather belt blank and attached using these fixings that are called binding screws or Chicago screws. Even with these specialist fasteners it works out a pretty cheap way of handling a lot of drawers. One thing I did discover is that you have to be precise about punching the holes in the leather. A small difference in the length of the strap makes a big difference in how far it stands out from the drawer front, so it's easy to end up with visibly uneven handles if you're not careful.

The fold-flat carry handles on the tops of the chests are made from more leather strips, with brackets made from coat hanger wire.

The finish is "antique pine" tinted Danish oil with a final coat of wax over the top. I didn't bother oiling the insides of the drawers, those are just waxed.
 

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DANG..... Andy, this project turned out great!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #5
This is another small drawer chest I made a while ago. Again the construction is pretty simple but I thought I'd post it as the drawer construction may be of interest. These are side-run false-front drawers. It's a very quick method that I think would scale well to a project that needs a lot of lightweight drawers.

The fronts and bottoms are just rectangles of 1/4" ply, no machining required. All cut to the width of the drawer box minus 1/2".
The sides are 1/2" ply. All the machining is on these parts, and it can all be done with one bit and one height setting in the router table, and only fence adjustments. The depth of cut is 1/4". 3 edges get a 1/4" wide rebate to receive the fronts and bottoms of the drawers. Then on the outside faces, there's a dado for the drawer runners.

I just glued them together, for drawers this small you don't even need nails really.
 

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Finishing touches... the handles are cut from a leather belt blank and attached using these fixings that are called binding screws or Chicago screws. Even with these specialist fasteners it works out a pretty cheap way of handling a lot of drawers. One thing I did discover is that you have to be precise about punching the holes in the leather. A small difference in the length of the strap makes a big difference in how far it stands out from the drawer front, so it's easy to end up with visibly uneven handles if you're not careful.

The fold-flat carry handles on the tops of the chests are made from more leather strips, with brackets made from coat hanger wire.

The finish is "antique pine" tinted Danish oil with a final coat of wax over the top. I didn't bother oiling the insides of the drawers, those are just waxed.
absolutely 1st rate Andy...
 
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whoa...
you do some realy fine work Andy...
 
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Really nice work, very practical and both chests are handsome indeed. I like the look of a raw baltic birch edge on the drill bit chest. One thought about the leather is that by elongating the punched hole slightly, the straps could lay flat, but when you pull on them, they would stand out a bit. But the leather straps are perfect for a shop cabinet.
 

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Wow, Andy. You do some really nice work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
One thought about the leather is that by elongating the punched hole slightly, the straps could lay flat, but when you pull on them, they would stand out a bit.
That's a good idea, it would work well I think. You'd need to put a bit of thread-lock on the binding screws, since you wouldn't be tightening them down hard.
 

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Well executed Andy. I am still stuck on how to organize my drill bits.
 

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Dang Andy if you didn't live so far away I would come over and take lessons from you. I am impressed.
 

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Great ideas and work, Andy.
 

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Final thought on this project. Fully loaded, this thing is going to be heavy and the top strap will be stressed. I would consider routing an elongated, stopped dado on the sides as an alternative lifting method And tipped forward or dropped, the drawers will want to come out, so I'd consider drilling an eighth inch hold down through side slides with a piece of wire slipped into it to lock the drawers in place. This might not be necessary, but I'd hate to have to sort out a spill. Just thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was just thinking that I'd have trouble remembering what was in which drawer. Remember the old library card catalog with the metal label holders on the front? Found some on Amazon. You can also get them with a small pull tab on them. Here's just one I found on Amazon. Amazon.com: Office Library 60x17mm File Drawer Tag Label Holder Copper Tone 20 Pcs: Home & Kitchen
Final thought on this project. Fully loaded, this thing is going to be heavy and the top strap will be stressed. I would consider routing an elongated, stopped dado on the sides as an alternative lifting method And tipped forward or dropped, the drawers will want to come out, so I'd consider drilling an eighth inch hold down through side slides with a piece of wire slipped into it to lock the drawers in place. This might not be necessary, but I'd hate to have to sort out a spill. Just thinking.
Thanks Tom, some more interesting ideas to mull over there.
The weight on the carry strap won't be a problem, I did some testing on the design and it will lift much more weight than I can fit in these. The lack of any catch or lock on the drawers is a shortcoming though. I figured if I ever need to transport them any distance I'd tie a string round it :)
 

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I didn't manage to come up with a good design for repositionable dividers,
peg board as the drawer bottoms and dividers w/ pegs on the bottom side/edge of the dividers that plug into the peg board...
socket head set screws make great pegs...
#6 truss headed screws and 1/8'' peg board is a good combination too....
 
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