I am fairly new to woodworking, been at it 8 months or so.
When I first started buying tools, I purchased a new "Toughest" Brand Router for $40.
It a very powerful no frills router, and has never given me mechanical trouble. The problem is the weight and visibility of the wood. It must weigh 20 lbs or more, I can't find the weight in the manual.
I cannot cut a straight dado if my life depended on it with this router. After an hour of trying .. I am finished for the day.
If I purchased a newer lighter plunge router would it improve my cuts ?
Any thoughts about a lightweight plunge router ? I don't build houses or boats ..
I am building a closet organizer and shelves which will require a fair amount of edge routing. Next project is a Kamado barque table.
I do have a router table mount in my workbench, with a Porter Cable 690RL .. a very nice table routing setup. I use the table when ever I can. My results with the table have improved quickly. But there are times when I need a plunge router. Like the other day, I got 48" x 96" 1" MDF board very cheap at Lowes the other day. I had them cut it 4 24" x 48" boards. I planed to use these for sled bases. I tried to cut shallow dado's for the runners. I used clamped 2x4 as a guide, the "toughest" router was all over the place, I wound up with a mess.
I also have two buffalo "Trimrbx" routers; why 2 ?; parts, the "ultra light" base and adjustment broke on the first one, at $25 each, it was easier to buy another. I used them for some edge work, but that is all I can do with them.
"If I purchased a newer lighter plunge router would it improve my cuts ?"
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I doubt it. Lightest US plunge probably the new 1/4" trimmer x Bosch, if you'd like to try.
Why so much trouble trying to rout? See the 7 steps to get some control of things.
Hi Fred, I would suggest incorrect feed direction as most of the problem if you are using jointed, straight 2x4 as a guide.
With incorrect feed direction, the router will tend to move away from the guide. With correct feed direction the cutter will try to move toward the guide and be held tight up against the guide.
Not trying to be smart here but some people are better off with a tablesaw and dado blade.
A light router is not easier to control unless your idea of control is to manhandle something. Trash all the routers except the PC, read a book on the use of routers, purchase a decent router made for plunge operation and not a dual purpose unit. Most items from SUVs to routers do one thing very good and the other OK. Read the book first, then decide.
Since you already have a PC 690, you could get the plunge base for that router. The 690 is a nice lightweight router. I have one myself for cutting dovetails with my PC dovetail guide. I just received a copy of the Ultimate Router Handbook from Woodsmith and they recommended the Precision Router Dado Jig from Infinity. I don't have any direct experience with this jig. Most of the other quick handmade jigs I have seen use 2 guides, one on each side of the router to make sure it does not wander as it might from trying to hold the heavy router against a single guide rail.
Keep in mind that a heavier router actually gives you more control over your cut with less effort. If you are having difficulties making an edge cut there is something wrong with your method. Are you using an edge guide, bearing mounted bit or a fence to guide your router?
If you want a small, lightweight router the Bosch Colt PR20EVSPK includes a fixed base and an excellent plunge base.
Has anyone ever heard of the "Toughest" brand router? Is there a brand new router that sells for $40 these days? Is there a hand router that weighs 20 pounds?
It is a handyman club thing... Well actually that says toughtest! But then I have seen a lot of off brand stuff over the years! $40 router? can get very close! 20lb may be a slight exaggeration but 17+ lb do exist!
There is an old saying that you get what you pay for! Rarely get more than you pay for has been my experience.
It is built like a tank Phil, but it is easy to manuver and well balanced. The large plunge lever is handy for people with wrist problems and the trigger switch is a nice feature.
Yeah, it's heavy, but once you get setup and going is glides along, not real convenient for hand held in horizontal position, however (at least at my age anymore)
I tend to agree with current posts: something is not right here. Router is not being used correctly, as pointed out, and no decent form of jig in use to do a simple dado. The Bosch Colt will do all that has been discussed and do it easily with a simple guide. So will several others, including the PC 690 the poster apparently has.
I believe the problem can be cured with some quick reading of routing techniques. Hate to see anybody go through this sorta agony to get a simple chore done.
Fred
I have to agree with James feed direction plus to deep a cut in a pass plus mdf is a tough product very dense and they use a lot glue to make this product so you need a good router bit. You will probably end up owner 2 or 3 routers ( trim routers, plunge ,compact, table ) I believe I have 6
You were correct, I was not paying any attention to which way I was routing. So I got a pile of scrap boards, and just kept practicing, my dado's improved dramatically.
Thanks
-Fred
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