Obviously I am biased, but I would argue this point. The bits you linked to require three cuts and leave a gap in the end of the door from the groove for the plastic retainer. The Freud version makes a tenon that not only fills the gap but also adds strength and it only takes two cuts:bobj3 said:He also sell the best bit set for this job..
DVD/GlassPanelDoors router bit set.
Charles M said:Obviously I am biased, but I would argue this point. The bits you linked to require three cuts and leave a gap in the end of the door from the groove for the plastic retainer. The Freud version makes a tenon that not only fills the gap but also adds strength and it only takes two cuts:
Bj,bobj3 said:Here's how it work:
Mill the cope and pattern cuts first, then use the slot cutter to cut the groove for the rubber panel retainer.
The edge of the pattern cut will ride on the bearing of the slot cutter bit.
When you cut the slot in the rails you can cut the slot the full length of the stock.
When you cut the slot in the stiles you need to set up reference points to stop and start the cuts so they are hidden from view on the top and bottom of the doors..
Charles M said:Bj,
You'll have to help me out on this one. How does what you describe above compare to making glass doors with the Freud set:
Step 1. Mill the cope and pattern cuts
Step 2. Oh yeah, there's not a Step 2. No $10 DVD required.
And what holds the joint together?
An in regards to making SDL (simulated divided lite) grills, any set can do that.
And the Sommerfeld Tools bits are made in China while Freud is made in Italy.
I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree.
Charles M said:That's cool but I still don't understand how you can see that design as somehow superior. The Freud version does exactly the same thing but in fewer steps and makes a stronger joint. Oh yeah, and the Freud set allows the use of a more readily available size of glass molding.
Charles M said:Bj,
The lite (pun intended) just came on for me. Actually the OP was looking for SDL snap on grilles but your point is valid. Except that the minimum width of the muntins with the Sommerfeld/CMT set must be at least 1-1/8" wide. For a true divided lite this is WAY too heavy (that was the OP's complaint). It should be done with bits designed for that purpose like these:
Rubber retainer in a classic divided lite door? Surely you jest!bobj3 said:Hi Charles
Thanks but I don't see the slot for the rubber panel retainer...that the bit would put in place..
Yeah, except the image he just posted is a knock off of the divided lite bits I posted a little earlier and doesn't have the groove he said he wanted:Hamlin said:Charles,
I think what Bob is pointing out is the way to use just 1 pane of glass instead of multiples. Am I right Bj? Or have I misread?
Charles M said:Yeah, except the image he just posted is a knock off of the divided lite bits I posted a little earlier and doesn't have the groove he said he wanted:
As I said, they all can be used to make SDL overlay grilles.
Here's the long and short as I see it: Bj pointed to Sommerfeld as selling "the best bit set for this job". I challenged that we have one that does all that Sommerfeld's does and has advantages over it. From there it seemed to devolve into confusion. The Sommerfeld/CMT and the Freud will all make glass doors, they can all make divided lite doors and they can all make overlay grilles. Ours only requires two passes and makes a stronger joint while theirs can accommodate different thicknesses of glass. So the choice is up the the user as to which of those fits their needs.
Well said Ed.karateed said:Hi Guys,
You know what I think? (do you have a choice, I'm going to say it anyway.)
I think you both are doing a job different ways and I for one am grateful we can have these different perspectives. Sometimes a post goes a while and it seems like an argument but I can see you 2 are understanding each other better as the post goes along.
Essentially what you've both done is educated all of us that are lesser skilled in a couple of different methodologies in woodworking and I for one think that's great.
Keep the friendly debates coming and keep us learning, that's what I say....
See, told you I was going to say what I thought.....
Charles M said:Hi Bj,
The picture of the divided lite was just to show what I consider the best way to make narrow muntins. For full lite or simulated divided lite with the plastic retainer I still recommend the 99-286:
And to the CMT version:
Now if you want something really cool the recoverable bead is the way to go: