Router Forums banner
Cancel

soft start/variable speed table setup

32542 Views 175 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  jw2170, 
T
greetings all... here is my situation: I've built a custom router table, invested in top of the line accessories blah, blah, blah.. but as of yet, still have not purchased a router. I would idealy want to have remote control (outside of the router box portion of the cabinet) of router motor speed. Right now, the only production router i can find that allows for this is the Milwaukee 5625 sold as a package with remote varialble speed control. This package has reviewed very well and certainly isn't a bad consideration, however, I'd like to know of any other options. From what I've read, the big PC's and Milwaukee's with soft start and VS will not allow for a 'remote' motor speed controller. I've read through the forum and could not find anything that answered my questions, so i figure go straight to the experts..thanks in advance for any assistance...
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 11 of 176 Posts
W
Jim,
If I understand your concerns about the expansion table top correctly, I think there is a solution. This would work if you have some good quartersawn or stabile hardwood (maple, maybe?).
Make a frame of hardwood. The frame would have the end laminated to accept the Veritas vise. The inside of the frame would have a step cut into it to accomodate the MDF or your choice. I would make a substantial step, perhaps 1/2". You could also attach cleats to the inside of the frame. The frame should be cross braced beneath, at intervals, to help support the router placement and to insure against movement. You can glue the MDF into the frame, fasten, or let it float. I would do the first two. Irregardless, this method allows for any movement of the MDF and allows for the vise mounting.
Reply
Save
Like
W
BigJimAK said:
westend,

I have attached a sketch of what I think you said. Do I understand you correctly? I really like the idea of a hybrid. How do I account for the difference in expansion between the maple and the MDF if I affix the two together? I am envisioning two-sided laminate covered MDF to protect from moisture warping the MDF.

Perhaps a couple of screws near the router lift with slotted screw holes near the outside?

This would also have the advantage of making the router table "replaceable" without having to buy another 20+ board feet of hard maple ($6.20/bd ft here in Anchorage). ..or if I were to make my first ever mistake when routing the router lift cutout. <g>

Jim
Click to expand...
Jim,
Not quite what I had in mind but almost. The frame that holds the MDF should completely edge-band the piece of MDF. I'm guessing that this is called a stepped dado (see attachment). If you made this frame to join to the other pieces of maple, you're only joining maple to maple and along the same grain. Expansion would be the same for the maple pieces and the end of the frame.
I used this kind of frame for a table saw extension. It worked out great.

I need to get along more on my learning curve with Sketchup so I can share designs and access the libraries and such.

Attachments

See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
W
Hey Jim,
I've also been folowing your setup process and you may have sorted out the details by now but I thought I'd throw this out to you. If I'm understanding your intention and process correctly, you wish to wire a 100 amp subpanel in the garage to power your woodworking tools. You would like to take the subpanel with you when you end your lease and move. Am I correct so far?

Here's what I would do: Establish location and install the subpanel in the garage. Pull three runs of #2 and ground to the main panel if there is a space for a 100 amp breaker or to a disconnect box that is fused. If you use a disconnect box, there will be less fuss and muss when you choose to vacate the circuit. I would forgo the plug and receptacle. You will have some minor disconnect work when you move but it will not be that much more than removing a cable with receptacle. Good luck with the power tools.
BigJimAK said:
Bill,

My project goes.. but not nearly as fast as I want it to! I've received the PC 7518, an Incra LS 25 Supersystem, Incra Mast-r-lift, Wixey remote digital readout and an Incra miter gauge. I've got a MasterGage and Lee Valley 50" aluminum straightedge in the mail.

I've got the cash for the Unisaw but am holding off ordering it until I finalize the power run into my garage. My desire is to install a 100A fused disconnect off of the mains (just downstream of the main breaker) and have a plug/receptacle that connects a 3/c #2 cable to a subpanel in the garage. I want to use an "extension cord" approach since I'm leasing and want to take it with me when I go.

The holdup so far is looking for a less-expensive plug/receptacle pair. Finding a 100A setup that's NEC 3R (rainproof) rated has so far left me with $1,000 just for the two. That's just too d*mned much to spend on a plug.

So, I'm working with some of the local electrical suppliers to see if one of them will cut me a deal. I'm not looking for free but am hoping one of them will consider something near cost, since its for hobby use and I specify hundreds of thousands in electrical components per year for industrial applications. The people I've needed to talk to have been on vacation the last couple of weeks; starting next week it's time to go hardcore!

If that is unsuccessful, I'll drop back to 60A service. With that, I have to decide if I want to have the 40A slow-blow circuit Delta recommends for their 5hp Unisaw or if I should go with the 3hp. The $200 extra for the motor I can see, but not $1,000 for the outside outlet! :shout:

I'm getting mighty antsy though.. I've given the cast iron tables on my dripp press, jointer, planer, bandsaw and scrollsaw a going over with Phosphoric acid / Boeshield and gave them a preliminary tuning. That's what led to ordering the straightedge and mastergage!

As for the skeeters.. its been a sunny spring so they aren't too thick.. barely enough for a swarm to carry away a small dog. A couple of weeks of rain though, and then the moose better watch out!

Jim
Click to expand...
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
W
There is always an alternative solution to a problem.
As the OP has surmised, remote speed control can be implemented in different flavors. I would assume that all EVS routers can have the soft-start and speed control circuits bypassed in order to use a remote speed control. With the use of lifts, digital height gauges, and remote speed controls, the user can do everything from the top of the table.

Jim, I hope you get that saw hooked up, soon. I'll be eagerly waiting for your impressions. Is the Unisaw you're looking at the Model 36-L336, the one with the single cast trunnion?
Reply
Save
Like
W
Bill, that sounds like a "killer" setup you have there. I've always liked Milwaukee tools. They seem to build a rugged and reliable tool. Being able to dial everything in from the top of the table is way cool, too. Post up a pic or two of your table when you have it set up.
I wonder if any of the older Bosch speed controls (non-vs) mate up with the VS routers?

BTW, no problems about table height, I just lowered mine to 39 1/2" to mate with the table saw.:yes4:
Reply
Save
Like
W
Bill, I'm no EE but do dabble a bit in electronics. Does the new setup work after you have got it running into it's normal state. In other words, after you have toggled it into working, can you shut it off and then flip the toggle and it starts up again? I hate to guess at this kinfd of stuff since it can really lead off into a tangent but it reminds me of a capacitor trying to reform. If you have a bad cap the speed control board is most likely your problem. Remember, this is a WAG from a dabbler. Good luck with the setup and I hope the problem cures itself.
Reply
Save
Like
W
Bill, do you have a link to a schematic or a good pic of the speed control board? The replacement module that you put in the router comes from Milwaukee, doesn't it?
Reply
Save
Like
W
Hey Bill,
I looked at the parts diagram you linked to and it does depict a handful of caps on the board. I have very little experience with that kind of circuit but would assume that the power is shunted between the caps on the board, basically controlling the inrush current that the motor "sees". A poor cap in that circuit would produce the symptoms you have stated.
Another thought that came to mind is: If the contact posts or spade connectors are dirty, oxidized, or loose. Any poor contact between the wires and the clips might interfere with a good electrical path. The solution to that would be to hit all the connectors with a deoxidizing solvent, Deoxit is one of the best and is sold at Radio Shack.
It sounds like the setup is coming around and maybe your initial electronic problems will sort themselves out. I guess exchanging the part might assure that no future problems crop up but waiting, though, might be the easiest solution. Good luck with the new control and keep us informed of how you like it.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
W
Hey Bill,
Sounds like you're making good progress! Glad to hear the electronics have sorted themselves out. For a door to the motor section, I chose to make mine hinge down. That allows for the door to stay out of the way for removal and allows for easy dust removal. Pics are in my gallery.
I'm still on the fence about drawers and doors in a machine cabinet. Shelves work good for me. Of course, others have different ideas about storage, check out the winner from Fine Woodworking's tool-chest category:Tool Chest Contest Winner is Selected - Fine Woodworking
Reply
Save
Like
W
TwoSkies57 said:
hey guys. sorry i'm dragging this out, my laptop took a dump last weekend and I just go it back, Lost everything, you know what they say about backing everything up....
Click to expand...
Been there...I feel your pain. I had the CCFL inverter board go out in mine, two weeks ago. I lasted a day 1/2 before I had to buy another screen. I tried using another machine but discovered just how dependent I was on my own apps and information, nevermind the lack of passwords.
With one machine, I lost the power supply section but not the harddrive.That's when I discovered these cute little buggers: external harddrive enclosure. Plugged the old drive into the enclosure and a USB cable to the new laptop and, presto, restored all my info.
Reply
Save
Like
W
Holy shinoly! That is one nice effort. The cabinet is great and all the bells and whistles too!
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 11 of 176 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Router Forums
A forum community dedicated to router and woodworking professionals and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about different types of routing and routers, shop safety, finishing, woodworking related topics, styles, tools, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
New Member Introductions Tools and Woodworking General Routing Table-mounted Routing Show N' Tell
Top