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Sorry I didn't get back to you! I must have missed your post!

I haven't done the conversion yet! Just getting the information needed. I've been looking around for a reconditioned or used 5625 that I can do the conversion on, I also found out that the complete controller # 23-35-0175 is now available through Milwaukee.
Here's part of an E-Mail I got back from Milwaukee Tools;
The 23-35-0175 Control Box and individual service replacement parts are now available for purchase through your local Milwaukee Dealer or by calling our 1- 800- Sawdust line ( 1-800-729-3878) for additional information. mailto:[email protected]

Hope this helps
Doug
Ordered the parts, with the exception of the toggle switch (it is back ordered till June).
23-35-0175 Control Box
I wasn't able to find that part number online, most places, connected with a router. Doesn't mean it isn't but comes up as a controller for another tool. (no point in risking it since mainly the control housing is the only thing missing and that can be made easily). My calculations show $121.00 before shipping, so this is a relatively inexpensive project.

I really am thankful to you all for your help. I saw this project two years ago, and couldn't justify modifying a new/warrantied router at that time. Since picking up one (working) inexpensively, I have NO problem doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Randall...

I dont' think you'll regret having made the modification. I know I sure didn't.

Been a bit under the weather lately, so i must apologize for not having followed up quickly on some of this. I am however, attempting to rebirth the original thread at the other site. Folks over there are pretty much like here, very helpfull.

If that fails, I'll continue to search for my receipt. I KNOW i didn't throw it out. but dang if I know where i put it. :) I may not be much help for you boys, but hopefully it'll say someone down the road alot of leg work...I'm looking forward to hear how things work out for you guys, Randall/Doug.

bill
 

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Randall...

I dont' think you'll regret having made the modification. I know I sure didn't.

Been a bit under the weather lately, so i must apologize for not having followed up quickly on some of this. I am however, attempting to rebirth the original thread at the other site. Folks over there are pretty much like here, very helpfull.

If that fails, I'll continue to search for my receipt. I KNOW i didn't throw it out. but dang if I know where i put it. :) I may not be much help for you boys, but hopefully it'll say someone down the road alot of leg work...I'm looking forward to hear how things work out for you guys, Randall/Doug.

bill

Between this post. Contacting Mike (the ORIGINAL person, who did the mod by CUTTING INTO the controller), Casey (the original poster from Woodnet) and Doug, I believe I have ALL the documentation, that is out there on it. I need to burn backups of it, as I had the webpages from Woodnet saved on an old pc that died (mech failure).
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Milwaukee EFM for 5625

Well, I finally went and took the top off of my router, with the hopes of getting a little more information out there to you guys. The EFM did have some numbers on it and I hope it helps:

METCO
20 07 14 20 0095 REV. 1

the following are a few pictures of what it looks like. It's all pretty straight forward stuff.

This is the Milwaukee 5625 that I converted


Removing the Top is a matter of undoing 4 screws, a single screw holds the EFM in place




Lifting the EFM off of the shaft, 3 clip connections and the 3 wire connector


The EFM removed




Part of the EFM actually replaces the OEM speed controller with a solid blank


When assembling, be careful to not pinch this wire.


I apologize for some the quality of some of the pictures, not sure what went on..and i am definitely NOT a photographer.....
 

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Well, I finally went and took the top off of my router, with the hopes of getting a little more information out there to you guys. The EFM did have some numbers on it and I hope it helps:

METCO
20 07 14 20 0095 REV. 1

the following are a few pictures of what it looks like. It's all pretty straight forward stuff.
Thanks for the pic's bill !
Just to up-date anyone checking out this info at this point of the thread here's the wiring instructions for the New EFM (Electronic Feedback Module) that TwoSkies57 posted back on page 6 part #14-20-0095
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Thanks for the PDF's Doug!!!!!

not sure why the stuff you pm'd about won't post yet...

I'll keep at it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Just a little sidebar here...

I've made it a pretty good habit to use compressed air and clean off the lift and router pretty regularly! Maybe once every two weeks or so since I'm not constantly using the table. After taking off the top earlier today, I was surprised at just how much sawdust had collected inside. Definitely going to spend more time cleaning this thing up thoroughly now that I see just how dirty it can get.
 

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About trying to post the stuff he sent you, I believe it is in zipped format, and must be unzipped before you can copy it here. (there could also be size issues, but as a mod I am sure your aware of that)

I have copies of the 4 pages from Woodnet, from Casey if you want them.

Now about the don't pinch wire, did you cut a notch for it to fit in, or how did you handle it?

Everything but the power (toggle) switch, and that hunk of metal that the parts fit in, I've ordered. The toggle switch is back ordered (should be able to find one that works), and I can't see close to $100 for that aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Randal, yes indeed if you have them, you can either post them here, giving Casey credit or just send em to me and I'll get em up. As with you and Doug, there seems to be an ongoing interest in how to do this.

AS for pinching the wire, there was/is a small notch already in place, you just have to make sure to use it.

The toggle switch I used is a simple standard on/off shop switch with the plastic keyed lockout. but any 2 wire on/off will work I believe.

Hunk of metal the parts fit in?? 100.00 for aluminum??

What did you end up getting as a speed controller?
 

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Randal, yes indeed if you have them, you can either post them here, giving Casey credit or just send em to me and I'll get em up. As with you and Doug, there seems to be an ongoing interest in how to do this.

AS for pinching the wire, there was/is a small notch already in place, you just have to make sure to use it.

The toggle switch I used is a simple standard on/off shop switch with the plastic keyed lockout. but any 2 wire on/off will work I believe.

Hunk of metal the parts fit in?? 100.00 for aluminum??

What did you end up getting as a speed controller?
I will forward you the Email, please pm me your email address (large files). Files sizes are 2.32mb, 6.71mb, 5.69mb, and 4.51mb, and I don't know about any rules here since this could deal with copyright issues.
The wire is good to know, as the original post, he tore some insulation off of it, and made it sound like the notch was not the correct size.
The toggle switch has four prongs on it, however I am 90% sure that two of them are for the lockout switch (kind of why I would like one, so I don't have to kill power to that area, if nieces/nephews over). I may hide a second switch for safety sake then.

I ordered all the parts, as stated, EXCEPT the switch, and the machined aluminum they show in the pdf's you have. The machined, U channel, they have the parts (switch, external speed controller) mounted in, it is part number 23-37-0175. In the email Doug sent you was the price. I can build a mounting box, out of free scrap metal from a machinist friend (just dig through his recycle stuff), rather then spend the money for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
PM has been sent with email, thank Randal. I don't believe any copyright issues will arise, but I will none the less, contact Casey and ask for his permission and of course give him due credit for all of this.

OK, I follow you now on the machines box. Wasn't sure what you were referring to earlier. :)

You've got to be getting anxious to get this put together by now?...
 

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Doug and I read the email he received from Milwaukee, about the control box quite differently. I sent an email back to who he talked to, for clarification, and will post any correction if needed.
I also had a hankering and a quick 30 second search, found a switch which looks quite similar, Grizzly H8239.

I doubt Casey will have any issues with it being reposted (probably prefer it to all of us asking him over the years), but don't know about Woodnet either (TOS or anything). Plus trying to shrink it, since I don't have a digital camera (had two stolen), I haven't had need or experience with that.

Thanks again all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
A much deserved THANKS for a few folks

Before proceeding any further, I'd like to give some credit where credit is do about this point. First I'd like to say thanks to Casey again over at Woodnet for having contrived this whole thing. He's the guy who came up with this particular conversion over 2 years ago and judging by the continued interest in this particular thread, he must have done something right...
Then lately, I'd like to say thanks to LinuxRandal and Dewall174 for having done so much leg work in finding and then getting a copy of Casey's original post in Woodnet.
I'm going to repost most of the original pics and info so that we will have it on hand for the next guy/gal who wants to take this on.
Then just a general big thanks to everyone who has contributed, pm'd, email thoughts or comments in a positive way. :)

bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
Conversion Components:

here is a list of the original parts used to convert the Milwaukee 5625 into a fully functional remote controlled variable speed unit:

Parts were orginally ordered from:
<<<some may or may not still be available>>>

Charles H. Day Co.
602 SE 11th Ave.
Portland Or. 97214
index

14-20-0095 ELECTRONIC FEEDBACK MODULE $39.85 USD (Speed Controller)
23-18-0075 KNOB SPEED DIAL $2.20 USD
23-66-0155 SWITCH PADDLE W/LOCKOUT $6.10 USD
22-64-0445 CORD SET ASSY $9.60 USD
23-33-0505 RECEPTACLE POT ASSY $21.45 USD
22-64-0400 CABLE POWER CONTROL $15.60 USD
06-57-5020 Lock nut $1.30


The EFM, Knob speed dial and Switch paddle assemblies


Backside of EFM, Knob speed dial and Switch Paddle Assemblies

Cable power control

Cord Set assembly

Receptacle pot assembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Milwaukee 5625 conversion: removing the top

Ok guys, I think I'm going to do this in multiple posts. Hats off to those guys who go in and do it this way rather than load up the main with a bunch of pictures. First is pretty straight forward, just removing the top:
There are 4 torx25 screws that hold the top in place (a flat blade screwdriver will work)and I think its a torx20 that holds the height adjuster knob in place


 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Removing the old Electronic feedback module

The next series of pictures describe what to look for and how to go about removing the old EFM (electronic feedback module)
Once you’ve got the top off, you’ll see the controller. You need a T20 bit, or a flat head screw driver, to unhook it and free it from the router. You’ll also use the same bit to pull the hold down that holds the power cord in place. You can take note of the locations of the wiring…you’ll be reusing the connections on the main router body.






 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Installing the control cable

At this point you should have the EFM and the power cord removed from the router. Next is to install the new control cable.





 
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