setup photo pls.
Ephrem: hang the pivot point. Just clamp both ends and be done with it. What is critical is that the face of the fence toward the workpiece is perpendicular to the table surface. That is your only worry and a jointer handles that nicely.
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Thank`s for the comment. Why elimiate the pivot? Is there some obvious avantage?
Oops, sorry for the techno-jargon. In order for your fence to remain stable while working with it, you need to tighten down the pivot _and_ the clamp at the other end. Depending on how tight your pivot is, it may wobble as you push material past the bit.
I don't use a pivot. Instead, I use two "C" clamps, one at each end of the fence. My router table is designed with a 2 1/2" "lip" that allows me lots of clamping space to hold the fence. I tighten both clamps snugly but the furthest away from me is a bit more snug than the clamp close to me. I use a hammer to tap the close end of the fence into place and then I tighten both clamps down tight and check the measurement again. If I need to, I can tap the fence while it is tight for that ever so slight "adjustment."
I really don`t understand the second part of your comment regarding the perpendicular and the jointer.
I will assume that your router is in the table and the bit is sticking out ready to cut. If you're using a straight bit, it must be perpendicular to the surface of the table. That would make the bit parallel to the face of the fence. However, I use 2x4s for fences and humidity and abuse take their toll on the "accuracy" of my fence so I have to square it up from time to time.
To do that, I use a jointer.
This is a jointer. The long horizontal section is the "bed" and the vertical part is the "fence." I take my 2x4 and put the side that goes next to the router bit and I put it face down on the "bed" of the jointer. Now, the "bed" is divided into two parts, the infeed and the outfeed. The outfeed is adjusted to the height of the cutter. That is a drum with blades on it that sit underneath that yellow thing (protective cover) in the middle of the "bed."
The infeed side is adjusted separately using the handle you see below on the right. By the way, the infeed side is on the right. I adjust the infeed table so it is just slightly 1/16" below the level of the outfeed side. I turn on the machine, the drum with the blades spin and I push my 2x4 across the infeed side, push the protective cover out of the way (with the 2x4) and I get a face that is perfectly flat and square to the fence on the jointer. I make sure the 2x4 is hard against the fence so that the cut is perfectly square. That means that the face of my 2x4 is now perfectly square (at 90 degrees or right angles) to the surface of my router table and as a consequence perfectly parallel to the bit on my router.
You always want the router table fence to be parallel with the centreline of the bit.
Is it the jointer (whatever that is) that makes the pivot unnecessary? As I said I am a novice so please accept my stupid questions.
Oops, not here. No such thing as a stupid question, only a stupid answer. Oh yes, there are those that say the question not asked is "the stupid question."
Posibly explaining my procedure will help. I wish to make a 1/4 inch groove on the edge of a 2 inch wide X 36 inch long pine board. Assuming I am using a 1/2 inch bit. Using an adjustable square I set it at 1-3/4 inch, set one face of the square on the side of the bit and slide the fence to toutch the other edge of the square.
Ok, I'm in the middle of construction in my shop so I can't take a photo. Can someone please setup for a 1/2" rabbet and take a picture of it.
I am not happy with my present table top and I wish to replace it. Can someone suggest a sutible material? Excuse the long winded reply.
The best material is 1" or thicker Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF) with, or without a plastic laminate top. I just bought one (4x8 sheet) at BMR (Home Depot on steroids) for $46. Cdn.
