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A perfect template.
I'm working on a router wing for my table saw and made a template to cut out the hole for the insert (which, because I'm cheap and didn't prepare well for retirement) will be a piece of the same material the table top is made of. Because of this, I cut the insert first, traced around it on 1/4 inch plywood and cut that out with my bandsaw. Then I sanded to my traced line. It's going to work, but it wouldn't qualify for any awards for sure. I will say that it's a LOT nicer looking than my first attempt which was just trying to jig saw on a line. All that did for me was generate some scrap.
 

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John
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If it works that is all that counts
 

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Theo
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You want beauty, then you do what I do. Either modify it, bondo, sanding, cut away some and glue a piece in, whatever it takes, then use that to make a new one. Repeat as needed. OR, start over. Again, repeat as needed. But for things for my shop, as long as it looks decent, it works, then it's normally "close enough is good enough". If a hole really needs to be accurate tho, I use a hole saw, or on occasion, a hole cutter.
 
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A perfect template.
I'm working on a router wing for my table saw and made a template to cut out the hole for the insert (which, because I'm cheap and didn't prepare well for retirement) will be a piece of the same material the table top is made of. Because of this, I cut the insert first, traced around it on 1/4 inch plywood and cut that out with my bandsaw. Then I sanded to my traced line. It's going to work, but it wouldn't qualify for any awards for sure. I will say that it's a LOT nicer looking than my first attempt which was just trying to jig saw on a line. All that did for me was generate some scrap.
Ken, maybe this video will help you out.

 
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Theo
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Ken, maybe this video will help you out.
That was interesting. I did my router plate insert totally different, but it is dead accurate anyway. And I had no clue how I did it. Making it was one of those Zen woodworking things, where I know I want to make something, not a clue how, and as soon as I grab a ruler and pencil, then everything pretty much goes blank until it is finished. Get some interesting results that way tho, and so far they all work.
 
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Theo
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This is how I am after Zen woodworking.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You want beauty, then you do what I do. Either modify it, bondo, sanding, cut away some and glue a piece in, whatever it takes, then use that to make a new one. Repeat as needed. OR, start over. Again, repeat as needed. But for things for my shop, as long as it looks decent, it works, then it's normally "close enough is good enough". If a hole really needs to be accurate tho, I use a hole saw, or on occasion, a hole cutter.
Oh, it is close enough because it is for the shop and it isn't that bad. However, when I do want to make a better whatever, I'll use your suggestions. I honestly hadn't thought of bondo, but I like the idea.
 

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Theo
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Oh, it is close enough because it is for the shop and it isn't that bad. However, when I do want to make a better whatever, I'll use your suggestions. I honestly hadn't thought of bondo, but I like the idea.
Some people use bondo in their finished template. Fine for if you are only going to use it once. But with mine about 99% are used more, sometime a lot more. So I just use the bondo (or wood filler, or whatever) to make a really good one, then use that one to make one I will keep. But, for one time use, likely no problem. My templates (masters) are two layers of 1/2" plywood, I like the thickness because, among other things, can get a good grip on it. At times, for the second layer I will glue small pieces on the first, then rout that. Looks ugly as can be when that side is up, but works just as good as a solid piece.
 

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Ken, maybe this video will help you out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uv8LqTfWOkc
I was wondering how the heck the radius’s we’re going to work with that large bit, but at the end he sanded the plates corners to give them less os a radius.
Not the way I would do it .

I would use his idea of making a perimeter of wood around the plate as a template , but would reinforce it with pocket holes first , then use the double sided tape to hold it in place.
Then I’d use this bit to get the perimeter hogged out at the right depth , well as long as it was the same radius as the plates corners .
After that you could use a 1/8th bit with a bushing to cut out the threw hole.
In my case I’d cut the hole right threw the same size as the plate , then install those Kreg corner adjusters that go under the plate
 

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