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*WARNING* I'm TICKED!!! This is a rant... I'm warning everyone ahead of time. If you have answers, I'll take them, and the router with thank you, because it's on it's way to the wood chipper! (What's left of it after I run it over with my 4x4, that is)

Okay My router purchasing privileges are herby REVOLKED!!!!!! I'm so mad right now, I'm about to take a sledge to this router that I thought was gonna be the (forgive my language) "Cat's @$$". OMG WAS I WRONG! I want to like this machine! It feels amazing when cutting my patterns with it! But this thing and it's so-called lock on the plunge JUST DESTROYED AN HOURS WORTH OF WORK IN ONE FELL SWOOP BECAUSE THE LOCK LET GO, GOUGING THE EDGE TO WHERE IT'S NOW IRREPARABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First, I swear Makita made this thing for a left-handed person. Everything is for a lefty. I wouldn't complain, both my parents were lefty's. I know how to adapt.
But when I try and use the wrench to loosen the nut, I've almost hit myself in the face trying to get the thing loosened! The wrench won't grip right, and it takes multiple tries just to get it latched on to turn the nut. When it DOES finally loosen, I have to tap on the bit stem, or it's not coming out of the machine.

The power button.... meant, again, for a left-handed person. But I can get around that... takes time to get used to a new machine. What I CAN'T deal with, is the fact that to use the lock on the plunge, you have to get it where you want it and use TWO HANDS to get it to tighten hard enough to lock in the position! (That, too, is meant for the left-handed person.) Wouldn't be a big deal, except that with this machine, it stays mobile, and the lever works the exact opposite of the DeWalt. I thought this would be no big deal; use the thumb, press down on the lever, and it will lock in place... Uhhhh NO! In order for me to get that lock to work, it takes both hands to get it to add enough pressure to keep it in place.

DESTROYED my sign in one fell cut!!!! I'm so mad, my eyes hurt!!!!

Nick, my friend... now what do I do? Is there something I'm missing?? I swear I'm about to run this thing over with my 4x4 and take what's left and through it through a chipper!!!!!!!!


I know... "Breathe, Barb, Breathe....." But I'll post what it did to my sign.... You wouldn't be happy, either (I don't think).

Thank you for reading my rant, and like I said... I'll take any answers you may have. With this rant, I at least finally feel like I can go out to the she without setting something on fire, or destroying that whole shop.
 

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Some of the lock levers are splined in such a way that you take the screw out that holds the lever and rotate it to a better position. Would that help or you just can't tighten it enough the way it is? If it's a plunge have you had the base off the columns? BTW, which model is it?
 

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I'd have to go and check but I'm pretty sure Bosch's column locks are locked by default...I think you have to apply pressure to allow them to plunge. Maybe one of our 1617 owners can confirm that?
I'd go and check my own except that I can't get into the shop easily right now...electric opener issues and the repair guy won't get here till tomorrow. :(
(The repair co. wanted to know if I could get in through the side door... rothflmao!! "Umm, no." )
 

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YEOWCH...soooooo sorry you're having such a time with the Makita...like Cherryville asked, what model do you have...it will help a lot. See comments inserted in your text below. Can't help you with all the probs though...

*WARNING* I'm TICKED!!! This is a rant... I'm warning everyone ahead of time. If you have answers, I'll take them, and the router with thank you, because it's on it's way to the wood chipper! (What's left of it after I run it over with my 4x4, that is)

Make sure you put the 4x4 in granny low so you go over it nice and slow... :grin:

Okay My router purchasing privileges are herby REVOLKED!!!!!! I'm so mad right now, I'm about to take a sledge to this router that I thought was gonna be the (forgive my language) "Cat's @$$". OMG WAS I WRONG! I want to like this machine! It feels amazing when cutting my patterns with it! But this thing and it's so-called lock on the plunge JUST DESTROYED AN HOURS WORTH OF WORK IN ONE FELL SWOOP BECAUSE THE LOCK LET GO, GOUGING THE EDGE TO WHERE IT'S NOW IRREPARABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First, I swear Makita made this thing for a left-handed person. Everything is for a lefty. I wouldn't complain, both my parents were lefty's. I know how to adapt.

Yes...it will take a bit of adapting as it will be different than the router you were using.

But when I try and use the wrench to loosen the nut, I've almost hit myself in the face trying to get the thing loosened! The wrench won't grip right, and it takes multiple tries just to get it latched on to turn the nut.

What do you mean by this...? Is the wrench a little tight or do you have to constantly turn it over because of the little room to get it in...?

When it DOES finally loosen, I have to tap on the bit stem, or it's not coming out of the machine.

This might occur when the bit is pushed in all the way down when you insert it. Is it possible you're doing this...? Make sure you put the bit all the way in and then just back it out about 1/16 - 1/8". Generally, collets will suck the bit down some more but if it was already all the way down it will jam when you loosen it to remove the bit. This may or may not be the case but you could check.

The power button.... meant, again, for a left-handed person. But I can get around that... takes time to get used to a new machine. What I CAN'T deal with, is the fact that to use the lock on the plunge, you have to get it where you want it and use TWO HANDS to get it to tighten hard enough to lock in the position! (That, too, is meant for the left-handed person.) Wouldn't be a big deal, except that with this machine, it stays mobile, and the lever works the exact opposite of the DeWalt. I thought this would be no big deal; use the thumb, press down on the lever, and it will lock in place... Uhhhh NO! In order for me to get that lock to work, it takes both hands to get it to add enough pressure to keep it in place.

You might need to check the lever as Cherryville suggested. Some routers allow you to take the lever off, turn it slightly in the opposite direction that you would lock it, put it back on and then the lever will allow you some additional holding power. Again, let us know the model and can get you more specific info on this...

DESTROYED my sign in one fell cut!!!! I'm so mad, my eyes hurt!!!!

Nick, my friend... now what do I do? Is there something I'm missing?? I swear I'm about to run this thing over with my 4x4 and take what's left and through it through a chipper!!!!!!!!


I know... "Breathe, Barb, Breathe....." But I'll post what it did to my sign.... You wouldn't be happy, either (I don't think).

You are very passionate about your signs and I can only imagine what you might be feeling. I would suggest "playing" with the router on some junk wood to get used to the different feel. Doing this might bring out some other issues that you will find on junk wood instead of project wood.

Thank you for reading my rant, and like I said... I'll take any answers you may have. With this rant, I at least finally feel like I can go out to the she without setting something on fire, or destroying that whole shop.
 
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Strong letter to follow. I put a small grommet into the collet to keep the bit from bottoming. But that's in a half inch collet. I think you'd have to find something a little smaller if it only has a 1/4, perhaps a space ball?

Re: Repositioning the lock lever. I am amazed how designers manage to hide screws that hold pieces like this in place. Sometimes they glue a cover over them that you can pry up. I'd definitely try that. Ever try to open a laptop's case?
 

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Okay:

(Ken is looking this up... it's the one I posted the pics of last month, maybe? He says it's a RT0701C) I got the big kit.

Chuck: I can't get it tight enough to stay where I put it. It should be a simple thumb movement, and it locks, but it doesn't. Needless to say, having to use both hands to get the lock to work, makes it difficult to set. At the moment, I've given up on using the lock, and I'm trying to teach myself how to use the three preset screws so it won't go deeper than I need it. I've managed to get it to at least do the scalloped edges, and round over, but no more chamfering for the time being.

Dan: This one works the exact opposite. With the DeWalt, you hold the lever to move plunge the router up and down, and when you let it go, it's locked. This one, it moves freely up and down (mostly down) unless you flip the lever on the back, that does NOT like to move to begin with, and to get it to tighten enough to stay is difficult, to say the least.

Nick:

I was about to roll back and forth till the dang thing was flat! Loosening the nut: I press the lock button. I get the larger of the two wrenches (the one meant for the nut). It takes multiple tries just to get the wrench to fit over the nut. Like it won't line up, or fit properly. When it finally DOES fit, I continue to hold the button and pull the wrench towards me to loosen it.... it flies off, trying to take off my knuckles, along with all the layers of skin on them, and my hand, wrench and all goes flying towards me. Ken watched the h*ll I went through trying to get this to loosen. I finally get it to fit, and the nut loosens, to have the bit stuck in there, unwilling to move. As for the question if I've inserted the bit to the bottom, no, I haven't. As a matter of fact, I was taught that if I did feel the bit "hit bottom" to pull the bit back out about 1/4" (maybe). But none of my bits have even been long enough to go all the way in. I have to tap the bit on the shank to get it to come out. (Something else Ken watched me endure tonight.)

As for playing, like I said, I'm trying to teach myself how I can at least get it to no go too deep, using those three different screws that you can use as a stop. I've gotten myself to where I can at least use it for edges, but it's not happening, using it for my designs unless I can get the lock to work correctly.

On a more pleasant note, I was able to cut five or six signs tonight. Only one got the paint (Ken will paint them tomorrow, so you can see the cuts a bit better,) but also, here is what that idiotic stupid router did to my sign.... Fortunately, venting in here calmed me enough to save the router.
 

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Barb - if you're struggling with using the depth stops on the turret, watch this video from Norm Abram. It's a long video but the pertinent portion for you is from 6:49 to 8:00 minutes.

 

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Barb,

Sorry to hear of your problem.

I only have one older 1/4" collet Makita model 3621 plunge router that was given to me, and I don't use it because it only takes 1/4" bits and the plunge lock lever works opposite of my other routers. It free plunges and you have to press the lock lever to lock it at a desired position. This locking lever is spring loaded to release and it wants to release on you if you haven't locked it tight enough. My other routers all need the lock lever pressed in order to release and change the plunge height, so this Makita is backwards from the rest of my plunge routers. The switch on this Makita router is in one of the handles and must be squeezed to keep the router running and has no lock button to keep it on. Again, not at all like my other plunge routers

If this 3621 is your model of Makita router, and you can somehow make peace with it after this, I'll gladly send you another one that you can use as a spare or for parts. I think I've only used the one that I have a couple of times in the last 15 years or so because of these same problems.

My favorite router right now is my DeWalt DWP611 with both the fixed and plunge base, and the optional vacuum attachments for both of the bases. Unless I need more power, this little router is perfect for all my sign making and light work. It's so light and well balanced that it's a pleasure to use and it has an LED light to light the cutting area too. It only takes 1/4" bits, so I need to move up to one of my three DW618's if I need to do heavier cutting, or if I don't have the needed bit in a 1/4" shank size. It has a bit lock button and one wrench, so removing and replacing the bit is easy. I usually remove the motor from the base when doing this because it's easier this way. If you decide to replace your Makita, I suggest that you take a close look at the DeWalt DWP611. For what I've seen of your work, I think it will be a perfect choice.

Charley
 

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Ooo, not good. I was going to tell you not to run over it, might get a flat. I consider a hammer more appropriate. But I see you changed your mind. If you can get a refund on it, that is what I would do, and get something else. Good luck whichever way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My favorite router right now is my DeWalt DWP611
Charley
Charley, I have the 611. That's my old one. I had it less than a year and the plunge quit. When I went to warranty it, they didn't give me a new one, they did a hodge podge repair on it, and it's never been the same. It works, but they should have replaced it, not fudge it back together.

I agree. I love the l.e.d lights in it, and other than the plunge and the crappy warranty service, I've been very happy with it. That would be my other complaint on my Makita; no lights in it? If I would have been told there weren't any lights in it, I don't know if I would have gotten it. Ken looked to see if there's a light kit available, and to my disappointment, there isn't. If I get the full size router there is, but not the trim.

Let me add here, that the signs I cut last night were done with my 611, and I used the Makita to do the edging. I guess I'll have to find a way to rig some sort of light to my Makita if I ever get to use it for actually cutting signs. I don't think it's meant to do detail work like I do (in my lettering and designs). It really is a fantastic machine, just not meant for my use. My fault.
 

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At the moment, I've given up on using the lock, and I'm trying to teach myself how to use the three preset screws so it won't go deeper than I need it
I always use the hard stops, and would never trust the lock alone. Set the stops to the depth you want, and only use the lock to hold it up or down against the stops.
 

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Barb, here is a shot of my Makita RTO700 (purchased in America), not only have I never had a locking problem or any other problem but even though it's after 10.00pm I just went into my shed and checked the locking on the RTO700 and quite honestly you would need a sledge hammer to move the locked router. Is YOUR router the same as this?
 

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Charley, I have the 611. That's my old one. I had it less than a year and the plunge quit. When I went to warranty it, they didn't give me a new one, they did a hodge podge repair on it, and it's never been the same. It works, but they should have replaced it, not fudge it back together.

I agree. I love the l.e.d lights in it, and other than the plunge and the crappy warranty service, I've been very happy with it. That would be my other complaint on my Makita; no lights in it? If I would have been told there weren't any lights in it, I don't know if I would have gotten it. Ken looked to see if there's a light kit available, and to my disappointment, there isn't. If I get the full size router there is, but not the trim.


Let me add here, that the signs I cut last night were done with my 611, and I used the Makita to do the edging. I guess I'll have to find a way to rig some sort of light to my Makita if I ever get to use it for actually cutting signs. I don't think it's meant to do detail work like I do (in my lettering and designs). It really is a fantastic machine, just not meant for my use. My fault.

Barb, I had a DeWalt circular saw that needed warranty work, and they didn't fix the problem. I took it back a second time and it still wasn't right, so it went back again and I had words with the manager over it. I ended up getting a new saw from them.

My oldest son had bought a 18 volt drill right after they first became available that he used at work many times a day every day. At the time he was a line tech for the cable company and he mostly used the drill with a socket adapter to open and close the line amplifier cases, 14 hex head screws per amplifier. He did this so much that he would wear out the hex head socket adapter in about a week and always kept spares ready in his pocket. He also had a DIY modified winch that he operated with the drill to lift and lower car sized batteries for the battery backup power supplies.

In only 2 years of use he had worn hand prints in the plastic case of the drill and had dropped it to the ground several times. On the last drop, the case had cracked too badly to be used any more, so he took it into DeWalt for service. At the time, DeWalt had a deal going where for one fixed price of something like $68 they would fix everything and completely rebuild it if necessary.

They couldn't believe how heavily used it was in such a short time, and quickly decided to just give him a new replacement of the same model drill for it. (I think his original tired, cracked, and worn out drill is now on display in DeWalt CHQ). I think they discontinued the "one price, fix everything deal" after this too.

Keep taking your router back to DeWalt and see the manager about your problem with it until it's either fixed correctly or replaced. If you can't get the local DeWalt repair shop to do it right, send a note to CHQ.

Several years ago Harry had added a clip to the side of his Makita routers, so he could attach an LED flashlight (torch) in order to light the cutting area. Maybe he can find his post for you and post a link to it.

Charley
 

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Barb,
IRREPARABLE should not be in any woodworker's vocabulary. Work around it or make it part of the design or make it a feature, Lemons to lemonade as they say. I feel for your frustration and we are happy to oblige your vent, but now try to think outside the box. The deer is '' a big buck with a big rack and they can have unusual shapes '' or just cut it and sell the welcome part ! Remember a good woodworker knows how to hide (camouflage)mishaps or mistakes.

Smile

Dan
 

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Barb...from the looks of that wrench, Makita might want you to change bits with the motor out of the base. Don't know if you've tried that...***EDIT***once out of the base you can use two opposing wrenches and that would be easier to loosen / tighten.

I would agree with the recommendation made to use the plunge stops rather than trust the plunge lock lever.

If there's a screw in the middle of the lock lever, take it out and see if you can reposition the lever so that you get more tightening power for less travel.

In any event, try using the stops instead...
 
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