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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought the Sommerfeld jigs to do both through and blind dovetails. $339 OTD w/ free shipping. Watched his videos and am convinced I can actually handle this. Easy adjustment for loosening the joints if needed.

FYI: You can request the individual 'tuning forks' as a substitute for the single plate shown online - no extra charge according to Pat. I did.
 

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Katey Jig was the original name and they are the same. New accessories fit the older model jig. I have a feeling he has a daughter named Kate. The video is on making dovetail joints.

Two videos, part one and two.

I think he marks up the jig as to face in, face out, and he has a numbering scheme for the workpieces to avoid cutting it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I watched them and decided off the two videos that this unit would be best for what pieces I would make - chests and armoires will have to wait!

I'll nickname mine as 'Katey' for old time sake...if she behaves herself!
 

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This jig is good for up to 12 inch wide material. Chests are often deeper, and require another kind of jig, up to 18 inches. Leigh makes it and costs about $575 on Amazon.

If I were going to make something like that, I'd use box joint using the iBox table saw jig, which runs about $210 on Amazon. Link below. I'd probably make something that large with BB ply rather that glue up panels.

https://www.amazon.com/Leigh-Super-...+inch+dovetail+jig&qid=1579398180&s=hi&sr=1-4

iBox jig link: https://www.amazon.com/INCRA-I-BOX-...?keywords=ibox+jig&qid=1579398451&s=hi&sr=1-2
 

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I have had a variety of jigs for making dovetails. I hava an Akeda, Prazi Chestmate, Rockler DT Jig and I have an Incra Positioner 27". Of all of the jigs I use the Incra exclusively now. The Incra is so versatile and you can make so many different types of joints. The other jigs I have make good dovetails but you are limited by the dimension of the dovetail. So if you have 1/2" bit the stock needs to be in 1/2" increments. The Incra makes variable spaced joints and is a very versatile system plus you have a very precise system for rabbeting and dadoing which the other jigs cannot do.

I also have an Incra I-Box jig for making box joints. I use a Frued 1/4" and 3/8" blade set with the I-Box and all I have to do is insert the blade on the saw, put the jig on the miter slot, adjust the height of the blade and bam I am making box joints. There is no easier way to make box joints. I primarily make 1/4" joints so if you need to switch over to 3/8" there is a setup and adjustment but if you make 1/4" last time and want to make 1/4" this time there is almost no adjustment except height of the blade.

I have a lot of Incra products and love each and every one of them.
 

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I have thought about a dovetail jig, but I don't do enough of them to justify the cost. I learned how to do them by hand and I actually enjoy doing them, it's the sense of accomplishment I guess. If I was doing them frequently I would probably spend the $$$.
 

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I don't do much with dovetails, so the simplicity of the Katey jig appeals. I can never remember the exact sequence for using the Porter-Cable jig. In its day it was revolutionary, but obviously the sun is setting on the PC style jig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't do much with dovetails, so the simplicity of the Katey jig appeals. I can never remember the exact sequence for using the Porter-Cable jig. In its day it was revolutionary, but obviously the sun is setting on the PC style jig.
I am totally inexperienced with dovetails, Tom - glad to have settled on a worthwhile jig, tho. The ‘slipsheet’ adjustability is very simple and hopefully will speed the whole precise fitment process along.

I’ve got a few small box-type pieces planned to get my chops down. Then it’s on to a desk with drawers, or something useful like a hallway stand or Shaker wall table.
 
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