I want to make a soundproof box for my circular saw because it is very noisy while in use. The saw runs with a 9.25 inches saw. It is very noisy. My neighours are annoyed but I need to use the saw to do some wood work lately. I know it it impossible to get 100% soundproof as there is an opening on the saw table. Just want to cut off as much machine noise as possible. Material I have on hand: 3/8", .5", and 6/8" plywood (all 4'X8') and some acoustic absorption foam (1M X 1.5M X 25mm). I have finished installing the saw under my 4' X 3' work bench today. Any suggestion in constructing this box would be very much appreciated. :thank_you2:
Soundproof box for under the table circular saw.
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I would recommend enclosing the entire bench for the most affective results.
I say this for a couple of reasons;
1. You have a lot more air space between the source of the noise and the escape point of the noise. That is important because the more space you have to trap the noise, the more trapping materials you can put in place. Also the longer a sound wave travels the less intense it gets due to friction. Enclosures that are too small will produce vibrations of the enclosure itself that will cause it to start giving off its own noise, most likely a low frequency rumble and you'll have just turned your table saw into a sub-woofer.
2. Electric motors generate HEAT, if the heat is not dissipated properly you'll just wind up burning up your motor and having to buy a new one. Having more airspace will also allow the motor and surrounding materials to release excess heat more efficiently.
Remember heat, much like sound, travels in waves.
If you can foot the bill I would strongly advise using plexiglass as it has sound deadening characteristics. If you choose to use R-15 insulation don't just lay it flat and staple it, pinch sections of it up into a wavy pattern along your plywood. This helps to produces multiple surfaces for the sound to echo off us increasing your soundproofing.
Again, the longer the sound travels the weaker it gets, if you throw a rubber ball at a flat wall it will bounce off and continue going, but if the wall had say, wads of paper glued to it then threw the ball, the multiple angles of deflection would cause the ball to lose most of its momentum on its first strike and not travel as far.
Sorry, I really didn't mean to get so long winded.
I say this for a couple of reasons;
1. You have a lot more air space between the source of the noise and the escape point of the noise. That is important because the more space you have to trap the noise, the more trapping materials you can put in place. Also the longer a sound wave travels the less intense it gets due to friction. Enclosures that are too small will produce vibrations of the enclosure itself that will cause it to start giving off its own noise, most likely a low frequency rumble and you'll have just turned your table saw into a sub-woofer.
2. Electric motors generate HEAT, if the heat is not dissipated properly you'll just wind up burning up your motor and having to buy a new one. Having more airspace will also allow the motor and surrounding materials to release excess heat more efficiently.
Remember heat, much like sound, travels in waves.
If you can foot the bill I would strongly advise using plexiglass as it has sound deadening characteristics. If you choose to use R-15 insulation don't just lay it flat and staple it, pinch sections of it up into a wavy pattern along your plywood. This helps to produces multiple surfaces for the sound to echo off us increasing your soundproofing.
Again, the longer the sound travels the weaker it gets, if you throw a rubber ball at a flat wall it will bounce off and continue going, but if the wall had say, wads of paper glued to it then threw the ball, the multiple angles of deflection would cause the ball to lose most of its momentum on its first strike and not travel as far.
Sorry, I really didn't mean to get so long winded.
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If it were me, I would use particle board (yuk) for the box. It's really dense and very effective as a sound deadener. That's why it is the go to material for speaker boxes. Also, remember that multiple layers are a must to deaden sound, with air space in between. Guy is correct when he recommends plexi as well. Acoustical windows are usually made like regular insulated windows except they use two different thicknesses of plexi or lexan for the panes. The different thicknesses are more effective because they break down different parts of the sound waves. Hope this made sense. I use particle board as an acoustical barrier simply because it is cheaper than plexi or lexan.
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How much of the noise is produced below the table and how much from above? You could try holding the sound deadening material around the bottom area and see how much difference it makes. That won't help the noise made by the exposed portion of the blade. Hanging heavy cloth or blankets from the ceiling around the saw will help that problem but I don't know how much. The cloth will help get rid of the high pitched noises which are the most annoying. Closing windows and doors will also help but it might be very hot inside for that where you live.
By the way, welcome to the forum.
By the way, welcome to the forum.
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John; Welcome! First question I'd be asking is 'why's it so noisy?'
Is it loud when you're actually cutting something, or just about as bad when it's running without cutting? What's generating the noise, or is it a combination of things?
If you box in the cabinet part, but it's actually the blade (sort of like a siren effect), will that have accomplished anything?
For starters, I'd be trying to determine what's generating the noise and looking at reduction by eliminating/modifying the sources. Try a different brand of blade for example. I use CMT and my particular blade is extremely quiet, even when cutting. My dust collector is far louder, and it's pretty quiet, all things considered.
Another thing you might try is a new belt, assuming it's belt driven. Vibration may be a factor as well.
Good luck!
Is it loud when you're actually cutting something, or just about as bad when it's running without cutting? What's generating the noise, or is it a combination of things?
If you box in the cabinet part, but it's actually the blade (sort of like a siren effect), will that have accomplished anything?
For starters, I'd be trying to determine what's generating the noise and looking at reduction by eliminating/modifying the sources. Try a different brand of blade for example. I use CMT and my particular blade is extremely quiet, even when cutting. My dust collector is far louder, and it's pretty quiet, all things considered.
Another thing you might try is a new belt, assuming it's belt driven. Vibration may be a factor as well.
Good luck!
My question would be, are you using the saw indoors or outdoors? If indoors, I would insulate the room first. That has provided enough sound dampening that I have never had any complaints about noise no matter what tools I run! If outdoors it will be hard to limit all sound from a circular saw. much of the noise comes from the blade, as was stated above. Also heat will be a consideration if the saw is confined in too small a box. A temporary fence covered with a blanket my block a lot of the noise if you are only concerned about 1 direction. Other than that, unless you are doing your cutting at 3AM in the morning and or all day every day, just informing your neighbors before hand may help!
Soundproofing box
I have plywood, acoustic absorption foam and plexiglass (only 1mm in thickness). I will follow your suggestion of enclosing the sides and the bottom of the bench and see how it goes. Your suggestion is very much appreciated.
I have plywood, acoustic absorption foam and plexiglass (only 1mm in thickness). I will follow your suggestion of enclosing the sides and the bottom of the bench and see how it goes. Your suggestion is very much appreciated.
I got plywood, foam and plexi (1mm). I will try to get some particle board too. Thank very much for your suggestion.
I don't know how much noise there is above and below the work bench but I would enclosed the work bench with plywood, acoustic foam and plexiglass and see how it goes. Thank for your suggestion.
The saw gives out high pitch noise once it is started, It became more noisy while cutting. I will enclosed the bench with soundproof material (plywood, foam and plexiglass and perhaps particle board if I could get it). Where could I get that type of blade your are using? I made contact with Makita (Hong Kong). They have a blue ray blade but is said not to have much noise reducing effect. I will shop for the type of 'quiet' blade that you are using. Thanks.
I will be working outdoor in the garden. I will try to enclose the workbench with soundproof material on hand and see how it goes. Thanks for your suggestion.
I have plywood, acoustic absorption foam and plexiglass (only 1mm in thickness). I will enclosed the sides and the bottom of the bench and see how it goes. Your suggestion is very much appreciated.
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John, in an effort to be somewhat more helpful than that last one of mine 
here's a really interesting online treatment of the subject...
IFA - Practical solutions: Low-noise blades on circular saws (BGI 5051)
here's a really interesting online treatment of the subject...
IFA - Practical solutions: Low-noise blades on circular saws (BGI 5051)
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16,385 Posts
IF you have enough of the plexi so that you could make a 4 sided box out of it and hang it over the saw so that you could work inside the box that might help. It might help reflect some of the sound straight up and down.
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+1 with Charles and Dan.
In a box- You really need to make sure it has enough air flow around the motor to keep it from overheating. In a box, you are closing off open airflow and adding sound deadening material, that also acts like insulation. You could think of a cabinet saw a being in a box of sorts, but it does have plenty of airflow to the right places.
I have an old Rockwell cabinet shop saw. Running- It is quiet as came be. Balanced and no vibration. Coins stay on edge during startup and running. Noise above the table is from the blades I use. Depending on the blade being used, they give a ringing sound during the cut, getting a louder ringing sound right after the release. If that ring is "off" or dead to me, I wonder about how "sound" the blade is.
Just saying. It might be worth you looking into Dan's link for low-noise blades.
In a box- You really need to make sure it has enough air flow around the motor to keep it from overheating. In a box, you are closing off open airflow and adding sound deadening material, that also acts like insulation. You could think of a cabinet saw a being in a box of sorts, but it does have plenty of airflow to the right places.
I have an old Rockwell cabinet shop saw. Running- It is quiet as came be. Balanced and no vibration. Coins stay on edge during startup and running. Noise above the table is from the blades I use. Depending on the blade being used, they give a ringing sound during the cut, getting a louder ringing sound right after the release. If that ring is "off" or dead to me, I wonder about how "sound" the blade is.
Just saying. It might be worth you looking into Dan's link for low-noise blades.
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John; I'm a little curious as to the availability of non-China made tools and equipment in HK?
Do you have large retail woodworking suppliers there?
Availability of Bosch? Makita? CMT? Forrest?
Maybe something like this?
Bosch PRO1040GP 10" x 40 TPI General Purpose Woodworking Blade | ToolBarn.com
(No personal experience with that particular blade, but I do like Bosch stuff)
Do you have large retail woodworking suppliers there?
Availability of Bosch? Makita? CMT? Forrest?
Maybe something like this?
Bosch PRO1040GP 10" x 40 TPI General Purpose Woodworking Blade | ToolBarn.com
(No personal experience with that particular blade, but I do like Bosch stuff)
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