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Discussion Starter #1
So far I hate it but maybe I am doing something wrong. I was routing some 3" circles with my CRB7 and I had a heck of a time getting the tape off the circle. I tried acetone, Mineral spirits, heat, and a scraper. I finally got it off but it was no fun. So have any of you guys used this stuff? If so what do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I forgot who but I was this being used for wood working on You Tube. Fast Cap also has a short video on their site and they are using it for template routing.
 

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Theo
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Haven't used that particular brand, but have tried double stick tape, rubber cement, what all. And didn't like any of them, mainly because of the time required to clean residue off my wood. And that's when I started tacking my pieces together. I drill pilot holes thru my masters, then use thin nails about 1 1/ 4" long (my masters are all 1" thick), tack the piece to be routed. Rout, pop the master loose, viola, got a piece routed. Yes, there are nail holes. No biggie, because I design almost all my stuff so the nail holes are inside, or otherwise hidden. On the very, very, rare occasion when the nail holes will be in view, no problem, I simply drill the pilot holes in a decorative pattern, and the nail holes are now part of the design. Been using nails for I don't know how many years, and I am very satisfied with the results.

And, if you think it's just a quick fix, well, it is, but it is also very accurate. There is a utube video out there somewhere of a old, professional, harp maker, the concert harp kind. And he nails his pattern down. I was doing it before then, but it was nice to know that I'm not the only one doing it. Some people use screws to hold their material, but I much prefer nailing.

OK, found the video. The nailing is at 3 min. He does a nice job of wiping excess glue too. lol I'm saving the video to watch again. And again. And again.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Theo I can't tack what I am routing. I am routing different size small circles. There is a 1/4" hole in the center so I am using my M Power CBR7 to rout out the circles.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Theo thanks for the video. They are some real wood workers. If you are a wood worker you will enjoy watching it.

I want a flush trim bit like his. WOW
 

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A fellow wood worker uses hot glue which he raves about. Template pops right off and no residue. He just dotted it on in strategic places. If any sticks, he heats it a little and rubs it off.
I used to use the tape you are using and it is the stickiest doubleback tape I have ever used , it sticks to everything and hard to get off. Like you I used every solvent known to man and still left a residoo doo.
I went to the tape that this guy on the router forum was selling and it is really good. Can't give you a source as I wiped out all my PM's today trying to save them to a folder.
It is really thin and holds very well comes off with no residue.

Herb
 

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Theo
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OK, looked up that thingy and saw how it works. Then saw what you're making. If I were making a base like that, there would be no hole in the center, and I'd put the nail holes on the bottom.

But I can't figure out where the tape comes in. Unless you're doing something the company video isn't showing.

In the hopefully near future I will be making at 6-7 sizes of circles, truck wheels, from just over 2 1/2" to probably just under 12". I've got one circle laid out on 1/4" graph paper. I will glue this to 1/2" plywood, drill the center, rough cut the largest circle, put a bolt thru the hole, then spin it with a drill, and use a hand belt sander to bring it down to the largest size. I'll drill pilot holes in that, tack it to a rough cut circle, rout the bottom circle. Then glue the bottom circle to another rough cut circle, rout that, which will give me a 1" thick perfectly round master, which will be drilled for pilot holes. Rough cut a circle, tack the master to it, rout, and a perfectly round work piece, turned to put the holes on the bottom.

Repeat through all the size circles (wheels) I will need.

Now, where's the tape come in?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Theo your right I could use nails but the 1/4" hole has got to be there because I use a 1/4" dowel to attach the base to the cross. Also I am locating the base in the same spot on the substrate (MDF) to help with tearout. I really don't know if I need to do that but that is my theory.
 

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A fellow wood worker uses hot glue which he raves about. Template pops right off and no residue. He just dotted it on in strategic places. If any sticks, he heats it a little and rubs it off.
I used to use the tape you are using and it is the stickiest doubleback tape I have ever used , it sticks to everything and hard to get off. Like you I used every solvent known to man and still left a residoo doo.
I went to the tape that this guy on the router forum was selling and it is really good. Can't give you a source as I wiped out all my PM's today trying to save them to a folder.
It is really thin and holds very well comes off with no residue.

Herb
Herb--I checked my old PM's, the member selling double stick tape on here was woodman79, don't recall seeing any posts from him in a while. I have to agree, much nicer than the Ace brand carpet tape I was using.
earl
 

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I use the double sided tape from Woodcraft. It is sold for lather turning use. It is thin and holds very well as long as there is no dust on the two pieces to be joined. As for clean-up, a quick wipe with mineral spirits does the trick. The MS will not harm the wood and it does a great job of removing the residual adhesive.

If it will hold for turning operations, then it should hold for template routing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I bought this carpet tape from the big "A". I am getting ready to use it today so if any one is interested I will let you know. For a lot of years I used Frost King carpet tape. I got such a good deal on it at a yard sale I bought all they had. That may have been 20 years ago and it never failed me.
 

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I've used double faced tape for years BUT it is a cloth backed tape and not the cheap (WalMart) type paper backed stuff. It is not cheap but works well. You should find it on the web sites dedicated to woodturning.
 

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I use Duck brand carpet tape. The one that looks like fiberglass patch mesh. It holds very well. Almost too well. Clean up is with Acetone soaked rag. No finishing problems.

Fast Cap is a great company. They've always been very helpful when I've called. I'll bet they can recommend product for removing their tape.
 

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Herb--I checked my old PM's, the member selling double stick tape on here was woodman79, don't recall seeing any posts from him in a while. I have to agree, much nicer than the Ace brand carpet tape I was using.
earl
Yeah that is the guy, He sent me a PM a couple of weeks ago asking if I needed some more, even if he is out, he might give you his source.
It has good holding power and no residue. It is only good for one time then have to put new on for the next cut.

The holding power is proportional to how much clamping you use, the more clamping the harder to get apart.

Herb
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I use Duck brand carpet tape. The one that looks like fiberglass patch mesh. It holds very well. Almost too well. Clean up is with Acetone soaked rag. No finishing problems.

Fast Cap is a great company. They've always been very helpful when I've called. I'll bet they can recommend product for removing their tape.
This is the tape I bought from the big "A" Amazon. It works really good and you can pull it off with your fingers. That is all you need is your fingers but I found you can use to much of it. Using to much just makes it harder to get it unstuck.

I did call Fast Cap today and the tape is what it is (very sticky) I told him I didn't think it was good for template routing or on wood where you need to remove it. I pointed out that they had a video on their site showing it being used for template routing. He said they would look into that video. He then offered me something for my trouble and I refused it. I didn't call them to get something free.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDICWM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Theo
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Arrgh, MDF. Hate that stuff. Used it once, neve more, nevermore. Yeah, dowel would need a hole. I'd just use glue blocks, front and back. But remember, just because I do something one way, does not mean I am trying to get you to do it that way. Anyway, looks nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Arrgh, MDF. Hate that stuff. Used it once, neve more, nevermore. Yeah, dowel would need a hole. I'd just use glue blocks, front and back. But remember, just because I do something one way, does not mean I am trying to get you to do it that way. Anyway, looks nice.
Yeah I know I hate MDF also but I am just using it as something to tape what I am routing to.
 
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