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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I built a small box and put splines in the mitered corners. Well, the splines are chipping out when I used a block plane to level the splines. The chip out is on the corners. I cut the walnut splines from a strip about 15" long and 1/8" thick and maybe 3/4" wide. I inserted the splines with the grain running from left to right. So how would I stop this so it won't happen again?

I was thinking about rounding the corners with a 1/8" bit to hide the chip out. What do you think about that?
 

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It must be a lot of chip out if sanding it round isn’t enough. We’re you going towards the corner and chipped that tip off? If so go from the out side in at every corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree I did plane in the wrong direction. I bet if I had used a chisel I would have been better off. Hindsight is always 20-20. :wink:
 

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I generally use a thin Japanese pull saw to trim off splines, then a little light sandpaper work to smooth it out. I often use 1/8th purpleheart just for the contrast. It's one of those saws with no set on the teeth, so it doesn't mess up the box sides. Just be patient and don't rush it. The saw has incredibly fine teeth and no stiffener, so if you push it, it will bend.
 

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As with the plane or chisel, the pull saw still needs to cut from the outside towards the inside to prevent chipping. For a part I was trying hard to get right, I put a layer of blue tape on either side of the spline, used a flush-cut pull saw to get it close and then used the Veritas Flush Plane Veritas® Flush Plane - Lee Valley Tools - you still need to cut from the outside in, and use a sideways shearing cut to prevent any chip out. I'm making a box for my wife at the moment, will post a final photo if it turns out OK - forgot to take process photos to this point and all I hae left is fitting the lid and drilling for the hinge pin..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just use a belt sander for any thing like that. I take off all excess with 60 grit which eats the wood away fast, then sand properly with 240
Not me Bob, in my hands a belt sander spells disaster. :frown:
 

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These shots show how I clean-up splines and box joints. When I mention "belt" sander, I refer to the linisher (disc/belt sander), not the sort that we have races with!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
These shots show how I clean-up splines and box joints. When I mention "belt" sander, I refer to the linisher (disc/belt sander), not the sort that we have races with!
(linisher) Harry, the word linisher is a new word for me and I had to look it up. I would like to have one if it had a variable speed motor. Nice looking boxes as always.
 

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Don, why do you think that a variable speed motor would be better than a fixed speed one?


Linishing
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected from Linisher)

Linish is an engineering term that refers to the process of using grinding or belt sanding techniques to improve the flatness of a surface. The flatness may be two-dimensional, i.e. with the view of achieving a flat plate, or one-dimensional, e.g. with the view of achieving a perfectly cylindrical shape. The machine that does this may be called a linisher or a linish grinder. The technique may also be used, with finer grades of grindstone or sanding belt, to polish a surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Don, why do you think that a variable speed motor would be better than a fixed speed one?


Linishing
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected from Linisher)

Linish is an engineering term that refers to the process of using grinding or belt sanding techniques to improve the flatness of a surface. The flatness may be two-dimensional, i.e. with the view of achieving a flat plate, or one-dimensional, e.g. with the view of achieving a perfectly cylindrical shape. The machine that does this may be called a linisher or a linish grinder. The technique may also be used, with finer grades of grindstone or sanding belt, to polish a surface.
Harry, a variable speed motor would slow down my screw up so I could see it better. >:)
 

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Harry, a variable speed motor would slow down my screw up so I could see it better. >:)
Don, I use an ROS on mine, and it seems to work fine. A belt sander would work too. I stay away from the benchtop as I always go too far, I prefer the hand held type. I have also used a sherp chisel and a block plane, but always seem to gow up a spot or two and have to sand it out, so just stuck to the ROS.
Herb
 

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Don, using the belt on a linisher makes it almost impossible to screw-up!!

The photos. show a few of the things that I use the linisher for.
 

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For this particular use, I do use sandpaper on a flat block. I just do better with hand sanding. As mentioned, I use the japanese saw but often have to do a little extra smoothing. I have switched from sandpaper to the new 3M flexible sanding medium, which seems to last longer and produce a better surface. Don't know if they have this for disk or drum sanders. This material also lasts far longer than paper. Flex it a little and the sawdust falls out. It also conforms to odd shapes better than paper backed material.
 

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Just a quick question for clarification since I will be using splines in the near future.. When you say plane outside-in it means from the corners where the boards meet towards the point where the spline ends because the fibers are supported by the face or end board.
 
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