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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the first time using splines for gluing up panels of 1x6 boards. The 3 panels are for the left side, right side and top of a nightstand. The pics show a piece of 1/4" poplar luan ready to be cut in 1" strips with the luans grain going in the opposite direction of the panels 1x6 boards grain. Several were cut. Next a stacked slot cutter bit slightly larger than the thickness of the luan was tighten in the collet and several test cuts were made until the slot was roughly in the middle of the board and when two slotted boards were pressed together the spline was able to be inserted with little wiggle room. Then the pre-cut boards that were labeled with painters tape were given arrows that pointed to the side or sides that were to get a routed slot. The left and right side panels were able to have the slot cut from end to end as the top and bottom would not show. The top panels slots were routed to an inch of both ends so that the slot and spline would not show. After dry fitting the panels were glued and clamped. This step either takes a while or I am a slow messy glue-up guy. Not too long after glue-up I noticed the panels bowed up in the middle some. I would guess that I should have also clamped the panel flat. I then did do that and will see how it came out after they dry.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Marco, I've never tried this but some people put clamps alternately under and over the work. All clamps on the same side may cause that problem. Clamping the joints down flat should work too. Another way is to clamp strips with a slight curve across your pieces.
Yeah I should have read up on it before I started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Too much clamp pressure will cause the bowing along with all the clamps on one side. Using some crawls will help stop this but I would look at the amount of pressure, locations, and joint fit up first.
I believe you are right Roland. The joints were tight but I kept on tightening. Live and learn or in my case remember next time.
 

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Looks like an agreaable way to join the boards but as Paul said having clamps under and over helps to keep the boards from bowing while clamped. I think if I were to use this process I'd have the splines just shy, feel no play, then glue them up. I don't want glue to be filling any gaps.
 

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Here you can see I've used small bar clamps . The difference is I can lower or heighten the clamps, the boards are 1.75 thick which allows me to put the clamps up high and low giving me better center to keep,the boards flat.

Technic takes awhile to grasp.. these boards will be used for a snap back shuffleboard.
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This is the first time using splines for gluing up panels of 1x6 boards. The 3 panels are for the left side, right side and top of a nightstand. The pics show a piece of 1/4" poplar luan ready to be cut in 1" strips with the luans grain going in the opposite direction of the panels 1x6 boards grain. Several were cut. Next a stacked slot cutter bit slightly larger than the thickness of the luan was tighten in the collet and several test cuts were made until the slot was roughly in the middle of the board and when two slotted boards were pressed together the spline was able to be inserted with little wiggle room. Then the pre-cut boards that were labeled with painters tape were given arrows that pointed to the side or sides that were to get a routed slot. The left and right side panels were able to have the slot cut from end to end as the top and bottom would not show. The top panels slots were routed to an inch of both ends so that the slot and spline would not show. After dry fitting the panels were glued and clamped. This step either takes a while or I am a slow messy glue-up guy. Not too long after glue-up I noticed the panels bowed up in the middle some. I would guess that I should have also clamped the panel flat. I then did do that and will see how it came out after they dry. View attachment 396798 View attachment 396799 View attachment 396800 View attachment 396801 View attachment 396802 View attachment 396803 View attachment 396804
I've never tried this, but I'm interested in it. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here you can see I've used small bar clamps . The difference is I can lower or heighten the clamps, the boards are 1.75 thick which allows me to put the clamps up high and low giving me better center to keep,the boards flat.

Technic takes awhile to grasp.. these boards will be used for a snap back shuffleboard.
So on that project you glue each side and when clamping if you saw the joint wasn't flat adjusted that particular clamp up or down to where the joint was flat, tightened then went to the next area to clamp?

Also curious to the method used in joining the end pieces.
 

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I have a lot of small walnut boards. I also have a lot of 8/4 walnut boards 8+ feet. I didn't want to waste the short 8/4 so I decided to make a flat 8/4 top. I took the boards to the tablesaw where I ran them 2" wide. I then took the boards to the planer and ran the boards 1 7/8 square. At this point I took the boards to the miter saw and squared all the ends.

From here I knew that my planer was only 13" wide and I needed a total of 32"to 33" in width so the boards glued came to 11 1/4 ×3 equalled 33 3/4 whether three slabs were glued together.

This is a complicated glue up. I have to align and put all the boards together and glue this at once. I used titebond glue anfpd you have your be fast. I made the planks 7-8 feet in length and put plastic underneath as I knew I would have to be fast on this glue up. In this case you would use a glue roller with a heavy film..

All glued boards have been planned, stacked and are awaiting assrmble. They have been sitting several years...
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had re-clamped the panels flat a few hours after glue up in hope of the panels flattening out. After 40 hours of drying time I unclamped the panels and they are much better. I can work with them now. Pics include the grain orientation of the panels and a left right and front pic of the panels loosely in place on the night stand. I'm going to do some sanding before final glue up and finish sanding once the night stand is dry.
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In the early 80's I worked with pine exclusively. Pine is very challenging, but makes nice projects at a reasonable cost.

Some of the typical problems you'll overcome with pine will be reflected in future projects. It's good knowledge

Your project is turning out most excellent...
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I hope to use some hard wood in 2021. I'm trying to avoid a $200 dollar small bonfire and if I can get the Pine Knot between my ears removed and plugged..... 🙉
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One step closer to completing the night stand. Earlier today I put a round over bit on the top side of the 4 sides of the stands top. To my surprise I did it right... the first time. Afterward sanded the front, sides and when not attached the top of the night stand down to 120 grit. I've got the top glued and hopefully tomorrow will go over everything including the drawer fronts with a light sand and with a little luck get the first coat of Satin Poly sprayed on it.

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