What type of finish Roger? I have sprayed lacquer and oil based but not water based because I didn't have a gun that would do water based. Lacquer is fairly easy and it dries within seconds. I've had to lay it on heavy enough to look wet because if I didn't it dried rough. That might be fixable but I wasn't interested in doing that. Oil is fairly easy too and because it dries slower will give a smoother finish usually.

Certainly sprayed on finishes look better when done right because of the lack of imperfections like brush marks and overlap marks. You can get pretty decent results with some finishes by hand. The worst results I've had were with finishes that dried too fast. There isn't enough time for the finish to pull itself flat. If the finish is slower drying and you use a really good brush or a foam brush in some cases you can get acceptable results.

What were you thinking of trying?

 

Roger spray finishes are very easy to do, the normal spray lacquer would be a nitrocellulose thinners based lacquer and they can be bough in various gloss's but the more shinny you get them then the more the imperfections will show, the more matt lacquers are always more forgiving, you can also use a sanding sealer under the lacquer and that will also help to get a good finish as it will cut back smooth far more easy than the lacquer itself will cut back but you could also thin the first coat to 50/50 and spray that as a thinner first coat will sand back better, of course you can also spray turps/oil lacquers, they will take far longer to dry so if you don't have a dust free space to spray them then that can be a problem, keeping the dust motes of it until it drys, thinners based lacquers dry much quicker, it is simple to build a home spray booth to put the object in when it gets sprayed, you can make a frame and cover it with any cloth, old sheets, they wont last for a long time but they will keep the dust off it while the lacquer dries, spray lacquer is easy to do and get used to doing so you won't have any problems, just dont lay it on stupidly as more material is not better, it just will casue runs that have to be dealt with. N

 

I have been using spray can lacquer with good results. I thought this might be an acceptable way to spray polyurethanes also. And, it seems that it would save me some money by buying quarts of finish, thinners, (which I have anyway), as compared to the high price of the spray cans.

 

Always wear a suitable mask to avoid any inhalation of spray particles.
Ensure adequate ventilation whilst spraying to avoid noxious fumes.
Wear gloves and cover exposed skin as much as possible.

On practical points ensure you have a practice run first so that the exact pressure and spray head setting is correct. Do lots of passes over material (ie keep the spray head moving) in as big a sweeps as possible to avoid runs and drag.

Cheers
Paul

 

Sorry Roger, I didn't notice the first time that "this" was a link. That system looks suitable for small scale projects. I don't know if it is cheaper as the can appears to be the propellant. I have no idea what kind of job it does. It does not appear to be adjustable which would mean you would have to adjust the viscosity until it sprays right unlike a good spray gun which would allow some adjustment range as well as giving different spray patterns.

The big issues with a paint gun system is the cost of the gun, the compressor, and cleaning it when you are done which often takes longer than the painting did. But they are more flexible and usually do a better job.

I remember seeing a relatively cheap HVLP system (high volume low pressure) discussed on the forum that was getting favourable reviews. You should be able to search and find it.

 

I just sprayed a project with Watco Semi Gloss lacquer from a spray can and when I dried it turned white. I mean white, white, not milky white.Ruined my project had to spend a day trying to strip it it all off with acetone and what a miserable job. Couldn't get it all off still shows some white in places. My first try at Watco Lacquer, I had always used Deft before with no problems.
Herb

 

Unless you want to paint with a color or finish you can not buy off the shelf I see no advantage

 

My thought was that if this unit sprayed 16oz. as stated, as compared to rattle cans containing 11.4oz. then, this might be a little more frugal.
Plus, I think it would offer me more choices as to what finishes I could use.
Just my thoughts.
I hoped someone had some experience with this product. So, if I do decide to go this direction, maybe I could write a review. I've read the reviews for this unit on Amazon but, I tend to believe most of those reviews come from people with some sort of agenda, or, in case of some I've read, are totally clueless.

 

came across this after looking into the product...

interesting

 

I've been using rattle can Watco gloss lacquer with good results.
What I was looking at was that a rattle can has 11.4 oz and the Preval says it will spray 16 oz. Using a lacquer of my choice, mixed with a retarder, could give better results than I'm now getting. Plus, I'd be able to use shellac, or other finishes as well. I thought possibly someone out there had tried this sprayer before and could share some thoughts.
Thanks for all the input guys.

 

Here is what I am talking about with the Watco Semi Gloss. And I shook the can up vigorously.

Herb

 

I used that setup a couple of times a few years ago. I wasn't impressed. In my experience rattle spray cans give better coverage.

 

Wow!! I have no idea about that. I use their gloss lacquer and if I want it less glossy, I rub it out with 0000 steel wool.
Have you sent these pics to Watco?? It seems as though they would know best about their product.

 

Reminds me a bit like the ghosting you'll find with Poly's...have you tried it on a previously unfinished surface?

 

Bill, this was a new chair seat I made for an old rocker, and I just stained it with General Mahogany oil stain and used this to seal it as the owner is going to paint it. I was just using up the lacquer because previously I sprayed it on my Hinge box project over sanding sealer and it turned white and it took me a day to strip it and try to save it.

As to contacting Watco, I had not thought to do that, I was just going back to Deft, they were out of Deft at the time so I picked up this stuff. I also bought a can of Gloss and it doesn't seem to do this.

I have never had this experience before.

Herb

 

Now, this is becoming rather interesting as far as lacquer goes. The only time I've run into something even remotely similar is when I've applied the lacquer too heavy. (I tend to do that ) What I ended up with was a very similar whitening of the finish. However, when left alone for a couple of days it cleared up. What I came to realize was that I was actually "trapping" moisture into the finish by applying it to heavily. As the lacquer skinned over it was preventing moisture (however little) from working its way out of the finish as it dried.
The interesting thing you got going on here are 1: the seemingly circular blemishes and 2: how the finish is working with the grain in the wood (last picture, back of seat). Were the issues with the box similar to this?

 

Yes it did the same thing with my box. Strange thing was that it goes on clear and when it drys it turns white. It is in the finish the only way to remove it is by removing the finish. I was thinking maybe, just maybe they put something in the lacquer to tone down the gloss and it must have settled out to the bottom of the can and when I shook it up it dislodged. Just a theory. It has the appearance of white powder. The box only had a shellac sanding sealer on it that was dry and I sanded the nubs smooth before I applied the lacquer.
I had to use acetone to remove the finish to refinish with poly.

Herb

 

Any chance that the lacquer was applied too soon? General claims that their finish requires 10-14 day to totally cure.

 

What Roger said! I always try to stick with the same brand thorough the whole finishing process. I'm paranoid about conflicts between different brands' products...and of course, the different brands won't take responsibility, each pointing the finger at the other.
Over the years I've pretty much settled on Mohawk products because of their concept of working with their clients, and building the user knowledge base.
Which of course doesn't help much with your current problem...

Wood & Leather Touch Up & Repair Products by Mohawk Finishing

 

Roger,

My experience is NOT with fine wood furniture or the likes. My limited experience is with the routed signs and other simple projects.

I like using either the Krylon Glossy spray acrylic or the Rustoleum 2X Glossy spray acrylic. I tried using the Helmsman Glossy External and applied it using a high quality brush with decent results. But in actuality I prefer the shaker cans.

I find about 5 coats is remarkably smooth and glossy. I allow the finish to be "touch dry" before adding the next coat......usually about 15 minutes between coatings. If I need to, I use "000000" steel wool to buff the finish, clean with an air gun and tack rag, then apply another coat. If I buff the finish, I buff the entire face.....not just a section.

Good luck.

 

The white in the finish is I think, 1) poss. solvent lock, caused by spraying too heavy and causing the outer part of the finish to dry faster then the inner portion. When that happens the solvent cannot escape causing tiny bubbles that will turn white and or 2) sometimes high humidity.

 

Thanks Al, must be #1 as the humidity was not high in either case. Think I will try Franks method next time I spray with a can,or go to Deft and see if the same results occur.

Herb

 

I think I must have had the same thing happen to me the other day and I was using Deft. My garage shop is air conditioned and I run a dehumidifer so I think I put it on to heavy.

Don