I am making cabinet doors for the kitchen and my first pair didn't come out quite right. I am using Blum hinges so there is a little room for adjustment however I want to only use those as a last resort. Is there certain jigs that you make or tools that you use to make sure the doors are square when glueing and clamping? These are shaker style doors.
farmernick
I made thirteen shaker style doors for my cabinets (first picture shows six of them), and I didn't use anything to square them up. Just made sure my cuts were squared, then used pocket holes screws to tighten them up. I don't remember if I ever put a square up against them, but I think I did, at least in the beginning. But they all look square enough on the cabinets! (second picture) ;o)
Attachments
Hi Nick,
First you need to make sure your parts are the same length before you try to glue them, height the same, width the same.
To see if the door is square measure across the diagonal from corner to corner. They should be the same measurement. if they are not then adjust your clamps until they match.
You can also check the angle between 2 sides to see if it is 90. Just remember 3,4,5.
Measure along the shortest side and mark a measurement that you can divide buy 3 equally. Say it is 12". 12/3 = 4. Now multiply the other 2 sides buy 4, you get 4x4 = 16, and 4x5 = 20. Measure along the other leg of the door and make a mark at 16". The measurement between the 2 points you marked should be 20" if the angle is 90 degrees. If it less than 20" then the angle is less than 90 degrees, if it is greater than 20" then the angle is larger than 90 degrees. 3,4,5 .... 6,8,10 .... 9,12,15 .... 12,16,20 .... does not have to be even but it helps with the math, it could be 7.5,10,12.5, just as long as the ratio is the same 3,4,5.
You can adjust your clamps to correct the angle.
Hope this helps,
First you need to make sure your parts are the same length before you try to glue them, height the same, width the same.
To see if the door is square measure across the diagonal from corner to corner. They should be the same measurement. if they are not then adjust your clamps until they match.
You can also check the angle between 2 sides to see if it is 90. Just remember 3,4,5.
Measure along the shortest side and mark a measurement that you can divide buy 3 equally. Say it is 12". 12/3 = 4. Now multiply the other 2 sides buy 4, you get 4x4 = 16, and 4x5 = 20. Measure along the other leg of the door and make a mark at 16". The measurement between the 2 points you marked should be 20" if the angle is 90 degrees. If it less than 20" then the angle is less than 90 degrees, if it is greater than 20" then the angle is larger than 90 degrees. 3,4,5 .... 6,8,10 .... 9,12,15 .... 12,16,20 .... does not have to be even but it helps with the math, it could be 7.5,10,12.5, just as long as the ratio is the same 3,4,5.
You can adjust your clamps to correct the angle.
Hope this helps,
Hi Nick.
As others said, the first thing is to make sure that your timber is flat and square. The slightest twist will cause the doors to lose alignment and not be square.
Your profile does not show what tools you have. The reason you have doors not "come out quite right", is the reason I have just purchased a jointer.
As others said, the first thing is to make sure that your timber is flat and square. The slightest twist will cause the doors to lose alignment and not be square.
Your profile does not show what tools you have. The reason you have doors not "come out quite right", is the reason I have just purchased a jointer.
Hi Nick, no one even mentioned a framing square and corner to corner measurements. I keep a framing square I know is accurate on the bench all the time, That and a dead flat workbench to check for warping. Blum hinges will always have to be adjusted, they are not all set exactly the same from the factory. MLCS has an excellent free door calculator on their website if you are coping and gluing the doors. I just checked the MLCS website it seems I cannot find the free download they are now charging for a CD. That just guarantees Whiteside a more loyal customer and MLCS goes to the bottom of my list!!!!! I have the old free version in Excel XLS format. I need to know from someone if I can post it.
Howdy from Texas Nick,
I make sure the parts are milled to equal lengths and on entry doors I do the corner to corner measurement then use a clamp from corner to corner to make it square. I have built out feed tables 4' x8' for my table saws and mounted Kreg tracks all the way around periphery. I make sure they are perfectly square when I bolt them up and use the stops to butt up against the rails and styles. I then use the vertical clamps from Kreg to hold them flat then clamp the edges. we can knock out a mess of doors and they are all perfect using this method. Something to think about.
-Eloy
I make sure the parts are milled to equal lengths and on entry doors I do the corner to corner measurement then use a clamp from corner to corner to make it square. I have built out feed tables 4' x8' for my table saws and mounted Kreg tracks all the way around periphery. I make sure they are perfectly square when I bolt them up and use the stops to butt up against the rails and styles. I then use the vertical clamps from Kreg to hold them flat then clamp the edges. we can knock out a mess of doors and they are all perfect using this method. Something to think about.
-Eloy
Welcome to the forum, Gerrie. Not sure what data you require.
Search for picture frames in Youtube.
How to Make a Picture Frame Clamping Device - YouTube
Search for picture frames in Youtube.
How to Make a Picture Frame Clamping Device - YouTube
I made a cheap assembly table from a 2'x4' MDF plywood and then used 1"x2" boards for a border on two sides. Used the framing square and the 3-4-5 method and made sure I had a nice square corner. Now when I assemble the doors I have one corner that is square and it also allows me to use the hammer to move the rails and stiles. If I could post pictures I would but I don't have enough posts yet.
After the cabinet doors are finished I am going to put new faces on the drawers however I have a few questions on what looks good.
The current drawer fronts are 5 1/2" wide. The cabinet doors that I made have the rails and stiles at 2 1/4" wide, which if I used the same measurements would only leave 1" for the shaker panel. Trying to picture in my head this would look weird. So I was thinking of making the drawer face a solid front but I want to dress it up a little by using a 45 degree chamfer bit. If I use that on the drawer faces should I also use that on the cabinet doors so it looks decent.
I hope I explained it enough for a clear picture.
The current drawer fronts are 5 1/2" wide. The cabinet doors that I made have the rails and stiles at 2 1/4" wide, which if I used the same measurements would only leave 1" for the shaker panel. Trying to picture in my head this would look weird. So I was thinking of making the drawer face a solid front but I want to dress it up a little by using a 45 degree chamfer bit. If I use that on the drawer faces should I also use that on the cabinet doors so it looks decent.
I hope I explained it enough for a clear picture.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
