Stack cutting

corners

Stick486 said:

outstanding...
can you elaborate on how you did the box corners???...

Click to expand...

Each of the 4 sides were cut on a scroll saw, with the light and dark woods stacked together. Each pair of sides was cut on both ends with that squiggly pattern, blade at 90 degrees. The walnut end cuts were combined with the poplar center piece; the poplar end cuts were combined with the walnut center piece. This resulted in two boxes instead of one. The original pattern that inspired this project (by Gary MacKay) only had one box, since the final end cuts were from small pieces and the original corners were discarded. Once the 4 sides were whole again, they were miter jointed together. Here's a close-up...

thanks..

what blade did you use to scroll w/???...

planing...
power or hand???...

when you gonna key and spline the miters???...

Potowner1 said:

Is there a pattern available for the corners? I am really into scrolling,and I would like to try this. Thanks for sharing.
Rick

Click to expand...

It's just a squiggle -- one can make any design that looks good. The attached pattern is what I used. Made 2 for each side stack (8 total), one at each end. Put clear self-adhering shelving plastic on the wood; covered the plastic and paper with rubber cement, attached the two; made sure the blade was at 90 degrees (else the walnut and poplar pieces would not fit together) and cut with a #5, 17 tpi, double teeth blade at a fairly slow speed. the boards in a stack were each ~3/8" to start with, then hand-planed to 1/4" after glue-up, to make sure the side was flat and square.
I'm new to scroll sawing (bought a saw in Feb), so I don't know if that was the best blade to use. It worked, though. If anyone has ideas on better blade choices, I would sure like to learn from you!

The lid inlays were also from ~3/8" boards, stacked. The table was angled to 4 degrees. It couldn't be at 90, since the image would fall through the background -- there would be a gap due to the blade thickness . At 4 degrees, the image nested into the background and was able to be glued up. That meant the image was co-planer with the background, but not even. To fix that, I planed each side until it was smooth -- down to 1/4" or so.

Hope this helps!