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Stain plus glue.

3.4K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  Everend  
#1 ·
Is it okay to stain a project then glue it together? Sure would make it easier. I will be using an oil based stain.
 
#3 ·
Awhile back I asked the company if Titebond II could be colored. The reply was, yes. Apparently about any dye can be used, including Rit. I use Titebond II for 99.99% of all my gluing, and even thin it for finishes on my canes and such. Haven't had anything I wanted to color/dye for awhile, so haven't tried it yet. I'll probably thin the glue first, and, of course, try it on scrap wood first.

An aside, I use acrylic latex paint on various projects. Thinned some down a few years ago, and it comes out like stain, all the wood grain shows, nice. Somehow a cane handle I'd 'stained' with some got lost outside my shop, and was out there, on the ground for over a year. When I found it, was still in great shape, red on one side, black on the other. Probably still got it out there, somewhere.

When I do get around to trying the colored Titebond I will likely use the latex paint to do it, then I can mix whatever custom color I like. I have found that I need black, dark green, dark blue, white, yellow, red, to be able to mix colors properly. No matter what they teach you in school, with just the primary colors, you are not going to get a proper green, blue, or whatever.
 
#4 ·
You don't want to stain where you need to glue. One's water based, the other oil. However, it's commonly done to avoid blotching where squeeze out got into the grain or where staining after assembly is very hard, such as inside corners. Follow Mike's advice if there is an area where stain might interfere with the glue bond.
 
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#5 ·
Did this for the last picture frame I made from cherry. Try to keep the stain off the glue surfaces and clean any squeeze out thoroughly. I add a spline or overlap additional wood to thicken the frame to hold the painting to strengthen the miters. I think green painter's tape would be a good idea to protect the surfaces you'll be gluing. But it would depend a lot on the type of project whether it is appropriate.
 
#6 ·
I went to a trade show this week and saw a new product. peel-tek.com I doubt anyone has thought to use it in this application but it would be perfect. Figure out your glue area and paint it with this peel off latex. Stain your work, then peel off the dried liquid masking before glue up.
I'm going to email them to see if they will give me a sample to test. I think they are based here in Austin TX.
 
#9 ·
I like the Peel-Tek product idea, but at $20 a quart plus shipping, I think I'll be sticking with the blue tape for a while. I have stained before gluing a few times by masking off the areas needing to be glued, but I usually don't do it this way. It's much easier to do the staining and finishing after assembly. A quart of Peel-Tek would likely dry up in the can before I ever used even half of it. I'm interested, but I'll wait for the rest of you to try it first.

Charley
 
#10 ·
Nothing new under the sun apparently. I used to buy a liquid frisket (back in the '80s I think) for masking off areas you didn't want paint on. My main use was on the small panes of wooden French doors, the ones with wood mullions.
Trouble was, it took as long to mask and clean up as it did to just scrape the glass afterwards without the frisket!
Frisket is basically rubber cement...no residue once you use a 'pickup' to remove it.
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-10304-Pik-Up-Rubber-Cement/dp/B0028D8FGI
 
#11 ·
i emailed them about smaller quantities. They said at present, a quart is the least you can get, but they plan to offer smaller quantities in the future, perhaps even squeeze tubes. I saw on their site that they claim it keeps after reclosing the container for 1 1/2 to 2 years. Maybe a bit optimistic.
 
#13 ·
@Everend I just ordered a pint of the masking stuff from Peel-tek.com. $20 for the bottle, $10 for shipping. Seems to me pre finishing (staining at least) frames will really improve the final product. I'll try it out soon and let you know how it works. Fresket was just rubber cement, don't know what this stuff is.
 
#14 ·
Cool, I have not received a response from the email I sent asking for local availability and opportunity for a sample.
The samples they had already applied at the show looked to me like a kind of latex. One that had higher self-sticking properties than stick-to-something-else properties.
 
#15 ·
#17 ·
We all want to know if something works well or doesn't so I don't mind seeing honest reviews where someone has tried the product and now has experience with it. What I don't want to see is someone who just pastes an ad from the manufacturer and calls that a review. That's what I consider "promoting". An honest review usually contains pros and cons and not just pros so you can usually tell one from the other.
 
#19 · (Edited)
No response from my email yet.

FASTCAP on the other hand has great customer service. I finally ordered some 2p-10 a few weeks ago. Others here call it CA glue. Wonderful product! Unfortunately, the bottle of accelerator that came in the kit leaked out because I left the sprits cap on when I put it away in the case. I sent them an email suggesting they find a better spray cap that can be stored on side or upside down (in the case) without leaking. She thanked me for the suggestion and asked for my address to send me a new bottle. I replied with my address and asked if I purchased a 12oz can, would they combine shipping. She responded that they would include that bottle too for my inconvenience.
I know they have treated others here well, here is just one more example of great customer service.


Also check out Ron Paulk's 'mail call' videos on YouTube. Fastcap sends him products to review and then gives him a $10 off coupon code to share. I've purchased four of the products he has reviewed.