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I am not satisfied with the stained finish I get on maple. I use a sealer (very dilute shellac) to eliminate blotchiness, but then it is very difficult to get any decent penetration of the stain that follows.
Any suggestions?
 

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I use maple a good bit and I have good luck staining it without any sealer.I sand it from 100 grit to 180 grit then I stain it with 2 coats of Old Master Stain ( penetrating stain).Brands of stain do make a differance.
 

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I'm bringing this oldie back to the top and hope others a year plus later might have a better feel for how maple can be successfully stained. I went through the attachments in Chris's post and am just about as confused as before. It's too late for my current project, a simple little table for my wife's laptop, and to be used along side of her chair. The maple I picked out had nice grain figuration, but they were pretty much washed out after applying 3 coat of Minwax Golden Oak as I have virtually always used and had always had decent luck - even with maple. I did use a water based product instead on a TV cabinet, but the drool down the side of the can have obiterated the product name. First of all, has Minwax to anyone's knowledge become, for no better word, weaker as far as color and penetration? Some really old cans of other Minwax color stains I have that are still good smell stronger and seemed to penetrate some scrap pieces of the same maple. I could drag out my spray gun and put some lacquer on the wood surface instead, I just don't care for the poor resistance to scratches on a piece of furniture nor do I have a good place to spray paint much of the year - too cold/too hot in the garage
 

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Hi Dave

View this video by Charles Neil. but remember he produces the pre stain.

Al
Thanks Al. I watched as much of that 23 minutes of Charles Neil as I could stand - he sounds/looks like a 2:00 AM infomercial:fie:. I dug further into the 'net to see if others had reviewed it and for the most part it got decent or better discussions but with the caveat from a few that it did cover some of the wood natural figuration. Since I do like working with maple, poplar and pine, the three woods most mentioned will probably give it a try next time. I just wish it was easier/less expensive to source then $19 plus shipping.
 

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i use the blotch control all the time, on maple you may have to stain a couple time's ? i use it on cherry , or on all the wood's , it work's very well , have used it sence it came out, i guess if you don't like his voice turn off sound, and watch a silent movie, that what it used to be, in the olden days'
 

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i use the blotch control all the time, on maple you may have to stain a couple time's ? i use it on cherry , or on all the wood's , it work's very well , have used it sence it came out, i guess if you don't like his voice turn off sound, and watch a silent movie, that what it used to be, in the olden days'
Del - thanks for your input.
As far as listening - yep, I did turn him off and watch it soundless after about 5 minutes. I guess what I really said above - it didn't need to take him 20 plus minutes to 'say' his piece. If I can locate some of his stuff without spending about as much for shipping as the material costs, will be giving it a try otherwise will be looking for a substitute product.
 

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(IMHO) I use sanding sealer on some things, but not on Maple. If I do, I also end up with problems with it not wanting to take any stain.

Some told me that If I did that again, that I should use a water or alcohol based dye stains. I have all these stains and have never really ventured into those yet...

What I do differently on Maple is just to use wood conditioner (like Benite), and then use stain, while it is still somewhat wet. It seems to help without completely sealing up the pores like sanding sealer does on that.

Of course there is always spray on stains and finishes...
 

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I finish/refinish all types of gunstocks in all types of wood. The method I use is sand to 240 or 320 then I use alcohol based stains. You can spray them or wipe them on, it may take several coats letting it dry for 4-10 min. before doing it again until the desired color is reached. This has worked for me for 30 plus years with spray on,wipe on and even oil finishes. Al
 
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