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Today's noob questons:

Making a rack for bits out of scrap. Results do not have to be perfect.

I want to round over the top edge of a piece of thick scrap wood. It's about 1.5 inches thick or so, probably cut off an 8 x 10 board. My fence-mounted featherboards don't rise high enough to clear it using the track mounting that came with the fence. Should I be doing this hand-held and not on the table? Should I clamp the featherboards manually? Should I make a pair with shorter "feathers"?:unsure:

Oh I just had an idea. What about turning it up on edge and feeding with top and front-to-back pushers? Is that not safe? Is that a table saw technique?

C
 

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Carol, I had the same problem on my new table/fence. So I added a board (I think 8 inch wide) to my fence, then I added a T-track about an inch, inch and a half from the top of the new board. Now I've got plenty room. The picture below was after the board, but before the t-track had arrived. I'll leave the "up on edge" idea to some of the more experienced routsmen! ;o)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/KaptainKajun/RouterTable5.jpg
 

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It should work either way unless the board is a lot taller than the fence. If you try and go handheld, you will probably have to keep moving clamps around out of the way. I don't normally worry about feather boards when rounding edges off as the only way the board can go is away from the bit, and fence if on a table. You can do it on a table without a fence with a bearing guided bit which is probably what you have. I do usually make a second pass just in case I didn't get it smooth on the 1st. Rounding over, especially with a bearing guided bit, is one of the most foolproof operations you can do with a router.
 

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Carol, since all you want to do is round over an edge the best way is to use a round over bit with a bearing on top and a safety starting pin. I think you would really benefit from the Router Workshop video's. They teach all the basics and some really neat tricks as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Good ideas

Thank you all. I just didn't want to do something idiotic.

Chuck, yes, the bit has a guide bearing. N-awlins, I will look into building a taller fence. I see a "universal t-track" from Rockler that is not expensive.
Universal T-Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

They also have a T-slot bit if I wanted to make a gazillion accessory guides. Maybe later.
Rockler T-Slot Cutter Router Bit - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Mike, I will look again at those videos. I am also planning to go to the NW Indiana Woodworkers Association meeting at the end of the month. It's only about 20 miles away.

C
 

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Featherboard

One of our members made this rolling feather board some time ago, and i thought it was such a good idea I copied and now use it all the time.

5584230585_dedea10ae7_m.jpg (19.6 KB)
 

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Hi carolinchicago

Here's just one more feather board that works great on the router table and the table saw..I use it on the router tables I have and the table saws..it lets the stock slide by but it will not let it go back...

http://www.routerforums.com/shop-safety/9874-ice-hold-downs.html

http://www.routerworkshop.com/featherbd.html

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Today's noob questons:

Making a rack for bits out of scrap. Results do not have to be perfect.

I want to round over the top edge of a piece of thick scrap wood. It's about 1.5 inches thick or so, probably cut off an 8 x 10 board. My fence-mounted featherboards don't rise high enough to clear it using the track mounting that came with the fence. Should I be doing this hand-held and not on the table? Should I clamp the featherboards manually? Should I make a pair with shorter "feathers"?:unsure:

Oh I just had an idea. What about turning it up on edge and feeding with top and front-to-back pushers? Is that not safe? Is that a table saw technique?

C
 

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Safety is a HUGE concern when running a router (any tool for that matter), however featherboards are there to hold the piece down, or to push the piece in towards a fence, so they could be replaced with any small 1x that is high enuf to get two clamps on, and long enuf to hold your piece down.
Many a time I have used "push sticks" or a "push pad" with foam or sandpaper attached to the bottom to get "traction", and they work well. But if you dont feel safe trying something, DONT DO IT.

john
 
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