That's what I would order, it works on paper.... test it on a scrap piece to get the depth set and you should be ready to flip and go with maybe some minor sanding.

 

Thank you. One more question. Is it safe to use a 1/2 shank 3/4” radius bit handheld routering in manner I described in my original post. The Whiteside website suggests not to use the bit hand routering. See screenshot. Thanks.

 

The only problem is that on the second pass, there will be no surface for the bearing to run against. So I suggest you do this on a table. Even a makeshift table will work fine. If you do the second pass freehand, it will dig in until the bearing touches something solid. So you will not get a clean roundover. A table and fence are required for this. The fence should align with the near side of the bearing. And you should plan on a little sanding even if you use a table.

 

there will be no surface for the bearing to run against. So I suggest you do this on a table.

I have limited experience. But I lucked out recently with a 3/4 thick wood and a 3/8” radius bit with bearing using handheld. Maybe I cut just short of full bit radius depth on each side and there was something for bit to ride on. I know I need a router table but I live in teenie tiny apartment.

 

What happens when you do this is that on the second pass, the bearing rides on the previously cut portion, and doesn't always give you a smooth transition. But usually, it's pretty easy to sand it smooth.
You could also get an 11/16" radius bit and leave a small flat spot in the center.

 

Imo, it's perfectly safe to do this by hand. I would run it at about 15,000 rpm, though.

 

Thank you so much everyone for your inputs.

 

Provided you can flip the treads over, you can do this without a router table. Ger’s is a good suggestion. The alternative is to use the router’s edge guide, which will bear on even a rounded edge. Probably a good idea to extend the edge guide with then wood strips, to minimize the tendency to dig in at the beginning or end of the second cut. To minimize setup, you would need to do all the treads on the upper surface first, then experiment to get the second cut just right.
If you do get a bit of digging in at the ends, do what Marco says: claim that it is a design feature.

 

The alternative is to use the router’s edge guide, which will bear on even a rounded edge. Probably a good idea to extend the edge guide with then wood strips, to minimize the tendency to dig in at the beginning or end of the second cut.

I have a nice RA1054 edge guide that came with my 1617. Never used it.
However, I’m having a difficult time visualizing how you would ever use the edge guide in such a way that the edge of the edge guide, rounded wood, and cutting surface of the bit would ever all align in the same plane to take such advantage of the edge guide’s large flat edge?
Edit: Anyhow, this 3/4” roundover bit has a diameter of appx 2 inches which is too large to fit inside the edge guides opening. I do see how a much smaller diameter roundover bit could fit inside the opening and work with the Bosch RA1054 Edge Guide.

 

BTW you can get a (expensive) adjustable double roundover bit, where the bearing is in the middle. Will also leave a flat strip along the middle of the tread, but this would also be a design feature. Makes both cuts in one pass, if your router and your wallet can handle it. The time and hassle saved may be worth the expense.
Not a real bullnose, but perhaps more durable for a stair tread.

Cats are variously skinnable.

 

That’s a nice edge guide. Thanks for sharing . I understand everything now: you would line up the edge of the router Edge Guide with the edge of the bearing on the roundover bit (on the final pass) 👍
Thanks for taking the time to share your information.

 

👍👍 You would apply pressure to either the leading wood strip or the trailing wood strip, at beginning or end of cut, to minimize dig-in.
Happy routing.
Let us know how you get on.

 

One other option for hand routing without digging in at each end would be to take some cutoffs and set them on each end of each step so that your router has something to keep the edge guide, or bearing bit, from biting the ends.

Tack a long strip of something that's straight to a flat surface wider than the steps, with room at each end to clamp down the extra pieces. Wedge them snug against the long piece and clamp them down so they don't get kicked away by the spinning bit. Any flat surface will do.

 

Received the bit today. My pre-visualization was correct to guess that the 3/4” inch round over bit is a teeny tiny too big for the Bosch edge guide opening in the aluminum.

 

Replace the plastic strips with thicker wooden ones. As you said, need to line up with the part of the bearing away from the router.

 

OK now I see what you guys are saying. That’s a good idea.
That’s a project for another day. Bosch was so close to designing perfect router Edge guide.

 

You will probably find that there is some EU directive about the maximum diameter of bit which can be used in a handheld router. The European brands have to follow the rules. I have the EU version of a Bosch 4100 table saw. The arbor is 30 mm diameter and less than 4 mm wide , restricting one to thin kerf blades and no dado blades, because the latter pose specific safety risks.

 

We used just the bearing no edge guide. Project complete. (After my buddy and I finished the steps, we were staring at the “really round” front lip and wondering if having a sharper lip on font edge of steps would be safer from a no slip / no fall standpoint. (like maybe a 1/4 round over‘)Anyways he was pleased with how project came out. 🤷‍♀️ The good part that came out of it, I convinced him to buy a 3M paint/particle respirator for both he and a hard worker who’s working on renovating his house.

Thanks again everyone!

 

Project complete. (After my buddy and I finished the steps, we were staring at the “really round” front lip and wondering if having a sharper lip on font edge of steps would be safer from a no slip / no fall standpoint. (like maybe a 1/4 round over‘)
Thanks again everyone!

It would be, I usually use 3/8" or 1/2" and it gives it a nice round over without slipping off it. I think code here in FL is max radius at 3/4" for that reason.
I recently made a handrail on 1.5" with the 3/4" round over by hand and was a little concerned about the 2nd pass but it did great with very little sanding, sometimes we tend to overthink things.

 

Yeah, just after my post I discovered we went over board with 3/4” radius. , so he’s going to flush cut a portion, or repurpose the wood. I just discovered CODE calls for maximum radius of 9/16”. (And this is in strict area in coastal So Cal. So he’s taking no chances an won’t be installing as cut). lesson learned.

 

Well, that caused me to actually look it up. FL bldg code is the same 9/16" radius max.

 

If you have enough nose you can rip 3/16" off and use a 1/2" bit on them and not have to buy new material.