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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, guys.

I want to improve my power tool kit by adding a thickness planer to my shop. I have been lurking at Lowe's, Menard, HF and the web, of course.
Before to make a decision I´d like to hear your opinions regarding this topic.Take into consideration that my job is for hobby purposes, until now.
A mid range of prices is considered. Brand new or used machines can be considered.
Thanking you in advanced for all your comming suggestions.
 

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Dewalt 735x. Best little planer I've owned.
 

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Theo
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Hi Alexis. No advice on planers. The one I have was a gift from a friend when he upgraded to a larger model. I've had it for years and still works fine.

However, if you don't find a planer, there is an option. Do a search using a search phrase of thickness sander plans, or something similar. You will find a bunch of plans on making them. Never used one myself, but from all reports they work, and quite well, and don't cost a fortune to make. Best I can come up with.
 

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A thicknesser is a great tool to have..... maybe once every 6 months.
At least thats what I find. I doubt if I use mine more than two or three times a year. Only if I have to buy very rough sawn planks.
But when you DO need it, it saves a lot of time. Yesterday i used mine on a plank of walnut that was so badly sawn I had to take 3 mm off each side just to see the grain and find the knot holes.
So you need to decide if you want to spend the money for something not used all that much.
One other thing to take note of, its far and away the loudest machine I have. It makes the table saw sound like an electric car going past. If you have neighbour noise problems, this will make it 10 times worse.
 

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I'm a 735 fan too. Pretty expensive. The lunch box planers are a decent alternative for the occasional user, but you want a 3 bladed one, not just two. For occasional use, HSS blades are fine. If you get a chip, you can move one blade slightly and it will go away. Just don't put knots through the darn thing. Some of those knots will damage the blades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Alexis. No advice on planers. The one I have was a gift from a friend when he upgraded to a larger model. I've had it for years and still works fine.

However, if you don't find a planer, there is an option. Do a search using a search phrase of thickness sander plans, or something similar. You will find a bunch of plans on making them. Never used one myself, but from all reports they work, and quite well, and don't cost a fortune to make. Best I can come up with.
To the recent past I have had no problems with the use of thickness planer but, recently the workshops near by my home have been closed due to the situation in my country.
Since i am here in USA I have had some conversations with the attendants at the above mentioned hardware stores. I knew that there are three DeWalt models for thickness planer (734, 735 and 735X) and I checked their pros and cons via internet. Mathias Wandel´s´comparission was helpful. I also checked other brands.
Now Theo suggested a DIY machine. This could represent a saving for S&H costs that I have not considered. This can also be an interesting project taking into consideration that I have two 3/4 hp motors at home.
 

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I'm in the Dewalt 735 camp too. The X gives you outfeed tables and a set of xtra blades.

I have a 2 hp Leeson motor here that has less than an hour of use on it.
 
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I'm in the Dewalt 735 camp too. The X gives you outfeed tables and a set of xtra blades.

I have a 2 hp Leeson motor here that has less than an hour of use on it.
Rockler has the 735X including mobile table on sale for $649 plus extra shipping charge of $50 for a total of $699.

Amazon has the 735X for $530 not including table. Table is another $170 for a total of $600.

In my 62 years of woodworking I've never owned a planer but want one badly!! If I order from Amazon, my wife will see the order, so I will likely have my daughter order for me.:wink:
 

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I also have the DeWalt 735 and I think it's the best portable planer on the market today. The 735X includes the in and out feed tables. I have owned 3 planers, and the previous 2 sniped very badly, so badly that the first and last 6-8" of the boards were 1/8-1/4" thinner. This is a terrible waste when planning an expensive board that is only 3' long. The DeWalt 735 does not snipe when it has the in and out feed tables, and they are adjusted correctly, and I have run pieces as short as 1' through it without problems. I can see a snipe line when planning soft woods, but it's so slight, mabe only a few thousandths, that a few swipes with 150 grit sandpaper witll make it invisible.

Planers make a lot of chips fast, and will fill up a dust collection system very quickly. I use my 735 outside my shop. It's attached to a Miter Saw/Planer Stand, that folds and moves like you would a hand truck, so I can store it with the planer attached to it, on end in my shop, taking only about 3 sq ft of floor space, but I can easily wheel it out into the driveway and lift the stand and planer into position very easily (it's a very heavy planer at 95 lbs). The stand that I have is a Delta, but DeWalt makes a similar and slightly better version of it. It is the DWX726 https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Miter-Wheels-DWX726-Yellow/dp/B0066N7C74

Because the planer is so heavy, this stand has proven to be the best way for me to move it in and out of my shop, as well as provide support for the planer when in use. Gas springs in the stand help when lifting or lowering the stand, so it's much easier for this old man to do. Because the mounting points of the 735 are not the same as those of a miter saw, I had to use a piece of plywood between the planer and stand with different hole patterns to adapt the planer to the stand, but this was quite easy to accomplish. I made it to fit the planer, and then just added holes to match the rail spacing of the stand. A few bolts and it was done.

With it's internal chip blower, the 735 does not need to be connected to a dust collector. I have the hose and barrel cover accessory originally offered by DeWalt, so I attach the barrel cover to a 55 gallon plastic barrel, and as long as the draw string on the cover stays tight, all of the chips and dust from the 735 end up in the barrel. This accessory is no longer available from DeWalt, but a very similar design is available under the Black & Decker name for use with a lawn and leaf vacuum https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER...CFD1KAFAP3G&psc=1&refRID=MDAH5FG1FCFD1KAFAP3G and I believe that it's the same thing as the one originally offered by DeWalt for use with the 735, but I haven't actually tried it.

When the cover doesn't stay on the barrel, I have sometimes had to clean the chips out of my neighbor's pool, which is located behind my shop. Lately, I have added some duct tape to better secure the cover, as I now no longer trust the draw string alone to keep the cover on the barrel. When doing serious amounts of planning, I can fill that barrel in about an hour. As long as they aren't black walnut or treated lumber, or some other wood that is dangerous to animals and plants, I use the chips as mulch in my gardens. The dangerous chips get bagged and put in my trash, to be picked up by the city.

Although a drum sander ,like @JOAT (Theo) posted, can be quite handy, it is not a good way of changing the thickness of boards, unless you only need to remove a few thousandths of an inch from the boards. It will take hours and lots of sandpaper to remove 1/4" of board thickness.

Charley
 

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I also have the DeWalt 735x Ken says *giggle* I just know it's DeWalt, and I like it. Also got the shelix blades to change over to when the originals that came with it dull out.

I disagree with the "once every six months" usage statement, but man, is that thing LOUD. I make sure the ear protectors are on when I use it, and recommend the same to others. I use mine quite a bit, but that's because I make a lot of signs on the cedar dog ear fencing, and they're rough cut. But I've also used it to fix errors on other wood, I run my signs through to get the excess ink off after painting the letters (no comments about dulling the blades; sanding takes too long, and this avoids sanding marks, especially since I can't use hand-held belt sanders. Ruined signs with those.) Also used it to make a piece of wood down to a desired thickness, of course, when I didn't have the right size. Investment was $900 USD including the shelix, but worth it.
 

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sanding takes too long, and this avoids sanding marks, especially since I can't use hand-held belt sanders. Ruined signs with those.)
That stuck in my mind. Actually I think if you made a jig to hold the belt sander, so you could slide it sideways over a piece of wood, it would work. Likely leave marks, but figure a few passes with a ROS would take care of that.
 

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I'm another vote for the 735. I can't think of anything bad to say about it. It is loud but you should always be using hearing protectors with any power equipment. I save my old blades to use on really nasty wood like old furniture I find at the curb. No need to remove the old finish just put it through the planer. If I'm removing paint I take the planer outside. I've been using a set of $13 dollar blades that I bought of Ebay last December and they are really decent blades.
 

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I only use my planer for cleaning up rough sawn lumber or reducing the thickness of material over 1/16" of an inch. Otherwise I use the drum sander for smoothing and finish sizing boards.
Herb
 

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I went ahead and purchased the DeWalt 735X from Rockler. It arrived last Thursday. Since I recently had cervical spine surgery, I had the UPS driver unload it in my detached shop where it will reside. It will likely be another 2 weeks before I can assemble the base to mount the planer. Can't wait to try it out on some beautiful Ash and Walnut I've had for years. :smile:
 

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This seems a good place to post some chip collection solutions I've found for the 735. Since it has such a powerful internal blower, it has clogged my DC unit pretty fast. These solutions are all about letting the air out of a container while keeping the chips inside. I think you could make this with any flat topped 55 gallon drum. Since there's so much air going into the drum, you could line it with a bag for easy disposal. I'd want a very large opening for air to exit so there's no back pressure to deal with. This would be a good project for this coming weekend. Sealing the top on tight would be important. Lots of bunji cords?
 

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